20 Most Recent Electric Mobility 3 Wheel Motorized Electric Wheelchair Power Scooter Questions & Answers

Scooter hesitates when running or increase in speed could jump forward???

Electric... | Answered on Mar 14, 2015

Time for new batteries.

Electric... | Answered on Feb 11, 2015

Hi, I've found something on amazon, take a look: CATERPILLAR Raygo Rascal Roller 600A 3E710 3E973 PTS Parts. Have a nice day


Electric... | Answered on Dec 27, 2014

There is an owners manual available which has a troubleshooting guide at the following: http://manuals.monsterscooterparts.com/mobility/Rascal/manual-rascal-600-t.pdf

If you have a good relationship with a local dealer they may be able to copy and provide you with one.
Electric Mobility, the manufacturer, in my experience will not provide one to you.

Electric... | Answered on Mar 06, 2014

the Mobility Center in hayward ca owners' name is Sal phone #
510-886-4526 should be able to help you.

Electric... | Answered on Dec 19, 2013

Unfortunately the manuals are considered proprietary and not distributed, i've looked everywhere. What kind of controller do you have? I

Electric... | Answered on May 07, 2012

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Problem with Scooters
schooter slowsdown that stops after a while schooter starts

Posted by avatarLeonard Cannon on Apr 26, 2012

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I'm assuming you have a full charge on your batteries? The problem is that the charger can be fulled into thinking that your batteries are at a full charge when they are not. The battery will put out he correct voltage so your voltage gage reads right. The battery will put out the correct resistance so the charger will see a charged battery. Chargers work by resistance the lower the resistance the harder the charger works to charge the battery. So the only way to determine the real state of charge is to bring the batteries to a battery shop. Have them load test the battery in your presence if the battery is new. This is not a pass or fail test.What we are looking for is the upper limit of the cranking amps the battery will output.They may tell you this battery isn't supposed to be measured that way because in battery is not used to start a car. Well most of the equipment is geared for measuring car batteries. For what we are doing here it doesn't matter. For my scooter batteries i use two 12v 35amp/hr batteries. Have them grab a new one off the shelf, have them find the upper limit of the amp output. What happened to me is i didn't watch them do this test. The instrument he was using will give you a pass.or fail indication at a preset level of about 150 amp/hr unless you manually input a higher level to test for. This was a new battery and they want it to pass. I had them find the upper limit of a new off the shelf battery by entering higher values into the test instrument until it failed back off on the value until i found it passed. A new battery like the one my scooter uses will put out close to 500 cranking amps. Well when i tested my battery it barely reached 200 cranking amps. So in fact this battery doesn't have the capacity of the off the shelf battery. So as you load it the voltage goes down. My motor controller will detect that and give me a fail indication.

oK if this is not the problem we can look for amp leaks. Put a amp meter between the battery and the load. Turn the scooter off, get a reading?.If you do something is either on or a resistive short drawing down your battery. Disconnect stuff until the reading is zero. What ever you disconnected last will give you the section of the scooter the problem is coming from. Like if you disconnect the control head and it drops to zero i would start there. Turn the scooter on there should be an indication, but it should be under an amp. Now get the rear wheels up so that they can rotate freely. Apply just enough power to move the wheels. Look at the meter if its a analog meter does it jump around. Does the motor stall at any time. If the first thing happens you have a partially shorted winding in the motor. IF the second thing happens the meter will jump up or down indicating either an open or shorted winding.
Now floor it jot down the amp draw. IS it excessive? We check this by doing the math. My scooter use two 12 v 35 amp/hr batteries hooked in series. So i have a 24v system @ 35amp/hr, the scooter has a loaded range of 25 mile at a speed of 5 mph.So my battery life is going to be about 5 hours. So we can say the motor loaded on a flat surface will use about 7 amp/hr. So running the motor flat out unloaded is going to be less than 7 amp/hr. My scooter's motor runs at about >5 amp/hr unloaded. Hope this helps

Electric... | Answered on May 06, 2012

Look at the rear of the scooter, make sure the Free Wheel lever is engaged

Electric... | Answered on Aug 28, 2011

how to fit motor brushes on a shoprider deluxe. thanks

Electric... | Answered on Jun 05, 2011

you can use a phillips screw driver to turn on your scooter or find a long bolt that will fit in the switch hole until you can find a key Hope this helps

Electric... | Answered on May 05, 2011

The go go controller has a controller which will give you a specific beep code to indicate the problem with your scooter. From what you are describing, it seems that the throttle potentiometer is out of neutral at start-up. The controller needs to electrically sense the throttle pot is in neutral (center of left and right) to start. By turning the scooter on and off you are jiggling the pot enough to get it to zero out(go to neutral).
Please get back to me with the exact model of the go go and with the exact number of beeps in the error code and I will be able to diagnose the problem in a more definitive way.
The most common error codes involve the throttle pot out of neutral at start-up and the brake freewheel lever is in freewheel.
You can see if the throttle pot is out of neutral by moving it slightly in either direction with one hand and turning the scooter off and on with the other hand. If the scooter works by this slight adjustment of the pot, then this part needs to be replaced. Hope this helps.

Electric... | Answered on Jan 31, 2011

This typically happens when the front to rear wiring harness has a damaged internal wire or wires. The front to rear harness runs from the front control console, down through the tiller (T part) through the front wheel frame and angle adjustment collar, and through the bottom frame to the controller. There is a wear area of the wiring at the front bearing of the steering tiller. There are 8 or more wires in a covered jacket that run through this area. Over time they rub and get pinched or kinked and broken. The test for bad wiring is exactly what you describe. Usually the broken internal wiring cannot be seen.
The best solution is to replace the entire front to rear harness with the new connectors at each end. The harness is relatively inexpensive and labor should be about 1 hour. Hope this helps.

Electric... | Answered on Jan 31, 2011

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