20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel DishDrawer DS605FDSM Stainless Steel 23 in Builtin Dishwasher - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Check for debris in the pump impeller. Your owner's manual will describe how to 1. Remove baskets 2, Remove wash arm 3. Rotate (inner) lock ring on stainless steel bottom plate to release and remove it. 4. Rotate top impeller by hand to feel for rough spots indicating debris in lower impeller. 5. Rotate motor assembly lock ring to release rotor assembly and clear debris from sump. 6. Reassemble in reverse order and check operation. This can also occur with a drawer that is not run often (less than once or twice per month) and indicates a dry bearing surface. Most often running a rinse and hold once or twice frees this up and corrects the problem. Drawers work best when operated once a week or more.

F1 (or E1) is a "Flood" fault and means there is water in the bottom pan. This is beneath the bottom drawer. The sensor is in the left, rear corner of the base pan. Any kind of leak, including over sudsing or split hoses or or lid not down fully due to tall items in tub, can cause this. Remove the lower drawer, dry the water from the pan bottom, reinstall the lower drawer and check operation. If this error recurs you must find the leak and correct it.

ERM was manufactured June 2005 according to this serial number. The product code (on the model/serial tag) would further refine the dishdrawer details.

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The micro switch in the door which senses the door closing has probably failled. This is accessible once the inner door cover is removed. Switch should be under $10 from electrical store. Or buy through appliance manufacturer.

I had a similar problem with my Fisher and Paykel Nautilus 920 (same product line more or less as yours). Here's what I discovered was wrong, and how I fixed it ...Hidden inside the plastic panel at the top of the door, where the operating buttons for the dishwasher are) is is a little switch connected to the door latch that has a blue wire and a cream coloured wire attached to it. What was wrong in mine was the cream coloured wired had become brittle and broken off from the switch. If I pressed any button, all I got was 4 rapid beeps (no error code on the display or anything like that, just the 4 beeps).If you open the dishwasher door and look inside around the top, you'll see about 6 star shaped screws. These hold the control panel on. You'll need a special screwdriver bit to undo these (luckily I had the right one in a cheap mini screwdriver set I got from eBay that's useful for electronics and computers).Undo those screws and gently prise the control panel off. (Poke something in the door to stop it from closing completely while you are doing all of this). Check the switch in the middle near the door latch to see if the two wires are still properly attached. In my case the cream one had broken off and fallen back inside the door, but I was able to catch it and fish it out with a pair of kitchen tongs. I used sticky tape to tape it (and the blue one) to the door while I was working so neither of them could fall back inside. I stripped a bit more plastic off the top of the cream wire then soldered it back onto its connector, then reattached it, along with the blue one, to the back of the door latch switch (take note of which colour goes on which part of the switch before you begin).Probably the trickiest bit was reassembling the control panel back on. There is a little plastic thing that covers the LED display part that always wants to fall out if you try to do this with the door in the upright position, plus you have to ease the panel back on properly so that the push buttons all line up with the outer flexible covering. I found it easier to lay on my back with the door almost fully open to gently tease things back into position. Also, check that the door latch works smoothly (without closing the door - just squeeze it up and down and makes sure the operation 'feels right'). Once everything is in place, redo the little screws and hopefully you are good to go again! Ive had this dishwasher for 14 years now and had virtually decided that I would have to buy a new one until I discovered what the problem was and how relatively simple it was to fix. Hope this info helps you or someone else! :)

actually to me it seemed pretty easy ,, i am sure u can do it .

Lid motors should rectify themselves when power is restored. Once they have moved up then push the drawer back. If they don't rectify, you can disconnect the actuator from the side frame and rotate the actuator to wind it up.

Hi, I need the model number of this unit to assist you properly. Open the top drawer and on the left side on the frame is a sticker with a model number, also a product number would be helpful if you have one. I can send you a manual with this information. Thanks I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249