20 Most Recent Pentax ME Super 35mm SLR Camera - Page 4 Questions & Answers


Is there a way to fix an autowinder on my Pentax

Yes. You need to find a working example of either a Winder ME or a Winder MEII. The former has 1.5 frames per second and the latter runs to 2.5 fps but a well-maintained ME Super will be fine with either of them and a battered and heavily used example will be less stressed by the earlier version.
10/7/2009 9:48:26 AM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Oct 07, 2009

Pentax me super can not advance the film advance

if the re-wind button is not stuck in, then the tab on the advance shaft is broken off. this small piece of metal will jamb the gears eventually.
take or send your camera to a repair shop for a cost estimate before repair as there are no new parts available for this model .
9/25/2009 7:11:05 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Sep 25, 2009

I haven't used my camera for 10 years. The light

Hello...Just to warn you...you might have a fistful of problems there but I'm going to have you check a few things FIRST!! Before you try anything with new batteries, check the contacts inside the little battery chamber...look for any discoloration(might indicate some corrosion goin on). Use a pencil eraser to gently but firmly rub the contact clean. Next, put the shutter selector in the "b" position in order to manually dry-fire the unit at least 50 to 100 times without the lens attached. Cameras DO NOT like to sit idle--grease stiffens, oil evaporates or becomes thicker, springs "form" to their rest positions, etc. You need to work that camera and hopefully things will still operate--namely some electro-mechanical switches inside! Besides the meter not operating, does the shutter hold any of the slower speeds--1/60 thru 1 sec? These are battery functions--the whole metering system controls a couple of tiny magnets to give you the speeds. I can assure you of one thing--you're going to have to have the camera cleaned and adjusted(called an "overhaul") because the springs that operate the shutter have worn due to age and need to be adjusted.The two sections of shutter blades need to move inside a narrow range of speed so the actual shutter speeds will be accurate. Also, be SURE to check the lens glass CAREFULLY under a bright light--when cameras and lenses are put away for long periods, an insidious fungus just loves to attach itself to the *inside* of tasty, high quality glass elements causing weird, spider-web lines and spots. These will almost certainly cause blurred spots or shadows in pix. Additionally, check the diaphragm blades *carefully* for a wet-looking substance around the edges. That's grease that has migrated from the focusing barrel, down the metal surfaces, and stuck to the thin, metal blades. Check the movement by turning the F-stop ring on the lens--make sure the blades move very freely. DON'T FORCE THE RING if it feels slightly "gummy"--The F-stop ring should move freely and have "sharp" stops at each of the F positions. If you force things, you could easily damage the blades internally. Hope I helped you get things "motivated"<grin>. Good luck!---Rick
9/22/2009 3:43:42 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Sep 22, 2009

Is my ME Super toast?

It doesn't need batteries to shoot. You can use it on manual without batteries, but the exposure meter won't work (if you know what you're doing you can go by). But the stuck mirror should be fixed. It could be just plain dirty/rusty/bent etc.
The advance lever might be gone since it won't 'click'. A professional shop can fix it, but the one you tried doesn't sound very professional...
8/18/2009 9:19:48 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Aug 18, 2009

Shutter will not work

Batteries empty? Film not advanced? Curtain dirty?
8/18/2009 8:35:03 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Aug 18, 2009

Film won't advance

Pentax ME Super was one of my favorite camera, small and clean shutter release. But it has been about 25 years since it was manufactured. They happen to use rubber break within shutter unit and as any rubbers, it started to deteriorate and melt between the shutter-blades. This prevents the complete cycle of the shutter and jams the winding. You may be able to unjam the winding but eventually you have to overhaul the shutter unit. Overhaul charge is around $100 in US repair market. -James
4/25/2009 2:39:46 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Apr 25, 2009

How to replace back ''door'' on Pentax ME super

No, you won't. Open the back and look at the hinge of the film door. There is a small screw near the top that sticks out. push it down with your finger to release the upper door pin. Your light leak is likely coming from that area too. A bad seal on the hinge is the usual suspect.
3/25/2009 8:52:14 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Mar 25, 2009

