20 Most Recent Yamaha RX-V795 Receiver Questions & Answers

For my YAMAHA RX-V795a, Replaced the relay DG1U, which is controlled by the on/off button. Because the switching contacts in the relay were burned in. (Relay of which you hear the click when you switch on or off) And everything works again. But replacing it is a bit of work... You have to, after opening the case, among other things, loosen the screws of the main transformer and some more things, to be able to turn over the PCB on which the relay sits, to loosen the 4 solder points of the relay. The relay is Type DG1U, 12VDC coil , switching contacts 8A 250V AC and is a Chinese brand DEC. They are sold by Aliexpress, among others.

There is a relay right next to the fuses on the inside dg1u it says on the top. I cleaned it and pressed down firmly on it and it seem to have fixed it. It fired up for the first time.. The relay might need to be replaced if this doesnt work for ya.
I found a solution at: http://www.diyforums.net/forums/domestic-electronics/11098-yamaha-rxv795-receiver-shuts-itself-down-after-some-time.html

problem at output drivers.

There was probaly a power surge over night,End it fried the reciever on you.

Hi my name is Mike Houston of DISH Network and I see you arelooking for the remote codes for your Yamaha RX-V795 5.1. The codes are; 733,747, 730, 731, 732, 745 and 663. To address the remote to the Yamaha you willwant to press and hold the desired mode button (TV, VCR, and AUX) until theentire mode button backlights come on, then release. The next thing you want todo is press the number 2 and enter the three digit code (the light will blinkoff after each digit is entered and then return to a steady light.) After youenter the 2 and the three digit code press the Pound (#) button, if the codeentered is valid for the remote, the mode light flashes three times. If thereare anymore questions please e-mail me at [email protected].

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

You have a power audio amplifier problem.The blinking is an error code,common on latest TV,audio/video and all electronic appliances. The one that you have is your Audio Power amp is defective,it needs replacement of main Audio Power IC,do check the caps too.

This is a common question on this site. Amps of all types have protection circuits to keep them from doing a self meltdown. Testing follows this logic. 1. Remove all speaker wires. 2. Keep the volume down - all the way. 3. Turn the unit on. 4. If it does not trip off, then there is a problem either in a speaker or the wiring. a. Reconnect one at a time until/unless it trips off b. That will tell you where to look further.
If it does trip off, then there is an internal circuit issue in the amp and probably requires professional help to fix.

If you've set up the speaker levels according to the manual (you DO have the manual, right?) and the rear speakers worked then, maybe your program material has little audible surround going on.
It's not blown.

Use the SET MENU button on the front panel (next to the Level button and below the Tuning Up/Down Buttons.

THE GOAL HEAR IS TO DETERMINE IF THE INSTALLATION IS CAUSING YOUR PROTECTION FAULT OR IS IT THE RECEIVER ITSELF HAVING INTERNAL DAMAGE. REMOVE THE RCA INPUTS AND DISCONNECT THE SPEAKERS, THEN POWER THE AMPLIFIER UP WITH THIS NO INPUT, NO SPEAKER LOAD CONDITION. IF IT STILL GOES INTO PROTECTION, THEN THE RECEIVER WILL NEED TO BE SERVICED, AS YOU HAVE TOTALLY SIMULATED A BENCHED CONDITION THAT IS TOTALLY INDEPENDENT OF YOUR INSTALLATION. MOST TIMES, THE RECEIVE WILL GO INTO PROTECTION WHEN IT SEES AN EXCESSIVE LOAD WHEN TURNING UP THE VOLUME, WHICH IS USUALLY CAUSED BY TOO MANY SPEAKERS OR DAMAGED SPEAKERS, BUT IF NO SPEAKERS CONNECTED, THEN IT IS USUALLY BECAUSE THE RECEIVER SEES AN EXCESSIVE LOAD DUE TO ITS OUTPUT SECTION BEING DAMAGED. IN ANY CASE, ONCE REPAIRED, YOU MUST CHECK YOUR SPEAKERS FOR BURNED VOICE-COILS, WHICH WILL IMPOSE AN EXCESSIVE LOAD TO THE AMPLIFIER AND CAN CAUSE IT TO FAIL AGAIN. ONE SCENARIO HERE, IS THAT YOUR RIGHT SPEAKER IS SHORTED, THEREBY MAKING THE RECEIVER GO N AND OUT OF PROTECTION AND THE CONDITION OF THE LEFT SPEAKER IS UNKNOWN. THE OTHER POSSIBILITY IS THAT THE RIGHT SPEAKER HAS FINISHED BURNING UP AND IS OPEN, LIKE IT IS NOT EVEN CONNECTED AND THE LEFT SPEAKER IS IN THE PROCESS OF BLOWING AND IS THE ONE PUTTING IT IN AND OUT OF PROTECTION. AT ANY RATE, YOU REALLY NEED TO VERIFY THAT THE SPEAKERS VOICE-COILS ARE OK. I KNOW YOU SAID THEY WERE FINE, BUT YOU NEED TO REALLY CHECK THEM CLOSELY. YOU CAN USE AN OHM-METER TO CHECK ONE SPEAKER AGAINST THE OTHER FOR COMPARISON. WHILE NOT TOTALLY ACCURATE, IT WILL BE CLOSE ENOUGH TO DETERMINE IF THE VOICE-COILS ARE DAMAGED, SHORTED OR OPEN. AN 8 OHM SPEAKER WILL SOMETIMES READ A LITTLE LOWER THAN 8 OHMS, USUALLY AROUND 7 OR SO, BUT NOT LESS THAN 6. ALSO, DO CHECK THE SPEAKER WIRES THEMSELVES FOR BEING SHORTED OR PINCHED SOMEWHERE. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V

Has anything been spilt on it, if so take the batteries out, pop it apart and remove the rubber backside, and circuit board, wash them with a damp rag, (not detergent) and let dry, then reasemble.

Those recivers are usually preety good oones with little to no problems. Its just when it gets a certin age it extends its life. You can take it in to a technician to have it serviced, mostly you have cracked solders on the board which will accout for the problems you are having. there might be a few things that need changing but basically your recuver is good it just needs servicing thats all.
Or if you prefer you could get a new one.. BUT YOU CAN JUST HAVE THE CURRENT ONE YOU GOT SERVICED..

a service wil include
re-soldering cracked or loose solders on the board
changing a couple of stuff, maybe capicators or resistors and unlikely an ic.
dusting it

So just take it in to a technician for a service cause its reached it life span ,,