Husqvarna Riding Lawn Mower 42 Inch Cut Yth2042 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity and spelling of the maker. Question moved to maker category. check out the video https://www.google.com/search?q=husqvarna+riding+mower+reattach+mower+deck+lift+torsion+spring ..

i keep mine on a float charger or even 1 year later it fails do not leave battery just sit or it sulphates bad. you mean the starter motor is dead, and no carburetors do not stop dead stater motors. head lamps must work first. shows the battery may be good and the engine starter used 10x more current that lamps. load test the battery ,see it is BAD. abused the fail every year. abused. (lead/acid class all do that) chargers lie to you , making you think one is smart, no they are not. (unless I designed one)<grin. (a(built in smart load tester) load testing is poof of the pudding. on car and anything on earth with batteries.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to category. check out the videos https://www.google.com/search?q=husqvarna+yth2042+replace+clutch+springs ..

It is made by AYP, how about you use google, find their website, purchase or download an illustrated parts breakdown and manual for it. This way you learn to help yourself. You are asking someone else to do for you what you can easily do for yourself. Hand a man a fish or teach a man to fish.

This msnusl might give you some help. http://lawnandgarden.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/yard_machines/yard_machines_lawn_mower_product_list.html

Manuals and Downloads Then put in your model number

You may have timing problems or if this happens during shut down, the fuel shut off solenoid could be bad. Try to throttle down before shut off.

Usually there is only one main 20 amp fuse. It is normally located on the dash. Follow the red wire from the battery and you will find it.

Make sure the belt keepers are as close to the pulleys as possible. Make sure you are using the correct belt, too long can allow the belt to jump off.

It is just pushed on, the pinch bolt has probably compressed the sides makinf very tight to remove.

What size motor and edge is Husqvarna YTH170? What is the price reasonable?

Assuming the tensioner pulley is good and the associated spring is still stiff then the belt has simply stretched with time and use and should be replaced.

Hi Mary: The drive belt will possibly have slipped off a pulley. With the engine OFF, look between the cutting deck and the underside of the machine. Check the position of the belt as you have a helper move the engage/dis-engage lever back and forth. Reply as a COMMENT to this post if you need more assistance. Cheers

you have something hooked up wrong,they should not be near the spindles,is it on backwards?, http www searspartsdirect com model part yth2042 3199 1509200 p0804135...

Tracking down fuel problems.

1. Make sure there is plenty of fresh fuel in tank. High Octane less than one month old. Water in the fuel system will often cause hard starting, low power, backfiring, surging or stalling
2. Is there a cut off valve at the gas tank? If so check that it is open or working if it is electric.
3. This step comes from repeated personal experience with JD gas tanks. Remove fuel line from filter and remove the filter, gas should pour out of the hose coming from the tank. (look at the filter before removing it, it should look at least 1/2 full of fuel.) If gas does not pour out remove gas tank cap. If fuel flows now, you need to unclog the cap vent or replace the cap. The vent is that tinnnny little hole in the center of the cap. If the fuel still does not flow then blow air from the filter end of the hose back up through fuel line to blow out any blockage inside the gas tank. Do your self a favor, leave the gas cap off and turn the outlet air on your compressor down below 20 psi. If the tank is nearly full you will blow gas out of the tank. Do this outside if possible; at the very least you need a well ventilated area. After blowing air from the air filter back to the tank, you may have to reverse the process and pressurize the tank to get the fuel started. I place my hand over the open tank and hold the air hose between the joint of my thumb and forefinger to seal the tank, and then squeeze the trigger. Once you have a good fuel flow out the line to the filter, put on a FRESH FILTER. Try cranking the engine. If it still does not start move on to the fuel pump and carburetor
4. Check the fuel pump. The fuel pump system on the twin Koehler and the Twin Briggs (and others) are almost identical. Watch this excellent, eight minute, video to learn how to check the fuel system, including the pump, up to the carburetor. . Small Engine Repair Checking Vacuum Fuel Pump Fuel System on Kohler Twin...
5. Note: My engine was starting hard and dying in the field this year (March 2015). While doing a valve adjustment, I found a hairline crack in the bend of the vacuum hose powering the fuel pump. It's the short hose running from the valve cover to the fuel pump. The fuel pump will not work if this hose is cracked.
6. Many systems have a fuel shut off solenoid. This is a small cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor. It has two wires running to it. It should make an audible click when you turn the key on. If it does not click you will have to replace it or track down an electrical problem.
7. If this has not solved the problem you may have to remove and disassemble, clean, or rebuild the carburetor at this point. You may have water, dried fuel (varnish) or trash in the carburetor bowl. Before removing and disassembling the carburetor try draining the bowl. Or, take the bowl off, careful not to drop the small parts inside. Clean the bowl and replace. I often remove the bowl on small engines and save the hassle of a complete carb removal.

