20 Most Recent Husky Husqvarna Chain Saw 240E w 16in bar Questions & Answers

You have asked a vehicle based question in a Chainsaw category. Please try again.

Can be located on the carb.! it is on the left hand side of the saw below the primer bulb but above the L/H screws

Yes that saw does exist..! What is your question regarding it.?

Is this a Chainsaw based question as I fear you have the wrong category.

Ok, let's test it. We need 3 things for a motor to run. Fuel, spark and air/compression.

This first test you always start with as it will eliminatethe need to test for spark and air.

Spray some carburetor cleaner, gum out, into the plug hole

Reinstall the plug

Spraysome into the carburetoras well.

Now give 2 slow pulls, then pull it as u normally would.

If it starts but only runs for a few seconds, you know it's definitelythe carburetor... if that's the case then it needs to be adjustedwith the adjustment needles on the carburetor, which I can help you with as well.

Let me know how you made out

Brian

Set meter to ohms and take coil plug off spark plug need to check resistance in coil not voltage find out what the tolerances are

Check there are no kinks in fuel line.
Make sure that the air filter isn't blocked.
Check the throttle cable is operating the throttle plate in the carburettor ok.
Ensure chain isn't too tight.
The carburettor should be a tight fit on the air inlet manifold.
It's possible that some of the jets could be blocked in the carburettor. You can try and clean these with compressed air but ensure you remove any seals gaskets, springs on the diaphragm pump , primer bulb etc as they can be damaged by the pressure.
You can also buy an aerosol can of starter fluid at your local autoparts store. This is sprayed into the carburettor to clear any partial blockages.

Carefully check the integrity of the gas line in the tank...make SURE the fuel filter is absolutely clean. If that's all OK, maybe you need a carb kit....try not to run ethanol gas if you can...it destorys small carbs on chainsaws.

The primer pulls fuel from the metering side of the carb, if there is no fuel here it is because either the fuel filter in the tank is blocked, or the fuel hose is trapped, or the non return valve in the carb itself is stuck, this can happen if the saw has been left with a rich oil mixture left in it.

Try loosening the chain adjustment (bar) screw or locate and clear as needed any material found to be caught between the drive sprocket and chain.

Kevin: When breaking in a new saw, it is necessary to check the chain often, because the new chain will stretch with use. The chain or bar might have suffered some damage when the chain came off, so here's what you need to do. 1. Drain the fuel from the gas tank (to avoid a leak). 2. Lay the saw on it's side so the bar is up. 3. Remove the 2 nuts holding the side plate on the saw. 4. Remove the side plate and the bar and chain. 5. Remove the chain from the bar. 6. Carefully check the slot in the bar where the chain rides... clean up any burrs with a file and make sure that the slot has not been widened at any point. 7. carefully check the INSIDE circumfrence of the chain, inspecting the dogs that ride in the slot in the bar for damage. GENTLY file any burrs off of the dogs but don.t remove any more material than you have to. 8. Reinstall the bar on the saw. 9. Oil and reinstall the chain on the bar making sure that the cutting teeth are facing in the correct direction (The cutting teeth on the top should face toward the tip of the saw). 10. Adjust the screw at the front of the side plate so that the nib threaded on the screw goes through the hole in the bar when you put the side plate on. (This is the chain tensioner). When you are sure that the side plate is on and the chain tensioner nib is protruding through the hole in the bar, snug the two nuts on the studs protruding through the side plate (do not tighten them at this point). 11. Make sure that the two nuts are not too tight, as now you are going to adjust the chain tension. Tighten the chain tensioner screw (at the front of the side cover) until you can pull up on the chain at the center of the bar and the chain pulls up 1/16 of an inch... no more. The dogs should not come fully out of the slot in the bar when you pull up on the chain. Adjust the tensioner until those parameters are met. Now tighten the two nuts on the studs sticking through the side plate... 170 - 200 inch pounds should do it... don't strip the studs. 12. remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug, and try to manually run the chain around the bar. Any roughness must be examined and repaired... the chain must run smoothly on the bar, and the chain must not bee loose... remember 1/16 of an inch and the dogs cannot come out of the slot in the bar. 13. Run the saw, and if it runs properly, go ahead and cut your wood. 14. Check the chain often (every 2 to 3 minutes of cutting) and adjust the chain when necessary. The chain will eventually wear and stretch to where you don't have to check it but every 1/2 hour or so... eventually means about 10 to 15 hours of actual cutting time If you get into trouble during this procedure, you can look up ""replacing a chainsaw chain" on the web or E-mail me at [email protected]. Good luck

There was a number of issues with this machine and oiling, the early machine had no stregthening around the bar bols and the composit bar pad could distort crushing the oil hose ( this was sorted with the later crankcase, here you will see a squre steel block around each bar bolt ) the back of the pump housing was open on the early machine and dirt entered destroying the pump shaft gear, this was sorted with a rubber gasket at the back of the pump, let me know what you find.

Just chenk that it is mechanically sound, remove the muffler and check the condition of the piston skirt through the open exhaust port, any signs of scuffing and it will need to come apart to assess the damage.

Its not an idle screw adjustment issue, it is a mixture screw adjustment issue, unfortunatly there is a special tool to adjust the mixture screws, pt no. 530035560 ( available from Hysqvarna dealers ) once you have this tool you can make an adjustment to the L screw on the carb, undo ( anti clock wise ) this screw ten minutes on a clock face ,this will richen the muxture, and should make it more stable on idle.

It will be set at base settings, you will need to fine tune from there, the mixture screwsrequire a special tool to adjust them part no. 530035560 the screw heads have a star not a screw driver slot, max free running speed should not exceed 12500 +- 500 rpm they are not the easiest machine to tune due to the X Torque cylinder design.

The 235/240E had major main bearing problems, the bearing cage on the clutch side breaks up and pinches the piston ring in, if the machines has a good spark and clean carb, i would be looking to check the it is mechanically sound, unfortunatley this means a full strip down, let me know if you need more help, i have done very many of these machines.

If the side cover will not go on, it will be because the brake has actuated, you need to load the brake, this can be done by inserting a pin spanner into the quadrant where the grey handle fits when the cover is on the saw, twisting this will re load the brake, the cover should then go back on.

The symptoms indicate lean running, so check the fuel filter for plugging and the fuel lines for decay or other damage. Husky seems be having troubles with our ethanol treated fuel and may require some warranty attention. We have a year old 435 Husky that would not start after about 3 days of excellent running--warranty replaced the carburetor which seems to have us working well now. Good luck!

Probably fuel starvation. Some ideas here https://www.google.com/search?q=Husky+3000+pressure+washer+cuts+out+after+20+minutes ..

There is no idle mode. It runs at a consistent 3600 RPM. There will be a run RPM adjust, just follow the throttle linkage/spring to the governor arm and there will be a second spring on the governor arm that goes to the throttle control adjustment.