Top 10 Kenmore Elite HE5t Washer Questions & Answers

F27 is an Overflow Condition error. If the Overflow contact on the pressure switch is closed for more than 60 seconds an Overflow condition will occur. In an Overflow condition, the Door may remain locked, and the Drain Pump may run constantly, even if PAUSE/CANCEL is pressed twice and the Display is cleared. Unplug the unit to service. This is verbatim from the tech sheet. You will need to check to following:

1. First, UNPLUG the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code reappears, proceed to step 2.
2. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
3. Check Wire Harness connectors to the Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Check/Clean Drain Pump Filter of foreign objects.
5. Check for Drain Pump Failure.
6. Check the Inlet Valve for proper shut off
7. Check the Pressure switch for proper operation.

1. Check the drain hose by removing it from the standpipe and pulling a vacuum on it with a shop vac. You may have an obstruction in the drain line or drain pump. It is also a good idea to check the drain hose just prior to the drain pump as well. This is the hose that attaches to the bottom of the tub and runs to the inlet side of the drain pump. This area can get clogged with small articles of clothing.

2. Unplug the washer and remove the kick plate and top panel. Check for any loose connections at the drain pump, pressure switch (located in the right rear of the machine), and the CCU (located in the rear of the washer with all the wiring running to it). You may have a loose or dirty connection somewhere. If you remove any connectors, make sure you write down where they go. It's best to only remove ONE connector at a time when checking the CCU. On the pressure switch, make sure the clear tubing (air hose) is still attached. With the air hose off, loose, or leaking, the switch will not work and the tub will continue to try to fill. This may generate an F27 error.

3. The drain pump. Remove the clean out cover on the pump and check for debris. Make sure you drain the water from the drain lines, pump and hoses PRIOR to removing the cover. Otherwise, you will have about a gallon or so of water to clean up. The shop vac method works great for this. Look for obstructions in the clean-out trap and impeller area of the pump.

4. The inlet valve. If the inlet valve would fail in this manner, the tub would be trying to fill with water all the time and not shut off. You need to ask yourself if you find standing water in the tub when not in use.

5. The "Sud" error. This occurs when air from too much detergent gets into the drain line. If you are using HE detergent, HOW MUCH are you using? Some things to consider:

a. Do you have soft water? This can actually cause the soap to suds better making the need to cut back on how much you use.

b. Look at the detergent container. Is it double or triple concentrated? Some detergents are sold as extra concentrated which means you need to cut back on the amount you use. Not doing so can cause the water to over suds.

c. What size loads are you using the detergent in? Running small loads with the same amount of detergent can also cause an over suds condition.

NOTE: Knowingly or unknowingly using the improper detergent on these model washers MAY void your manufacturer's warranty. Read all instructions and documentation that comes with the appliance, thoroughly.

Rule out the simple common sense things first. If everything else checks out and your problem still persists, you may have a component failure (more commonly, the CCU or pressure switch)

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Hi.

Please read the tip below, explaining how to fix F70 and F71 problems. The comment applies to Whirlpool built kenmore washers like the one in question.

F70 and F71 are two logic board error codes that point at a communication error between the main log...

Regards.

Ginko.

The f35 error code is a pressure sensor failure. Make use you are only using he detergent. Check the drum the water should be drained out. Usually the complaint is when the washer is started it will lock the door and the drain pump will run. The display will display sud when it is running. Eventually it will display f 35 error code. To check the pressure sensor you will have to remove the top. The top is secured by three screws long the top of the back. With the screws removed slide the top back and lift it off. The pressure sensor is located on the top right side towards the back of the unit with a black hose attached. Remove the hose and blow into it to make sure it is clear. Check to make sure the electrical connections are fully seated. Now with the pressure hose disconnected start a cycle. If the washer works cancel the cycle. Reinstall the pressure hose and the top should work fine. If you still get the f 35 error code you will need to replace the pressure sensor. The part number for the pressure sensor is W10156252

No you cant bypass the switch. what it does is to stop the flow of water comming in to the washer.
if you short it out water will not turn off and it will overflow. it you open it up you will get no water.
Are you sure the switch is bad. A common problem is that the hose that it is attached to it gets plugged up. have you tried to blow through the hose to see if it is clear.

