Kenmore 15864/15862 Top Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

does it agitate???. if it does not then you need the motor coupling. you need to remove the cabinet, yes, I said the cabinet, remove the pump,motor and you got to the coupling. replace all part in kit. reassemble and test. go to the website of sears parts WITH THE COMPLETE MODEL. and get the part. model starts like 110.xxxxxxxxxxx

good luck to you.

Take the power plug off the wall. Be prepared for a lot of water before attempting the following. It doesn't spin because the unit is not draining water. It will not spin with water in it - must drain first. Check drain hose for kink,check exit pipe for blockage. Remove the front access panel, bottom front, screws beneath; if you find a pipe there with a cap -this is for draining water. Could be your "coin trap assembly" is blocked, therefore not allowing all the water to pump out. Remove the clamp (or unscrew) that connects the trap assembly to the pump and clean it out. If helped pl say so.

I've had the same problem...you can purchase a replacement lid switch at your local appliance parts store for about $35. Fortunatly, the sales person at the appliance store had diagrams and provided instructions to replace the switch. I was able to finish the job and fix the switch in less than 1 hour. Good Luck.

This is Sears product, call the Sear part center and tell them your model, they will find one for you. I thought it was a problem with the transmission than the timer, anyway you can try the timer first. You also can go online at www.searspartsdirect.com

Sounds like your transmission is going out. Yes washing machines do have transmissions, I know, strange huh? Anyway, the transmission is connected to your motor and the motor makes it spin and agitate. The transmission goes up into the tub and is basically the agitator. When the gears go bad in it, it will start making a loud noise almost like a grinding noise and won't spin properly or agitate. It is expensive to fix, almost as much as a new washer. Your best bet is to buy a new machine unless you can find a good deal on a refurbished transmission. Those will sometimes run only around 150 dollars. A new one though will cost you around 250. You might be able to find a good deal though. They are easy to fix, I myself replaced one in 15 minutes once when I was still a repair man for Sears. So, check out some prices and see what the best way to go is for you. If you have any questions about installing it let me know and I can give you an easy step by step walk through on it. I hope this helps you out and good luck.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Three places to look.

1. Assuming that this washer has a two piece agitator, I'd check the "agitator dogs" on the top section.

2. It's possible that the splines on the agitator have worn over time.

See the following description of how to remove the agitator.

Look inside the agitator at the splines.

3. It's also possible that the splines on the agitator shaft have worn.

With the agitator off, check the condition of the splines. If they are worn, the options are to replace the agitator shaft (disassembling the transmission) or replacing the transmission itself.

What is the model number of your unit?

If it continues to fill turned off or even unpluged, It needs to have the water valve replaced it is sticking open.

Hello,
This tip i wrote previously about that exact problem will tell you what the cause of it overfilling could be http://www.fixya.com/support/r9936873-wrong_when_washer_keep_filling_all_time


GENE

its more than likely the coupler which is easy to fix and cheap. It is located between the motor and trans, once you take off the motor the coupler is made up of three pieces. Two white plastic pieces and one black. That should do the trick!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLPGs2UMUJc

This will show you how to get to it.

Check the lid switch. If its a two wire switch you can connect the two wires together to
route around the switch for a test. If that works replace it. Call your local Appliance Parts store with your model no.
Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
Please rate me if this helped.

Please look at this video for the repair for your washer.

any sears will have that part , if you don't have one near you, they have an on line service http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action they have a phone number too, or you can chat on line with them

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
As you have already checked the hoses are not kinked and the in-line filters are clean, this is symptomatic of a malfunctioning cold water control valve. Sorry but it needs replacing and a service call to confirm that it is not something else- like the control board not feeding the correct voltage to the valve ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

chnage the water valve for the water problem and if it doesn't drain you could have a bad lid switch or something going on with the pump,something could be stuck in it or it's bad.open and close the lid down if you don't hear a clicking sound it's broke or stick a screw driver into the hole that the lid switch closes into,keep the washer in spin and see if it drains when you push the screw driver down in the hole

Hi, W/D here.
You probably have mineral deposits in your cold water supply line, or possibly a bad solenoid.
To check the water line, shut off the cold water line at the wall faucet. Disconnect the water hose from the faucet. Be careful as there will be some water pressure relieved when you do this. Once the hose is loose, look into the end of the hose. You should see a screen behind a hose washer. If there is debris on the screen, remove the washer and then the screen and clean it. If the screen is not located there (sometimes they get reversed), you'll need to pull the other end of the hose off of the washer and check that end in the same way.
Try this first, and if this doesn't fix you up, please repost, and we'll go through the solenoid removal process.
Best regards, --W/D--
Please feel free to rate our solutions so that we may continue to help others. Thanks.

this is mainly because of having some problem in water drainage system. so make your drainage syatem proper

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11029812890/0582/0153200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=11029812890


and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the section for the basket and tub assembly's

I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131

If the hoses are fine, check the shaft from the motor to the pump and check inside the pump to make sure the inlet and outlet aren't blocked.

I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.

If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.

If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.

(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.


https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.