20 Most Recent Hayward 1 12 Hp Super Swimming Pool Pump Sp2610x15 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Probably the bearings ... If there is a motor repair place near you, talk to them about replacing the bearings for you.

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You probably have to unclog the line by disassembling and removing the obstruction. If the suction line comes from the skimmer or bottom of the pool and the discharge line goes from the pump to the pool return, the flow only goes one way regardless of the filter settings, remember, the pump always pulls and pushes water in the same direction.
Gary

PUMP HOUSING LEAKS.. 3 THINGS COME TO MIND.# 1 IS THE SHAFT SEAL #2 IS THE TANK GASKET IS BAD, OR THE DREADED TANK BODY IS CRACKED. NOT UNCOMMON FOR THESE PUMPS. TAKE PUMP APART (MOTOR OFF) LET SIT AND DRY A LITTLE AND YOU WILL NEED TO LOOK CLOSE AND THE CRACKS STICK OUT BETTER WHEN SLIGHTLY DRY. IF IT IS CRACKED, THERE IS NO FIXING IT WITH GLUE. IT MUST BE REPLACED. IF IT COMES TO THAT POINT , I WOULD RECOMMEND A STA RITE DURA GLASS . 1 HP. THE SUPER PUMP YOU HAVE IS NOT THAT EFFICIENT. THEREFORE I RECOMMEND THE SR 1 HP. IT WILL SAVE YOU ON POWER ALSO , HEY YOU .. REMEMBER TO PRIME THE PUMP AFTER ANY PUMP REPAIR !!!... JAY FLORIDA

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Something is causing the pump motor to overheat and shut off to avoid permanent failure.

The motor is likely failing. It may be a small part such as the bearings, capacitor or the starting switch, but could also be more severe such as the winding itself. You will also want to examine the shaft to see if it is damaged, bent, or the bearings failing or seized. If you are not familiar with testing these parts your best bet would be a local electric motor repair shop to see if the motor can be repaired or if it would need to be replaced. *All of this assumes this is an older/existing installation that has worked properly in the past and is just now showing signs of failure. If this is a new install look at your line voltage versus the voltage the motor is set to accept. If feeding 115 to a motor wired to be on 230 you will also get the situation you describe.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowmotor.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

No prime = either impeller problem, air leak, or blockage on output(bad filter or bad valve) My first choice is dirty filter. Second choice is impeller. Both easy to check.
If you have checked those than you probably have an air leak. Hold a very slow running hose over all pipe joints running into filter, while motor is running. Most likely place is the screw in fitting on front of pump. The water from hose will temporarily seal leak and it should prime.

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Removing the impeller requires you lock the shaft as you turn the impeller off counter-clockwise. You will also need to check for an impeller screw in the center of the impeller inlet. If a screw is present they are usually left hand thread. Back out the screw first, then proceed to remove the impeller.

To lock the impeller you will have to remove the motor end cover or a cap covering the shaft end depending on which version your particular motor has. Look at the end opposite the pump and imagine a shaft from one end to the other right in the center.

Once you remove the cover you will see a slot for a screwdriver, a flat for a wrench, a hex hole for a hex key or some combination of these. Lock the shaft and spin off the impeller. Some are so tight you will end up breaking them in the process. Simply replace it and the seal. Be sure the motor shaft is in good enough condition to allow the new seal to work properly. If too much shaft material has rotted away the new seal will leak soon after it is installed; you would need a new motor at that point.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

Can't get your swimming pool pump to prime up and begin proper circulation? If your pump basket is not filling with water completely, then you have air getting into the system and it is not working properly. Usually this can happen when you open your pool for the swim season especially if you winterized your pool.
Make sure you unplugged any of the lines you may have closed off for the winter. If you can, have someone block off the intake while you add to the basket, when it will take no more, cap and turn it on.Have the person keep the end blocked for a couple seconds then remove once the pump it at full speed(2-3 sec). If this doesn't work, your probably have going air through the cap, get an o-ring.The o-ring needs to be replaced.------- Click this link for more help:--- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/05/swimming-pool-pump-priming.html ----------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

It is a bearing spring designed to keep the shaft tight against the PE endbell so the impeller sits in the pump properly. It is suposed to be wavy and it sits in the endbell on the opposite drive end.

John

Your line leads go on the L1 and L2 terminals in the rear of the motor. It will not matter which wire is on which terminal as long as you seperate them with only one wire on either terminal.

John

All pumps need to be primed. The Self-Priming pumps still require water in the basket.
If water is not staying in the plumbing system when it is turned off, then you have a leak in one of the o-rings or the shaft seal.

Replacing motor bearings is not a quick repair done by most homeowners. If you feel up to the task, the basic process is as follows... First, you need to completely remove the motor from pump. This includes removing the impeller, and seal plate. Once the motor is completely removed from the pump you need to fully disassemble the motor. When disassembling, make sure you note the exact location of all components so they can be reassembled in the proper order. Pay close attention to the wiring of the windings, start switch, centrifugal switch, thermal overload switch, start and/or run capacitors, and the dual voltage change plug if there is one. Also pay careful attention to the bearing assembly where the number and types of small rings, washers, etc. varies between models. Use an external ring pliers to remove snap rings which are used to secure some bearings. Use a bearing puller to remove bearings. (Don't reuse a bearing which has been removed from the shaft). Remove miscellaneous small parts (washers, etc.) from shaft after bearings are removed. Be sure to replace in proper order. It is important to press only on the bearing inner race. The bearing will be damaged if the outer race surface is used for pressing. Place one end of the shaft on a wood block. Place the bearing and other parts as used over the other end of the shaft. Tap the bearing into place using the proper size tube and a mallet, or use a press. Repeat for the other shaft end. Hope this helps. If you need further assistance post a reply in the comments, and don't hesitate to leave a good thumb rating if you found this helpful. Thanks, and good Luck!

You forgot to replace the most important part...The" shaft seal".It is behind the impeller. Be sure to remove all the pieces of the old seal off the impeller ,(they always come off in pieces) and put silicone on the rubber part that sets in the pump housing. Make sure you keep the white porcelain surface perfectly clean, and you will also need to replace the ribbon gasket again.

HF Flame present with gas valve "OFF" error If flame is sensed with the gas valve off the control will go into lockout. The blower will run until error condition is corrected. When corrected, control will run blower for 5 s then automatically restart after 2 minutes. the error might be caused by a faulty flame sensor. i have heard of this happening the other way (carbon blocks sensor causing no ignite)

All electric motors run hot and pool pumps are no different. But how hot is too hot for a pool pump? The first test is simply whether you can touch the motor or not. Under normal operating conditions, the motor end of the pump is hot enough that you can barely touch it - but not searing hot.Best to you.https://www.google.com/search?q=XtremepowerUS+2HP+In-Ground+Swimming+Pool+Pump+Variable+Speed+running+temp&newwindow=1&sxsrf=AB5stBhpriuNhnfXLYYTg7tuS-LWwW262g%3A1690815381903&source=hp&ei=lcvHZKH_NOHi9AOquJjADw&iflsig=AD69kcEAAAAAZMfZpVdAAi94QXZiwKfN3nArsWv-Gm1z&ved=0ahUKEwjhnd6RmrmAAxVhMX0KHSocBvgQ4dUDCAo&uact=5&oq=XtremepowerUS+2HP+In-Ground+Swimming+Pool+Pump+Variable+Speed+running+temp&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IkpYdHJlbWVwb3dlclVTIDJIUCBJbi1Hcm91bmQgU3dpbW1pbmcgUG9vbCBQdW1wIFZhcmlhYmxlIFNwZWVkIHJ1bm5pbmcgdGVtcEgAUABYAHAAeACQAQCYAQCgAQCqAQC4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQE&sclient=gws-wiz#kpvalbx=_sMvHZMuPJPez0PEP3M2LgAY_44

Testing the water pressure of your Hayward gas heater is a relatively simple process. Follow these steps to check if your water pressure is working properly:

1. Turn off the Gas Heater: Before performing any tests, make sure the gas heater is turned off to avoid any potential accidents or injuries.
2. Check the Pressure Gauge: Locate the pressure gauge on your Hayward gas heater. It is usually located on the front panel of the unit or near the plumbing connections.
3. Observe the Pressure Reading: The pressure gauge will display the current water pressure. It is typically measured in pounds per square inch (psi). The optimal water pressure for most pool heaters is usually between 15 psi to 25 psi, but it's essential to check your heater's manual for the specific recommended pressure range.
4. Turn on the Pool Pump: Ensure that the pool pump is running, as it is responsible for circulating the water through the heater. The water pressure will be at its most accurate when the pool pump is operating normally.
5. Monitor the Pressure: While the pool pump is running, observe the pressure gauge to see if the water pressure falls within the recommended range. If the pressure is below the minimum recommended level, it may indicate a circulation issue or a problem with the pool pump.
6. Check for Leaks: While testing the water pressure, inspect the heater and the surrounding plumbing connections for any signs of leaks. Leaks can lead to reduced water pressure and affect the heater's performance.

The code you are referring to is actually IF, not 1F. It stands for ignition failure. If the control exceeds the maximum number of ignition retries or recycles the heater will shut down and go into lockout. Automatic reset is 60 minutes.

Question edited for a lot more clarity Question moved from Cars and Trucks. The pump appears to be made by Hayward, yours just has a Century badge on it. The fan doesn't appear to be a replaceable part, so try Hayward direct. https://www.google.com/search?q=maxflo+vs+500+parts ..