NOTE: Connect a volt meter across the two battery posts. If battery voltage drops below 9 volts when cranking or while the engine is running, the fuel cut off solenoid will not function. That means the engine will not start or will die soon after starting. So check your battery voltage before, during, and after cranking. If the battery voltage is good before but drops below 9 volts while cranking this is generally a sign the battery has one or more bad cells. Replace the battery. If the battery is in fact good, and the voltage is still dropping, you may have a bad starter motor which is drawing too much amperage. If you find this fuel checkup does not solve the problem, repost your question with updated info and I will walk you through the next step. Tracking down a spark problem; yes, your problem could involve the coil. (Not as likely as fuel) Small Engine Repair Checking Vacuum Fuel Pump Fuel System on Kohler Twin...

your transmission is failing, it does not get any better. they cost as much new as a whole new mower.

First off, riding mowers do not "go into gear"; nor can they be shifted into or out of gear...nor, as a matter of fact are they "automatic" or do they have "automatic" transmissions. Instead, the so-called hydrostatic "transmission" is nothing more than the sense one gets--encouraged by mfr/seller misdirection (or product ignorance)--that a mower works just like a car...rather than being powered by nothing more than a belt that turns a wee little hydraulic motor, the speed and direction of which is controlled by the foot pedal controlling volume of fluid coursing though it to hydraulically drive the drive wheels. If your rider will not move, that means one of two things (other than fatal failure mode)...or rather two of one thing, the latter being that hydraulic fluid it not flowing, is not pumping freely, through that motor. Reason 1 (the more likely) is that the manual-mower-push switch on the motor has been engaged to permit the mower to be pushed without the vehicle (drive wheels) being blocked...because the engine is not running, so the fluid cannot flow with the turning of the drive wheels (unless the switch is engaged). Think of it this way. When the mower is running and the clutched engine PTO is driving the belt or shaft that drives the hydraulic motor, the direction is chosen by reversing direction of fluid flow that the motor is circulating under pressure (also called pumping) to the drive wheels. Push toe and it flows and drives wheels in the mower-forward-drive direction; push heel and it flows the other way. Now, what about when neither is pushed? Then, essentially, all channels of flow are blocked--"neutral" (if you want to think of it that way) is not freewheeling (as with a car), it is drive wheel blocked by hydraulic lock at the motor. That is why a "hydo..." equipped mower does not coast as does a car. Alternatively, suppose that you could lift up and try to rotate the drive wheels in a particular direction. You would find that the wheels resist turning (unlike rotating RWD car drive wheels to remove a drive shaft, for example)...because they are essentially hydraulically locked by the motor that is not allowing compensatory fluid circulation in any direction! Now, to disable the manual push mode that allows the drive wheels to rotate for manual pushing, look under the mower at the drive motor. It will be at the end of the belt loop or shaft being driven at the PTO beneath the engine. Now, find some kind of protruding lever big enough to grasp. If it seems "up" push it down; if "down" push it up...just make it go the other way to release. Now, start up and drive the mower normally. But wait! Before you mow, read the below. Reason number 2 for unexpected drive wheel drive failure is absence of fluid to drive them....because you have not check fluid level and maintained it as the instructions directed you to do. So find the fluid plenum/level-check container and add some fluid if it is low. Just a little. Then start the engine and check lever with motor running. Fill carefully to indicated level but be very careful not to over fill. The mower should now run with valuable maintenance lesson learned. And remember that neglected fluid check can greatly shorten hydraulic motor life. Oh, make sure to check fluid level again when finished....after any air has been purged...add if/as necessary.

Two possibilities to look for.1. The linkage may have lost a connecting pin. Follow active rods from pedal to control arm on transmission. 2. There is a disengage rod to allow the machine to be pushed without the engine running. If this is in the disengaged position the transmission will not drive. Look at the rear and low down for a lever or rod which is connected to the transmission.

U could try to use some starting fluid spray into carb and have someone crank it right away But first do you have fresh gas in the tractor if not I would drain and fill tank with fresh gas. Also I always change my spark plugs at the beginning of the season,