The film advance lever on my ricoh kr-5 broke

plenty of these cameras are on ebay sold for parts
3/7/2009 5:42:10 AM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Mar 07, 2009

Pentax ME Super: Mirror sticks in DOWN Position

The shutter & mirror is in need of a CLA. Clean, Lube & Ajustment. Its well needed for any camera when they are 20 years old and older
3/7/2009 5:29:38 AM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Mar 07, 2009

Battery cover/cap


the me super uses alkaline LR 44 batteries ( 2 ). the battery cover is no longer available , however some camera repair shops may sell you a good used one.
3/2/2009 3:08:37 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Mar 02, 2009

Loading/ Unloading the Film


open the film door and charge the shutter. are the drive and take up sprockets turning? if they are then the film was not loaded properly. be sure to push enough film leader into the take up spool bars.
if the spools are not turning then a gear or spring ( advance lever return lock ) is broken.
there are no new parts for the ME Super however some camera repair shops have good used parts that can be used. get an estimate first.
3/2/2009 2:56:03 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Mar 02, 2009

EF warning light blinking in top left corner of viewfinder.


this means that your camera is set for the " exposure factor ". just turn the knob back to 1x under the re-wind knob.
2/22/2009 12:53:44 AM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Feb 22, 2009

I have the mirror box lever problem in a spotmatic

Ok, the problem may well be the mirror charge latch. This is very commonly the cause of failure to wind or fire. The catch will be out of sync with the charging lever etc and so the mirror springs will not stay tensioned.

If it is, the cammera will be stuck with the shutter charged (Cocked) but will not fire because the mirror has not been properly primed. (The shutter is actually fired by the mirror. The shutter button actually releases the mirror.)

The locking arm keeps the main mirror spring tensioned until the closing shutter blind has fully closed. The blind roller engages with a gear which releases the

Remove the bottom cover. There is a long lever shiny arm engaging a crank-pin on winder gear extending to a point just below camera-right of the lens mount. It pivots on a large screw, and there is a largish wire spring which extends to engage a small hole in the end of a lever near the arm end, that dissapears into the camera.

The lever with the hole in it is the mirror charging arm, the long shiny lever pushes this towards the front of the camera to tension the mirror springs, when the film advance is operated.

Next to this is a shorter arm which extends over a gear at one end and is free at the other. This is the latch. The gear wheel engages a small pinion which is in fact the end of the blind roller for the closing curtain/blind. A peg on this gear strikes the other end of the latch to move it out the way and release the mirror tension after the shutter has finished, and this in trun resets the mirror, and releases the winder.

When the mirror is charged the mirror charging arm is held in the tensioned position by the 'free' end of the latch. If the shutter is ready to fire the charging arm should be pressing against the free end. If it isn't the camera will not fire.

To fix this it is easier if the shutter is fired. To do this first remove the large screw holding the long arm. Not forgetting the spring! There is a washer which must be removed too. Do not lose this it is important. This gets it out of the way. now push the charging arm towards camera front as far as it will go. You won't get it all the way, as the latch will be in the way, just as far as you can. If it isn't in the way, then this is not your problem!

Holding it in this position, press the shutter release. This should fire the shutter. If it does not fire then you may also have to remove the latch to allow you to push the arm forwards a little more. (In fact if you can hold the arm in the primed position you could replace the catch in the primed position. This is awkward though!)

When the shutter has fired the latch should move to the 'reset' position, allowing the charging arm to be pushed past it's end. If this is OK, you need to push the lever back to the reset postion. The mirror will remain in the up postion until you do this.

