Miller Trailblazer 302 Welder Generator 907217 907216 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check your machines fuses. For location of fuses look into your owner's manual.

FUEL PUMP ? FUEL FILTER, GAS CAP NOT VENTING, ENURCHIA VALVE.

Both sets of the 120? If both of those are there (all 4 outlets), then the machine is producing 220v. So get a flashlight and look into the holes on the 220 receptacle, or check the wires on the backside of the receptacle. All that 220 is, is two 120 volts out of phase.

www.millerwelds.com have the serial number handy. Click on service, then owners manuals and follow the directions.

turn up the amps

Replace coil. Check power to coil first with a test light. If there's power, then coil is bad or the problem is under the distributor cap. Could be air gap has moved wider or the rotor tip is dirty. Clean it and try again. It's rare the air gap will move. Could be some rust on the rotor from condensation. clean it all. Try it. still no run, replace the coil.

Check the governor unit. Miller is a good make, shouldn't be a problem downloading a manual.

The oil is used as a cooling system, therefore if you ran a machinery without expect to overheat, dismantle your welder and check which parts have melted, repare or replace them and make sure there is enough oil at all time

Make sure your both selector click ( AMPS range and then CURRENT) Good luck .Patrick

check fuel lines and filter maybe float stuck in carb

check gas line and filter maybe float stuck in carb

If it is only momentary, it may be sand in the contactor- blow unit clean or as best you can and "tent" some poly plastic over the contactor with duct tape to seal it to cabinet. Use the heavier 6 mil stuff or fabrcate a cover from phenolic sheet or fishboard (flame proof material looks and feels like cereal box cardboard)- old circuit boards from derilect equipment, etc also can work, the idea is to dust proof the contactors- the heavy one especially.. Check to make sure it does not melt either as it will get exrra warm there. They were made for a metal shop not a desert. No offense intended.Also check to make sure the circuit breakers CB1 and CB4 are sound- they can fatigue fail and/or wire connections work loose and become intermittent under load.. Also cycle the switches a few times to clear the crud. If you have LPS1 available- it can help clean the contacts and dries without residue. Also check the trigger switch and replace it if you can find no other obvious faults with an ohm meter. If not, the microswitch might come apart to clean up the contacts. It "might" even be interchangeable with.derilect mcrowave interlock switches- which would need to be sealed with silicone out there. If you do not have the manual for it from Miller, you can download it from their website http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php?modelthen just scroll down to the flavor of 302 you have. Engine controls are the only real difference between the three modelsLesser possibilities are an issue witht he current sense coil- PLG-6 attaches there- also check that connection. They would be wires 141, 142, 143, 144 They go to the main board.Also check RC-12-1 and RC-12-3 these will be on the PC-2 board- they are the voltage sense wires and they go to switch 1. Also check SR-1 the rectifiers- make sure they are not loose or have faulty soldering- this can drop out the voltage too.

Blow cabinet clean of dust and check connections in cabinet and handle. first, Then check the wires to the step up solenoid and make sure they have sound connections and that solenoid is mounted securely. If you do much outside at night, have someone watch with the cabinet open and see where it sparks when the engine drops speed. Int he dark, even small sparks you would not see inthe daytime or the shop apper reasonably well.

if u want to use grinding machine, take power from auxillary source, it should be in machine,single phase supply. remote and grinder power do not have anything with this problem.

have you had the cables tested,welding weares them out.how old are they a welder is like a big old coil or armature the contact points on it gets corroded causing it to work harder causing your bog

Hi:

Probably your machines just overloaded; the engine will run and produce voltage but no weld output. Check your fuses F1 and F2, if they are open replace them.
Both fuses are located at left hand side of machine, open it and you will find them on the bracket.

Good Luck.

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i have the same machine, had same problem, changed broken springs on carburator and choke, problem gone. air gas ( authorized service tec. showed me how)

Check the coil and connections to the 24 volt contactor.

Check the circuit breakers, one may have tripped or failed, such as CB4 which would also impact generator voltage output and since it controls power to the 24 control system- the first one to check or service. If you can access the rear terminals, check the voltage in operation at both lugs- if you do not get the same voltage reading at each lug of CB4 measuring them one at a time to chassis ground, the breaker is tripped or faulty .CB1 is inline with the 240 VAC outlet and is ahead of CB2 and CB3CB2 and CB3 are inline with the 120VAC outletsIn each case, switch them off then back on.If you have the GFCI option, it may have been tripped by unsafe conditions.

Switch S1 may be dirty or damaged. The field should not need flashing as that will occur when you engage the start button.It is possible there are some faulty connections in the 24 volt control section. Loose or corroded 24 volt connections to the contactor may not be allowing adequate current to flow. The connections on the SR 1 board should be checked as well. Also check the rectifiers. THey should be moderately high in resistance with test leads held one way on the rectifier, then with leads reversed, the resistance should be at a minimum 10 times different than the first reading either greater or lesser. Use a decent DMM to test them.