20 Most Recent Husqvarna 22 hp 42" Yard Tractor YTH22V42 Questions & Answers

Could be your battery shorted install known good battery, make sure key off. Install positive cable then slap negative cable to negative post if no spark then install. Sit on tractor and try to start as usual if you have problems starter circuit probably starter bad. If not try engaging blades if problem, pto wire grounded or clutch winding bad. If everything OK then shorted battery.

Easy as. Seach google for: Husqvarna YTH22V42 Manual and scroll to drive belt. Remove the clutch and follow the diagram.

Can you be more specific with what you are trying to achieve?

You can kill the engine with the PTO clutch on and then turn the PTO off before trying to restart because the PTO will auto disengage when the engine switch is turned off. The engine should not start if the PTO switch is on.

Been looking the parts diagram, it shows 1 line on the tank. Need to replace line.

Hi Mark It depends which type of clip you have??? If you look at it and you can see 2 slots that are visible above the axle a little bit just use 2 small bladed screwdrivers and pry it up at the same time with both screwdrivers. If it is a (cir) clip type you will need the spreader type pin pliers. Hope this helps JIM

This may sound stupid but don't mean it to... Have you tried with the choke all the way open? Do you have an automatic cruise? Is the right (correct) pedal being pushed in? These will affect if it starts or not. Also if your drive belt or one of the other belts not being tight enough will affect if it starts or just turns over. Not too many things can stope it from starting with new/good battery AND if its getting gas. Try cleaning your gas line and obviously making sure there is no obstruction around or near your blade, if it does start with blade engaged that is :)) If it doesn't start with blade engaged, well make sure it's in neutral. Mine won't start in reverse but will in forward or neutral. Hope it helps. Anthony

If it's a JD rideon make sure you have pushed the lever back in all the way!

This procedure should be performed with the deck removed. Removal of the PTO clutch and engine pulley should be step one. The crank bolt is 5/8ths. Be sure to unplug the clutch before you remove the bolt. Plug is at hole in chasis on right side rear of engine compartment. Lock brake. Drop the clutch and engine pulley, remove belt from engine pulley then from transaxle pulley. Remove belt from idler pulleys. Istallation is reverse of removal. Be sure the PTO clutch is seated in its retainer ( a bracket that comes down from the chassis and fits into a notch on the PTO clutch. This keeps the clutch from spinning around when engaged. It will rip the wires out if not secured properly). If you bent any belt guides to get the belt off without removing the engine pulley be sure to bend them back.

Hi, remove the battery and battery tray and clean all grass and debris from the hydro housing and cooling fins, regards Phil.

they are taped to the harness and most below the battery or fuel tank what ever way its set up

Hi
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
Take a picture for later reassembly.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
Then follow the procedure below:
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Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly.
If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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You have a belt adjustment problem, or a broken belt. Look at the area where the belts are, you will probably see problem immediately. Good Luck

Please see page 21 of your owner's manual. Husqvarna manuals are some of the best I have seen.

http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO2010_USen/HUSO2010_USen__532436505.pdf

• Sounds like you may have a couple issues.
• First you need to remove the spark plug.
• You want to check the flywheel key first.

1. This is easy enough to do. You really just drop the blade and on the end of the shaft is a key.
2. Get one the same size at your local hardware store for a $2usd maybe.
3. This is my first thought with the blade not spinning.

• The clicking sounds like a classic case of a bad solenoid.

1. Lift up the engine cowling.
2. Go to the rear of the engine.
3. The solenoid should be in view.
4. Try tapping it with a rubber mallet.
5. You can try to jump start the solenoid by turning the key on. Make sure someone is sitting in on the mower to be safe.
6. Take a jumper cable and using only one side of the cable jump the pos to the neg on the solenoid. If the starter engages then replace that solenoid.

Regards, Tony

that would be 8 hours. the hour meter measures engine run time. so if it is just started and setting in one spot, it will count on the meter. if you are sure the engine has not run anywhere near 8 hours then there could be a problem with your meter and you should contact your dealer for replacement.

Page 4 of your manual states: With Filter 64 ounces
Without Filter 60 ounces

http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2010/HOUS2010_532436505.pdf