Now you can replace the long arm, again not forgetting the spring. The screw that holds that on has a shoulder, that the spring loops around, and the washer has a flat spot in the hole which means it has to be fitted in the right position. The end of the spring should poke through the mirror arm hole. The easiest way to reassemble this is to put the arm in, then fit the washer. Now place the spring loosely in position, and then put the screw in place loosley. This allows you to manuver the end of the sprion into the hole, You can then carefully tighten the screww. The washer has a tendency to become dislodged so you might have to try this a couple of times. (A blob of grease here can help keep the washer in place.)

If that's all OK then you should be able to wind and fire. If everything seems fine, check the screws are firm (Don't overtighten any!) and replace the bottom cover.

This is a very common fault, and is often caused by jarring the camera just at the wrong monent, but it can develop in an old camera (and they all are!) just due to wear. The latch has in fact changed in shape several times in the lifteime of this mechanism (and it was still in use in K1000's in 1997!) and is the mst common single cause of jams in these cameras.

A little lubrication can help. A spot of lighter fluid can be used to remove old oil and grease from the winder gear, the cocking arm pivot, anf the latch pivot. A tiny amount of grease can be applied to the slow moving pivots and contact points only. A tiny drop of watch oil can be used on the latch pivot. and the opeating peg, but no oil must get into the axle or teeth of the gear itself. This can cause uneven and erratic running of the curtain.

2/5/2009 10:45:07 AM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Feb 05, 2009

My Pentax me Super won't load the film, why?

You must push the film leader in between the pins.

Some find it easier if they push the leader in first, and then draw the film cassette across the back and drop in into the cassete chamber. (Obvioulsy the rewind shaft remains withdrawn while you do this.)

If you press the film back lightly over the sprockets you can be sure they are propery engaged while you do this. Once the casette is in position you can push the rewind knob in. (A quick twiddle will ensure that the crank dog engages.) At this point you can operate the winder crank partially to ensure the film is properly engaged with the take up shaft before closing the back. Then proceed as per the manaul.

This sounds a bit more compicated then the instructions in the manual, but Pentax operatiin manuals have a reputation for obscurity!

One advantage of doing it this way is that you only use as much header as absolutey necesary. A lot of films have quite generous headers and this will get an extra frame or two out of the roll.

Also when rewinding, stop rewinding as soon as the header disengages. This leaves the film 'tail out'.

This is useful in two ways;

First it is easier to remove the film for processing. Often a device called a 'film picker' has to be used to pull the header back-out. This can scratch the first three or four inches of film, which might lose the first frame taken. Also if it does not succeed, the film cassette may beed to be broken open, which also risks scratching.

Second, the slot that the film emerges from may not always be light tight. Leaving a bit of film in the slot helps keep the cassette light tight.

(Note some types of special film use a backing which is unsually clear. These should not be left tail out, as the backing might conduct more light into the cassette. These are unusual films, (In fact I only know of one film where this is true!) so you will know if you are using one, and the instructions will make a big point about special loading an unloading precautions. So leave the tail out unless the instruction for the film say otherwise!)

A tip here is to keep an eye on the film run indicator. (the window on the back showing the red/black stripes.) This pattern moves from side when the film is fully engaged. It is operated by the upper section of the wind shaft. (Above the white pins.) This is turned by the top edge of the film, to when the tail of the fim header only is engaged it does not move. (Confirm this by rolling the upper end of the take-up shaft with the tip of your finger. You will see the run indicator waggle.)

This is intended to confirm that the film is properly engaged, you can't go by the frame counter. (On other cameras I have carried on shooting unaware that the film was not engaged, until the counter had shown 36 frames for five shots. You lose some good pictures that way!)

When rewinding this will stop moving as soon as the 'tail' is reached, telling you that the useful part of the film has been wound back. Another turn on the rewind crank will draw the first part of the film back into the cassette and you can then open the back.

Another handy tip is to crease the end of the tail over when you remove the cassette. This marks the film as exposed, and incidentally makes it impossible to wind the tail in my mistake.

Alchemic Photography

PS: About pentax user manual in general.....

I think they were translated from Japanese by somone who's first language was neither Japanese nor English as a first language, after being written by somone whose main job was not technical writing, and then checked for grammar by an english language expert who's skill-set did not include photography.

This is a common problem. Often the cause is due to the 'spare man' effect. Ie the factory owner asks his factory manager who the best person to describe how to use the product for the manual writer. The factory manager, (who has production targets as his primary goal) then asks himself who he can spare from production work, and recommends the least productive dope on his staff. This is the 'spare man'. The manaul then gets written based on the opinions of the biggest dope in the fatory!

Even the latest manuals for their digitals are written this way. So in case anyone who has got a Pentax DSLR, the answer to the most common question is... "Yes you can use Pentax M series lenses on your camera. Just select the option to allow it in the menu.". (The manual says you can't at the beginning, and then when discussing th emenu options it tells you how to set the camera up to do just that. What is even more baffling is that once set it does not affect the use of any other lenses. In other words there is no reason for the menu option at all!)
1/25/2009 11:03:15 AM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Jan 25, 2009

Pentax ME Super Shutter and Rapid Wind Button won't release

Common fault due to perished rubber parts. Can be usually be repaired, but do not try to force the camera, that may cause damage which can not.

Go to http:/www.mypentax.com for information on how to service this yourself. The author can also advise by mail, and can service these cameras too.
1/23/2009 10:14:36 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Jan 23, 2009

Pentax ME super dirty mirror

Don't even think about cleaning the mirror in your SLR. For smudges and marks that can't be blown away with a handheld blower, you really need to have it cleaned by a repair shop. Most technicians clean mirrors with a special viscous fluid specially formulated to protect the fragile surface of the mirrors. Definitely do not attempt it with a standard lens cleaning solution or cloth as you could cause irreparable damage.

Keep in mind that this will not require disassembly of the camera, so the charge should be nominal
1/23/2009 10:08:45 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Jan 23, 2009

Shutter stuck

Have you tried taking a picture on either the 125X or B mode?

If you are able to take a picture on the 125X or B mode, then it probably isn't the mechanical part of the camera, but the electronics. If so, try putting some fresh batteries in the camera.

If neither if these work, then the camera might be past its prime.

Take care & Happing Imaging!

1/23/2009 9:41:22 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Jan 23, 2009

Sticking shutter/unable to advance film

Probably. That camera has several rubber bumpers and gaskets in the mirror mechanism that have a tendency to turn into sticky gooey sludge causing the levers in the shutter and mirror mechanisms to get sluggish. The only real solution is to completely disassemble the camera to clean out the old goop and replace them with newer neoprene fittings. My suggestion would be to find a replacement body since the repair is probably going to cost between $80 to $90 and you can probebly find a good used body for less than that.

1/23/2009 9:31:27 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Jan 23, 2009

Pentax A3000 frame advance jammed

There could be a number of causes.

First make sure that the replacement batteries are up to it. Ie one's marketed for camera use. Others often cannot supply the current required by the motors. (Electric motors require most current just as they start, and so it may not do anthyhing at all.) Then check the battery contacts are clean. Much the same reason applies, dirty contacts cam prevent the batteries from supplying enough current.

One more simple possibility is that it does not know the battery door is closed. This may be detected by a protrusion in the film door edge operating a contact in the loctaing groove, or contacts in the door latch. There may be more than one!

It is also possible that the camera is detecting an impossible film. DX coded film uses the contacts inside the film chamber to read the film speed from unpainted sections of the film cassette. It is just possible that a dirty contact or a scratch in the paint is telling the camera that the film is a speed it cannot handle, or is just confusing it with a nonesense code!

Outside these there are a number of possibilites which will require internal investigation. You can try these camera repair pages for tips on repairing your own camera.

1/23/2009 12:55:56 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Jan 23, 2009

Camer not working

Right here on Fixya :) Go to the fixya homepage. and look for the box that says "repair service" - simply enter your ZIP code and you're off.
1/21/2009 4:04:46 PM • Pentax ME Super... • Answered on Jan 21, 2009
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