Your Pioneer 710HD has the classic cold solder joint problem endemic
to all of this series of Elite CRT RPTV. The power supply - PS -
board needs to be resoldered virtually completely. It's a time
consuming, tedious job that if you get wrong, who knows what could
happen when you turn it on again? So don't even think about
resoldering it if you are an amateur at the soldering process.
I do this job every day then run it out in my test 610HD - same
series - and then equip your board with a lifetime warranty on the
resoldering work I have done. Please contact me directly, google Mr
Bob and calibrations and Image Perfection. Unless you do resoldering
every day as a professional assembler or are an experienced repair
tech, I cannot in good conscience advise you to do this yourself.
Far too much is riding on it.
However, if you are highly experienced at soldering, resolder
everything but the heat sinks, the test points, and whatever has
already been resoldered and is still glossy and gleaming, like fresh
resoldering is. The solder used in the original assembly of that
board was far too thin, which results in these cold solder joints.
And don't do it part way! Many joints that are not bad now will be
soon, trust me, and if you have only resoldered just the ones that
are bad now - the early ones to go out - and continue to use it, you
make your board that much more susceptible to the far more dangerous
ones that happen later on, which can damage boards downline from the
power supply board.
I am the only repair person I know of offering a lifetime warranty.
Even Pioneer does not do that. In fact I have permanently corrected
many rebuilt Pioneer boards when they've gone out later. Pix are
available at www.avsforum.com
In your case chances are you have not heeded the warning signs of
cold solder joints: intermittent ops, blue flashes, fluctuations in
the brightness of your pic and other instabilities.
In the case where one of these units turns on then turns off again -
LED in front goes green, then immediately back to red before a
picture has a chance to appear - it's "going into protection".
Chances are something downline has now been damaged because of the
instability of the PS board, which is responsible for powering up the
What I would recommend if it's "gone too far" and the unit will not
stay on anymore, is a troubleshooting session with me on the phone,
which is something I require before allowing a PS board to be sent to
me for resoldering if the set's not staying on. Luckily, these sets
were designed with on board diagnostics that can be read by
technicians from far away.
If it goes green then stays green but no pic appears - even graphics
like the Menu - then one of the cold solder joints that powers up the
section that powers up your picture has opened up and is now staying
open. This has always been remedied 100% by the resoldering process.
If it powers up correctly upon turnon from dead cold, DON'T PUSH IT!
If it still has intemittencies, it's in a very precarious, dangerous
condition. Many sets have been run past their warning signs, and by
the time I get notified and can lend a hand, they are considered
totalled and are abandoned. Don't let that happen to you. RUN IT
FOR NO MORE THAN 40 SECONDS, and power it down again and unplug it.
DO NOT ALLOW IT UP TO NORMAL OPERATING TEMP AGAIN - EVEN ONCE - UNTIL
If it turns on from dead cold and works properly even tho
intermittencies have happened in the past, this is the best case
scenario. It means it can be resoldered properly and you'll be home
free. Or sent to me for resoldering if you are not a highly
experienced repair tech or assembler, in which case you'll get my
lifetime warranty on the resoldering work.
Mr [email protected]