Alesis M1-Active-MK2 Powered Studio Monitors -Pair System - Answered Questions & Fixed issues
Broken bass unit
(Please read the whole thing before opening anything)
Loose connections inside either the receiver or the subwoofer. Open the subwoofer case (the screen should pop off, if there is no screen there is usually some hidden screws somewhere) and see if there are any wires that have been separated. The problem with subwoofers (more common in car audio) is that they will vibrate so much that when you have something meant to have a lot of bass without the subwoofer and then you add the subwoofer to it, it's overpowering it which causes it to vibrate harder; seperating the cord that attaches the fabric of the speaker itself to the metal harness.
You can do one of 2 things:
1) Souder the wires back together using a heat sink.
2) Get allagator clips, cut them down pretty short and just extend the length of the wires a little bit giving it more bouncing room. Caution with this because if you dont cover the clips and they touch the metal frame, you will have no sound. Electric tape them once they're on.
If nothing is seperated, check the input jacks from the speaker box frame to the speaker itself. Loose connections are common for the crimp on kind.
Also a good idea: if you really (I mean really) want bass and you have no neighbors within a 1/4 mile radius of your house, have a friend who is getting rid of his car woofers to hook you up an AC outlet from the power source, and then use the red and white cables going into the amp to come from your receiver. I've seen this and it's great when watching a movie or playing games. Surrounding people hate it. (Wonder why?)
4/26/2013 8:37:24 PM •
Alesis...
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Answered
on Apr 26, 2013
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237 views
ALESIS M1 ACTIVE MK2 CONE VIBRATION!
Hello!
my speaker Alessis M1 Active 620, with a roar is very strong in the speaker, the potentiometer does not attenuate, change the volume. Ja switched capacitor C8, based on my research of other users, but got no result. When you press the power button, the LED lights in blue, and even change the color to red, producing a noise (snoring) very strong.
help!
Please help me!
6/8/2010 1:02:56 PM •
Alesis...
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Answered
on Jun 08, 2010
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870 views
Alesis M1 Active 620 studio monitor cutting out
I see from the manual there are several controls on the speaker that could affect the sound in the way you describe (gain, hi- and mid-boost, acoustic space). Why don't you compare the actions of each control with the working speaker as the standard and a test tone or FM noise as the source? It might help you to identify a specific internal function that has changed. After that, someone's going to have to crack it open and do surgery.
You might also try using the opposite input (TRS vs XLR) than the one you're using. It might reveal something.
3/13/2010 2:01:20 PM •
Alesis...
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Answered
on Mar 13, 2010
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695 views
Broken equalizer
then something is open in the signal path....bad bypass switch, broken trace..etc..
9/20/2014 2:57:05 AM •
Alesis Audio...
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Answered
on Sep 20, 2014
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184 views
Alesis RA150 overheat.
You first need to check whether the relay you have used as a replacement has the same voltage on the coil as the original. You have wisely chosen one with a higher current rating on the switch contacts, which is a very good idea, but I suspect you've not looked at the coil voltage to ensure it's the same. For example, you may have installed a with a relay with a 12 volt coil, while the original had a 24 volt coil. Result? the new relay coil will overheat, as will the driver transistor.
A simple test is to operate the amp until it feels hot, TURN IT OFF, quickly remove the top cover and see if the new relay feels hot. If it does, you need to source a replacement relay with the correct coil voltage. Usually the coil voltage is written on the body of the relay somewhere, so you should be able to identify it on the original unit airly easily
4/10/2014 3:31:06 AM •
Alesis Audio...
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Answered
on Apr 10, 2014
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205 views
Vocalizer 3 output checked cables and swapped out. 1300 watt power adaptor lights up. sound indicator light is on but no sound. tried mono and stereo. power adaptor problem?
If you've checked the cables, swapped them out, and ensured that the power adapter is providing power to the Vocalizer 3, but you're still not getting any sound output, there are a few additional troubleshooting steps you can try:
1. **Check Volume Levels**: Ensure that the volume levels on the Vocalizer 3 and any connected devices (such as mixers, amplifiers, or speakers) are turned up and not muted.
2. **Test with Different Inputs/Outputs**: Try connecting the Vocalizer 3 to different inputs on your mixer, amplifier, or speakers, and test with different output devices if possible. This can help determine if the issue is specific to certain connections or devices.
3. **Inspect Settings**: Check the settings on the Vocalizer 3 to ensure that the correct input and output sources are selected. Make sure that any settings related to mono/stereo output are configured correctly.
4. **Test with Different Power Adapter**: If you have access to another power adapter with similar specifications, try using it to power the Vocalizer 3. This can help determine if the issue is related to the power adapter.
5. **Reset the Vocalizer 3**: Some electronic devices can benefit from a reset to their factory settings. Refer to the user manual for instructions on how to perform a reset on the Vocalizer 3, and try resetting it to see if it resolves the issue.
6. **Contact Technical Support**: If you've tried the above steps and are still experiencing issues with the Vocalizer 3, it's possible that there may be a hardware problem or malfunction. Contact the manufacturer's technical support for further assistance and troubleshooting guidance. They may be able to provide additional insights or recommend repairs if necessary.
By following these troubleshooting steps, you should be able to diagnose and resolve the issue with the lack of sound output from your Vocalizer 3.
How do I change to degree mode on my porpo YH-2000
- Power Off: Turn off the device.
- Jumper Configuration: Locate the jumper labeled "S16" on the device. Initially, it should be connected to pins 2 and 3.
- Power On (Alarm+All LEDs Flashing): Turn the device back on. You'll see the alarm LED and all other LEDs flashing.
- Power Off Again: Turn off the device once more.
- Jumper Adjustment: Change the jumper configuration from pins 2 and 3 to pins 1 and 2.
- Finished: Your Porpo YH-2000 is now set to the desired angular unit mode.
If you encounter any issues, you can press the reset switch on the back of the device to reinitialize it.
Openfit Shokz battery replacement?
Question edited for clarity, typo and CAPS.
Question moved from Cars and Trucks category.
Claim on the warranty irrespective of how long you have had them. They charge $180 but they cost them $20 to buy from China. Package them up and send them tracked and ask them to replace the batteries.
How long is the warranty on AfterShokz?
While we hope you never need it, all new Shokz purchased from authorized retailers come with a two-year warranty that begins on your date of purchase.
Jan 11, 2019
https://www.google.com/search?q=Openfit+Shokz+battery+replacement
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My roadking rk4000 wont charge. I turn it off to charge it but there is no indicator light at all, any suggestions?
Are you using the charging cables that came with it? That is a type C. Are you securely attaching the charging cable? A loose connection would keep the battery from charging. If you had a low battery, you would see a red light. That you have no light at all suggests there is no charge left in the battery. I'm not sure the reset will work with no charge which is why you ought to check the cables first.
But turn it off and then hold down the Multifunction button for 10 seconds to reset it. Then turn it back on and see what happens. If you can, test the charging cable on aother device. If you have another type C charging cable, try it, just to eliminate a bad cable. If these suggestions don't work, you may try the manufacturer's customer support.
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