20 Most Recent John Deere Gx75 Rx75 Srx75 Sx75 130 9hp Starter - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Take off the fuel bowl off the bottom of the carb and clean it out and make sure the fuel jet in the bolt that holds the bowl on is clean. You can blow it out with air or take a fine wire and make sure all dirt is out. Put it back together making sure the gasket is in its proper place and it likely will run. A lot of times its just the fuel jet that is plugged.

The two wire connnector has fallen off of the neutral start safety switch. This keeps the machine from starting while in gear. Go online or to a dealership and get a pic of the NSS switch location,it a bear to reconnect so clean the wire connector well first; with an open connection like this, the electrical system to the starter is effectively dead.

The mower deck is 100% manually controlled with the yellow control handle. The linkage may be out of adjustment a lot, especially if new belts are now broken in. When engaged, the blade drive belt should be quite taunt,but not like a banjo string. Adjustment is easy and can be found on the operators manual.

An RX75 bucking as you describe is usually caused buy one of several things. #1 make sure brake pedal returns to disengaged position.Check the brake linkage and add or change a spring as needed. Check for debris clogging the brake pad assembly too. #2 the speed control linkage roller cam attachment bolt has loosened over time. To correct, drive unit foward in 5th gear and stop with clutch pedal while on level ground. Kill the engine.Lift seat and find on left side the black rod with a funny U cut into it at the end. Its below the red throttle handle. There is a roller cam which rides in the U cut. Looosen the bolt holding the roller cam, let it find its own new position ( maybe just a couple mm ) and re-tighten bolt again. (One side of the U cut cam controls your speed in foward, the other side, while in reverse. Hope this helps.

First, check the obvious. Check your battery. Next, if you have a multimeter, turn your multimeter to continuity setting (where you hear a beep when two ends touch). Then with multimeter, check all safety switches, push in and let out with probes of meter on leads of switch, you will hear meter beep as you push switch in and out. If all switches are good, test keyswitch with test light. You should have power at back of terminal that red wire leads to on your keyswitch. Next, take test light and touch to small single post on solenoid(not large red leads). Turn key over and observe light. If test light comes on all is good and you need a new solenoid. You can find a lot along the way. This process will narrow down your search. Remember, brake pedals and seat switches will need to be depressed to test solenoid or no power will be going to post. Goodluck! I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/layne_0fccff498c319c32

It sounds like the spider gears inside transaxle is worn or broken causing noise and causing reverse not to work.