20 Most Recent Kenmore 22982 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Need name of Company & Model number a lot of these machines are not the same.

If this is a Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADER (such as Kenmore, Roper, Estate and certain late model Maytags), the most common cause of the symptoms you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the initial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that may not drain.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are tight. Sometimes these screws will loosen, causing the lid switch make intermittent contact. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The first three sites on the list, include helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need. The lid switch and associated components are usually listed under the "Top and Cabinet" parts listing.

NOTE: Banging or slamming the lid can actually cause more harm than good. These switches are fragile and can break easily in this manner.

The average price of a replacement lid switch is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. The lid strike (if equipped) usually costs less than $5. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.


If you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) and let me know. I hope this helps you.


NOTE: If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.

Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.

The agitator may have worked itself loose and lifted somewhat upward off the hub...try taking a wooden block and tap with a hammer while placing the block on top of the agitator.

It appears your clutch assembly has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


If the problem is the Lid Switch, it's a relatively easy fix.

See the following for how to release the console and remove the cabinet.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=fd38f4b942e68d36aa941a0a4e0c26f7

If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, AND the washer agitates without any problem, the problem is likely in the transmission.

The problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.


Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

The Sears site for your washer may have a section on the gearcase. Check in that section for a Neutral Drain repair kit.

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

OR ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load, direct drive washers with a troubleshooting section.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


The first thing to check is to try the washer on a different cycle.

Then make sure that it will drain and spin.

If it will work on a different cycle, the problem points to the timer.

If it still won't agitate and it WON'T drain or spin the problem points to the Lid Switch

If it will neither agitate, or spin but will drain, the problem points to the Motor Coupler.

I'm pretty sure what you are hearing is the outer tub sliding on the bottom frame. There are three tub wear pads located around the top of the frame between the tub and the frame. Click on this http://www.partselect.com/PartDetail.aspx?Inventory=334620&SourceCode=8 these are the parts that I think you will need. You can click on the parts select home at the top right of the page and it will take you to their home page. There you can enter your complete model number and it will bring up diagrams of your machine . Once you find these part the diagrams willshow you where these parts go. Good luck.

Yes, this is a very simple repair. The following link explains step-by-step how to replace the pump on a Kenmore top loader:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r397092-replacing_water_pump

I post this only to give you a reference to work from. If you've already figured out how to access the pump, great. Now all you need to do is remove the drain hoses and the two retaining clips that hold the pump in place.

NOTE: To minimize any mess, you may want to use a wet/dry shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain line to remove any residual water that may remain in the drain line and tub.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this is helpful to you.

Check out the link for Kenmore Parts suppliers. https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+series+200+triple+action+agitator+parts ..

If it is only leaking when you use warm water it is likely a leak from the delivery side of the hot water inlet solenoid. The only way to check is to remove the top and look. https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+80+series+washer+92281100+leaks ..

Thats a simple one to replace. Unplug unit. Take a putty knife and release clips that secure console to top. They are located on each front corner of console. Raise lid. Unplug harness from switch. Take ground screw out that is part of switch assembly. Release plastic tab that holds switch in place and remove switch. Install and snap into place new switch with lid open. Put ground screw back in place and plug harness back into place. Lower lid and then raise and listen for clicking noise. Put console back in place. That’s it.

If this is the model ('700S' is a series name), the lid is no longer available.https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/3fpuvflk1q-000583/kenmore-elite-79629272000-washer-partsSo best fixes would be silicone and liquid metal epoxy as needed.https://www.google.com/search?q=kenmore+top-load+700s+lid+replacementI also found this, if the 'rubber plug' is the pivot on the back edge, you could make one from a dowel and fix with epoxy.https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product/59z4rap6tv-0026-795/id-afg72909503..

Question edited for clarity. 'then', a moment in time. 'than', a comparison between one thing and another. It depends on the model, but usually related to the lid lock. Also check the breaker. Why does my washer stop working after filling with water? If the Top Load Washer stops after filling with water, be sure to check the house circuit breaker/fuse as well as the outlet and plug. Washers should be plugged into their own separate, dedicated outlet. ..

Usually it's the lid switch..When you open the lip look straight down usually..When you close the lid it inserts a small plastic piece that goes into the hole telling the washer the lids down..If it broke it will make the washer stop mid cycle..You can stick a wooden (only made of wood) into the hole and sometimes it will start to work..Then you know that's the problem and just get your model number of the washer and replace it..Hope this helps