Kenmore 24622 Top Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If the cap (or what appears to you to be a cap) cannot be easily removed then it may not be a cap at all. However, that said there is nothing to stop you using a good size flat blade screwdriver or cold chisel to try and GENTLY prise it off. If it doesn't give easily then it must be a cosmetic cap.Have you tried twisting the cap clockwise and anticlockwise to see if it is screwed on?Failing this, contact the manufacturer for more information. Poppa http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/poppamadison

It will pull straight up with a rope or a belt underneath the agitator.

A sledgehammer is the preffered method when dealing with a Kenmore.

simply disconnect it.

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Two possibilities:


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

If this is a basic top load, direct drive washer, luckily most mechanical parts are relatively easy to access and fix or replace. I'd hold off looking for a new washer until I checked the Lid Switch and Coupler. These are the two parts that tend to break on top load washers.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Next, see the following for how to release the console:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=fcfcd31a8e8aeeccda85d0c7abd587ba

NOTE:

Some Kenmore washers don't have removable end caps with screws underneath. These models usually have a spring clip mounted under where the end caps would be. In that case, use a thin putty knife to slip under the ends of the console to release the clips.

Also see the following Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load, direct drive washers. It details the two types of timers and how to access them.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Two possibilities:

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

Second:

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Sounds like you need a new drive belt.

The best way to find a leak in this machine is to operate it with the cabinet removed. You need to remove the trim caps on the control panel and remove the two screws in the corners. Flip the panel back on it's hinges. Unhook the lid switch harness, and pop out the two gold clips that secure the cabinet to the back panel. Tilt the cabinet back slightly and pull off of the base. With most models, you should still be able to fill the machine with the lid switch disconnected. Check the water pump first for bulging plastic or a small hole, as that's a common leak source. Hope that helps.

The small plastic pieces that are located under the agitator center cap that grip the agitator and turn it during the wash cycle are worn out. They are called agitator dog ears or clutch dogs. They must be replaced.

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the fabric softener dispenser, if there's any, by pulling it off the agitator top.
   
3. If no dispenser is installed, insert a flat screwdriver between the agitator and agitator cap. Pry the cap off the agitator then remove the upper part of the agitator.
   
4. Remove the barrier cap by pulling it up.
   
5. Use a socket wrench with extension or nut driver to remove the stud and seal holding the agitator to the shaft.
   
6. Remove the agitator mover by pulling it off the agitator.
   
7. Turn the agitator mover over on your palm. The cam and agitator dogs will come out on your palm. Pay attention to how the agitator dogs are installed. Remove the worn agitator dogs and install the new ones.
   
8. If the agitator dogs are not worn, check the agitator shaft. Remove the round rubber seal off the top of the agitator and remove the agitator by lifting it straight up. Call up service if the shaft is worn.
   
9. Reinstall the agitator. Rotate it until the grooves on the agitator matches the grooves on the shaft then push the agitator down.
10. Place the round rubber seal in the groove on the top of the agitator.
    
11. Turn the agitator mover over and carefully insert the cam and agitator dogs up into the agitator mover until it stops.
    
12. Carefully turn the agitator mover over in upright position.
    
13. Place the agitator mover with the cam and dogs over the agitator, lining up the tabs. The cam has a cut-out and tabs across from each other. The agitator has tabs across from each other. All of these must line up in order for the cam to slide down on the agitator.
    
14. Push the cam down until the tabs snap together.
    
15. Put the upper part of the agitator back.
16. Using a socket wrench with extension or nut driver, insert the stud and seal through the agitator into the shaft and tighten it.
17. Push the barrier cap and seal down into the agitator mover all the way. Make sure the round gasket is in the groove in the barrier cap. The barrier cap must be pushed down past the holes on the mover to allow the liquid from the dispenser to flow.
18. Press down on the fabric softener dispenser or cap until it is all the way down on the agitator.
    

motor is bad...hope this helps

1. Unplug machine

2. Remove two screws in back of angled top part connecting it to base, lift back up 4-6" and shift top toward front 1/2" so tabs holding front of top to machine base can disconnect.

There are filter screens where the supply hoses connect to the washer. On some brands there is a screen where the hose connects to the water valve at the wall. The screen is probably full of sediment.

Ended up calling a repair guy who charged us $191.42 ($70 for the switch and $145 for labor! What a ripoff!) And that was with a 20% discount on labor!

If it goes through the complete cycle o.k. except for the slow spin then the motor itself needs to be checked.

could be a bad pressure switch did it fill all the way is it a top loader or front loader any noise or nothing

Check out the link for Kenmore Parts suppliers. https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+series+200+triple+action+agitator+parts ..

If it is only leaking when you use warm water it is likely a leak from the delivery side of the hot water inlet solenoid. The only way to check is to remove the top and look. https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+80+series+washer+92281100+leaks ..

Question edited for clarity. 'then', a moment in time. 'than', a comparison between one thing and another. It depends on the model, but usually related to the lid lock. Also check the breaker. Why does my washer stop working after filling with water? If the Top Load Washer stops after filling with water, be sure to check the house circuit breaker/fuse as well as the outlet and plug. Washers should be plugged into their own separate, dedicated outlet. ..