Hope this answers all your questions
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ok...run unit on rinse and spin only,,we need cold water,,if unit still shows sud error make sure drain hose is not kinked,,,if we still have a sud condiction or error ,,remove toe panel and clean filter.good luck

sorry no i/we dont know i have seen this question in mant various froms here this morning we all know F25 code but i and suspect everyone has no idea what the F17 means since i have seacrhed and can not find any reference to it anywhere on the various sites i use to look up Whirlpool Duet error codes...nor in my years in the fileld servicing Duets have i ever seen the F17 code

Hello Tina, welcome to FixYa.

This is a general remedy for the F21 error on most Whirlpool made front-load machines, such as Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana etc.

For a more detailed explanation follow the link to my blog provided here.

http://fixedappliance.blogspot.com/2011/11/whirlpoolkenmoremaytag-more-f02f21-sd.html

**Turn off the breaker at the service panel or unplug the washer from the wall socket...safety first**

1) locate the screws in front at the very bottom of the panel below the door and pull the panel down and forward until it is off. They will be either 1/4" hex head or #20 torx head screws.

2) You will immediately see the drain pump in front of you with a large removable filter. ( **see image below...this is were a wet-dry shop vac and towels come in handy, also the use of the removed panel as a catch pan is beneficial...but you may still get wet )


3) Turn it counter-clockwise should allow you to remove it and inspect it and clean it out. Make a good thorough inspection inside the pump as well not just the removable filter.

4) Re-insert the filter and before placing the panel back run a test rinse/drain cycle to inspect for leaks and to verify the unit drains and spins now.

( If the problem still exist`s the Sd or "F2" or "F21" will re-appear. If so you`ll need to check the hose/rubber bellows from pump to tub...back-flow ball...for other obstructions ).

5) If all appears OK after your efforts, well your efforts paid off...pat yourself on the back. You just saved yourself potentially a couple hundred bucks !

Now You should be good to go. Re-attach the lower panel and you`re back in business.

**NOTE: if this still fails to remedy the Sd, F2, F21 or if it returns immediately during the next drain you may require a pump unfortunately...part # 280187 available at "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclinic.com" etc.

**This however can also be caused by the back-flow ball inside the bellows which connects the tub to the pump. There is a large clamp which secures it to the tub, but if you remove it to clean out all the dirt built up inside, make sure you get it good and secure when putting it back.**


Thanks for choosing FixYa. Please take a moment to rate the solution provided for you here today. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

It is so common that the washing machine can maketerrible noise in many ways and is a common fault. In all occasions it isimportant that your observation is most important and so is vital to theidentification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that machine isvibrating when it is running then the motor /drum suspension has to beinspected. Since these fittings are located on the underside of the machine itis important that you look for the noise with a good inspection lamp. Manuallyturn the motor and drum and listen for the noise, if so the motor bearings, thedrum agitator shaft and fittings must be checked. Also the suspensions whichinclude the shock absorbers and springs, the body clamps must be checked to bein correct alignment and not changed in position. Tightening of themounting is also very important. Finallyin most cases a drop of OIL or smear of grease on the moving parts cane solvemost issues.Check this link :http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1210/wobbly-washing-machine-or-tumble-dryer.htmlForreplacement of bearings check for tips on this visual link: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1401/how-to-replace-the-bearings-on-a-washing-mach.html

I am no tech!! Just a 57 year old grandma, but I replaced my MCU myself by looking at the spec sheet and also asking the people I bought the MCU from. I bought the matching washer/dryer (it was nearly new!) at a moving sale, used it about 5 or 6 times and "BAM!!", it started throwing a code 11. I'm a fixer type, so I started researching the problem. Take the lower front of the washer off and that's where the spec sheet is. Mine was on the right inside, as you are facing the washer. There's some info on what different codes mean. If you google this washer, there's a lot of info as well and in some cases, there's good video on youtube. I got the fix right the first time I tried! It was a little costly though because the MCU was $200 alone. If I had used a repairman, I'm sure it would have been at least twice that much. Good luck and I hope this basic info is helpful.

WASHER WILL NOT START:

Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.

Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.

Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.

Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.

Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in


Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!


All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced

Lastly CONTROL BOARD

If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures.