Top 20 Fisher and Paykel DishDrawer DS605FDSM Stainless Steel 23 in Builtin Dishwasher - Page 8 Questions & Answers

I'm not sure of this, because the manual does not have an error with a E. I can fine error F4. It says it encountered a faulty temperature sensor or element. If the heating element burned through the night you circuit breaker tripped (Sure it was not the ground fault circuit breaker?), then the dish washer can't heat the water, so the program can't continue. The program stops (waits) till the chosen temp is reached. If the water stays cold the program can't go on. So also check the heater in the machine. I hope you are aware everything in the machine runs on high (or at least dangerous) voltages, so be careful not to work in the machine when it is still connected.

Not sure why the power chord would have gone missing. I am assuming you may have an integrated model. In any case you will have to take the bottom drawer out to gain access to the power filter board which is located at the base of the cabinet under the drawer. To take out the bottom drawer follow instructions on page 7 of this installation manual. http://www.fisherpaykel.com/vault/pdfs//pdf_installations/526609O_DDinstall_NZGBw.pdf Make sure the drawer is not pulled too much out to avoid damage to wires and hoses underneath. Leave it on soft material on the floor. Next locate the power filter board at the base. It looks like the pcb in the attached parts diagram. The power cable is meant to go to the block connector on this pcb. Make sure you check connections carefully as mains voltages are involved. Put everything back. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Fisherpaykel-Parts/Dishwasher-Parts/525959P/0022/426/Model-DD60388445B/3068/0130000?keySuffixId=&pathTaken=partSearch&pathRender=modelComponent&documentCompId=50042566&diagramPageId=00003&productTypeId=&searchModelNumber=DD60388445B&subCompDesc=Cabinet&brandDesc=FISHERPAYKEL&modelDesc=DISHWASHER&blt=11&shdMod=&keyId=15

Check that Your DD is level and that the draw is actually closing properly . There is a sensor inside the cabinets on the right hand side. Cheers

U1 Is a water supply problem so check the tap is opened fully and the hose is not damaged or kinked. then press the start button to resume the program Cheers Then

Lights 1, 3 & 4 flashing implies it still full of water and won't continue the cycle because it hasn't pumped out the water. It's often caused by a blocked outlet hose at either the pump end or the sink end. Check the sink end first an ensure it clear but if not, empty out all the water, turn it upside down and remove the base cover. only about six screws. Unclip the hose at the pump end and ensure it's clear. Blow through it as hard as possible to test if the hose is clear. If this doesn't work, the pumps probably faulty and will need replacement. Unsure of the cost but it's nearly all plastic and very cheap looking!

The attached assembly document might be helpful. To access the drain hose at the dishwasher end your best bet is to pull the dishwasher out from under kitchen cabinet and lay it on the floor on its side. Make sure you disconnect the mains power and the hose connections first. The hose should be accessible from the bottom of dishwasher. http://www.jordansmanuals.com/ServiceManuals/FP/Dishwasher/DW60CDW2/DW60CDW2.pdf

Sounds like the outlet valve on the top drawer has gone.This prevents water flowing back in to the drawer.

I've had that flashing a few times. It was usually the control board on the bottom (floor level) of the inside, getting wet.

Make sure the water inlet tap under sink is fully opened. The water pressure in mains could be lower than the setting on the dishwasher. Assuming it is DW60. See this manual. http://manuals.appliancesonline.com.au/dw60cdx2/dw60cdx2_user_guide.pdf

As the drawers share a common outlet to the kitchen sink drain, it is the drain water from bottom drawer going to top drawer. Can happen if the drain hoses are not following the correct specifications for installation. An air gap kit is available to solve the problems. Refer http://www.genuineapplianceparts.net/product/WT50/WT50-Dual-Air-Gap-Kit/?preadd=action&key=WT50

Not sure if you have fixed the F2 problem yet. The rotor cavity may look clean but sometimes there is a piece of bone or seed stuck inside the channel connecting rotor cavity with pump sump. Take the rotor out and the drain filter out. Take a rigid thin wire and run it inside the channel connecting the two. Also get some white vinegar and with a tooth brush rub it inside the rotor cavity to ensure all dirt is removed. The rotor speed sensing is done by the hall sensor sitting underneath the cavity. It is not visible from top. The sensor could be reading incorrectly. IF still no luck then Run in diagnostic mode - (but make sure you do not try any other function than what is mentioned here otherwise you could damage dishwasher). DishDrawer Diagnostics can only be entered in Power Off mode, ie. When there is no display on the LCD or the badge LED's are off. Diagnostics is entered by holding the Keylock and Start/Pause buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds. Ensure that Keylock is pushed first. All LED's and LCD segments (except keylock) are illuminated. Press Power button and display shows HO in red background. Press Start/ Pause. You are now in hardware diagnostic mode. Open drawer so that you can see inside. Press Start/ Pause a few times until FU shows on display. At this point press Keylock and water should flow in. Press Keylock to turn inlet valve off after water is collected under the wash arm (don't cover wash arm). Press Start/ Pause again and P1 will display. Press Keylock to turn rotor motor on and water will swish around. Press Keylock to turn motor off within a few seconds otherwise flooding could occur. Next press Start/ Pause once so P2 displays. Press Keylock to run rotor again but this time it will pump out. Let it run until the water is pumped out. Press Keylock to stop pump. This should test the rotor in both forward and reverse direction. PRESS POWER BUTTON ANYTIME TO EXIT DIAGNOSTIC If the hardware test worked ok then turn mains power to dishwasher off and on and start normal wash cycle. If there is still an F2 problem then hall sensor is faulty and needs replacement. Not easy to do and best left to technicians. By the way each dishdrawer has separate controller - so one drawer could be working fine and the other not.

See if there is any difference if you turn the mains power off and back on. please check if any fault conditions in the troubleshooting section of manual are applying. http://manuals.appliancesonline.com.au/dw60cdx2/dw60cdx2_user_guide.pdf

It is the drain water from bottom drawer that is finding its way to the top drawer. This could be due to incorrect drain hose height. Check in installation manual. Alternatively you will have to buy an air gap kit and connect the two drain hoses separately to the kitchen sink. http://www.genuineapplianceparts.net/ecart/item.php?item_id=250&category_id=58

good to see the problem is fixed.

Well done.

If you cleaned the filters regularly and you hear the pump motor running, I don't know what is wrong. I would check is the filter os free and if the pump is running in the first place. If you don't know what the pump is or don't know how to check if the motor is running I should invite a repair engineer.

A please would be nice, how about you do a search on google images and see what you come up with?

Your post says it is about a dishwasher, but I assume it is about a refrigerator. There is generally a knob in the refrigerator. That will control both the freezer and refrigerator. The fridge cools by a fan that blows cold air from the freezer to the fridge. That is also why food can freeze when it is in the back of the fridge.

If this is a double drawer dishwasher and bottom drawing is functional but top drawer won't open means the controller on top drawer is faulty or power circuit is locked. If turning the mains power off and back on makes no difference then controller could be the problem. One way to test is to take the controller from bottom drawer and replace that in the top drawer. This requires a lot of patience and experience with electronic stuff. If you are not brave enough to test then call the technician. The controller is about $200 to buy. Make sure the mains power socket is taken out before working on the dishwasher internals. FISHER PAYKEL DISHWASHER DD603 Parts

Most likely you have fault code E1 which means door is not shut properly. It is likely the door springs need adjustment as the door might be opening mid cycle. Refer manual http://www.fisherpaykel.com/vault/pdfs//pdf_usecares/599350D_DW60ugm_AUSGw.pdf