20 Most Recent Stihl Ts400 Cut Off Saw Carb Carburetor Air Filter - Page 4 Questions & Answers

When installing screws into new components, lubricate the threads liberally, then start to gently turn the screw in the tightening direction. As the screw starts to engage, increase the amount of pressure and turning force required to completely engage the screw to its final placement. *please note: threading aluminum takes more torque (7-11 ft lbs) than polymer components (4-7 ft lbs) On polymer components, stop tightening when the component is tightened into place.

When installing screws into used components, gently rotate the screw backwards until the threads on the bolt go past the threads already in the component, then start to gently turn the screw in the tightening direction. (the reason is: you do not want to cut new threads, as this will damage and remove the current thread material, and the hole will be too big as a result) Put a small amount of lubricant (oil, thread oil, ect) and proceed to tighten the screw(bolt).

The use of a piece of recoil rope will not damage the piston, and if it gets stuck, reverse the rotation, remove rope, and try inserting it again. 1) Using a 12" piece of recoil rope, or similar size rope, 2) Remove the spark plug, 3) Feed about 6-8" of rope into the cylinder, 4) Rotate the flywheel in the direction of rotation that matches the removal of the flywheel nut or clutch *note: all flywheel nuts are 'right-hand' or clock-wise to tighten threads all drive clutches are 'left-hand' or counter clock wise to tighten threads

The official way to remove it is a 'Knock-off-tool' right hand threads matched to the size of nut that holds the flywheel tight. A 2 or 3 jawed puller will not remove the flywheel, and guaranteed damage will occur. Flywheels and crankshafts have a tapered design, so when installed with a nut, the taper tightens as the nut is tightened. OK, you probably do not have one of those on your work bench, so lets make one or something like it. 1) Remove spark plug, 2) Insert a 12" piece of recoil rope (use about 6 or 8 inches) into the plug hole. 3) Rotate the flywheel counter clockwise until the rope has bunched itself into the top of the cylinder, stopping the piston before 'top-dead-center' *note: this would act as a replacement for a 'piston stop'. The rope is soft, so no damage to piston or cylinder will occur. If the rope gets caught on a cylinder port, you can back up the rotation, pull the rope out, and retry inserting the rope. 4) After removing the original flywheel nut (right hand threads, so righty-tighty, lefty-loosy) *Try to measure how much torque is required to remove the nut, this will be helpful on reassembly. purchase 2 like sized nuts, thread them onto the crankshaft (but not against the flywheel, leave them loose) so that the end of the crankshaft is not above the last nut. 5) Turn the saw over to position the flywheel up, with a medium weight ball-pean hammer, strike the top nut with a good sharp wrap. **note: Do NOT hit at an angle, use a square, straight down strike. Do NOT strike the end of the crankshaft. 2 strikes should do it, grasp the flywheel to check to see if it has loosened. 6) When reinstalling the flywheel and nut, tighten with the same force as when removing. Each engine has an official flywheel nut torque.