20 Most Recent Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

unplug for a few min. then plug back in .

Your washing drum is spring balanced and your
motor has rubber shocks to keep it balanced so check
both for damage. _( cracks in rubber shocks and breaks in
washing drum spring or springs ) Also springs or rubber
shocks are no longer fastened to motor or chassis.

the pump is blocked or the pump could be bad and need to be replaced.remove the bottom panel.if water is still in the tub,get a shop vac and vac out the water,then you'll see in the middle of the pump a piece that unscrews.turn it slowly counter clockwise,when the water starts to leak vac it up until it stops leaking and remove the middle piece out of the pump,clean out the catch,put the piece back in,add a little water to the machine and put it on drain,if it drains then you are done,if it doesn't you'll need a new pump.call your parts store,give them the model number and they will sell you the correct pump.good luck,if you need any more help let me know and send the model number

Find the HE3 manual here for download.

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:

- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).

NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.

NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.

- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.

- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.

Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 - is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.

NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.

If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.

If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

i just had this problem... i did the following (should only take 30 minutes) take the panel off, that is located below the front door,, there are 3 small srews located at the bottom that hold this... then you will see the water pump, the water pump has a access srew plug, when you unscrew this, its like a filter, you may see stuff, like coins, socks, etc, remove and clean it, then put everything back... this should fix the issue.

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

This is a guide to locating and cleaning the pump filter for most Whirlpool made front-load machines, such as Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana etc. Keep in mind some Kenmore are made by LG, Samsung, Frigidaire among others.

Here`s how to find it, check it and clean it... A wet-dry shop vac is handy in this situation.

If it is in a position close to a floor drain, you wont need the wet-dry vacuum or towels...it's your call.

**Turn off the breaker at the service panel or unplug the washer from the wall socket...safety first**

1) locate the screws in front at the very bottom of the panel below the door and pull the panel down and forward until it is off. They will be either 1/4" hex head or #20 torx head screws.

2) You will immediately see the drain pump in front of you with a large removable filter. ( **see image below...this is were a wet-dry shop vac and towels come in handy, also the use of the removed panel as a catch pan is beneficial...but you may still get wet ) 3) Turn it counter-clockwise should allow you to remove it and inspect it and clean it out. Make a good thorough inspection inside the pump as well not just the removable filter.

4) Re-insert the filter and before placing the panel back run a test rinse/drain cycle to inspect for leaks and to verify the unit drains and spins now.

5) If all appears OK after your efforts, well your efforts paid off...refasten the lower panel. Now You should be good to go.
**I also recommend inspecting the "check ball" within the bellows from time to time as well. To access it is as follows...** It is inside the bellows which connects the tub to the pump as shown below. There is a large clamp which secures it to the tub, but if you remove it to clean out all the dirt built up inside, make sure you get it good and secure when putting it back.**
Hope that answers your question. Let me know how it goes and if you require further assistance.

Thanks for choosing FixYa. Please take a moment to rate the solution provided for you here today.

Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Unplug unit then You can open the door, then remove the spring loaded clamp that secures the door boot (rubber) to the front panel, carefully pull the door boot away just where the door latch is (no reason to completely remove) remove the 3 screws securing the door latch to the front panel..Then reach behind the panel and pull the latch towards the opening the give just enough wiring to do so undo the 3 wiring connectors to the latch assy. then pull out the rest of the way Reverse the procedure to reinstall

The F02 error code is for a long drain. (See image below).

Without a model number I am only able to provide you with generic instructions. I have included a set of illustrated instructions you will need to check drain pump filter. (See images below). Once the bottom panel is removed the drain pump filter cover looks like a gas cap. Remove that and then remove any foreign objects. If the drain pump is clear it probably needs to be replaced.

Hello there:
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool and Kenmore have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it. The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

Hi.

F4 means that there is a problem with the pressure switch.

Here an article explaining how to diagnose F4 problem.

Yes, you can. But you use much less. HE detergent is low sudsing. Using a full amount of detergent will result in getting error codes related to the over production of suds. We use regular detergent and have cut the amount by about 50%, with no issues. IF you use non he detergent, you may void your warranty, if anyone ever asks.
Best regards, --W/D--

This could be the MCU which on an HE3 2009 3.8 cu ft washer front load appears to be the most common problem. This leads to the F71 because the MCU and the CCU are not able to communicate. Can be accompanied by no lights.

F06 indicates a drive tach error. Remove all connectors, one at a time, from all control boards and replace back in position, being sure they are tight. Most of these faults are caused by poor connections, especially when they are intermittent.

The error code F2 indicates a long drain, when the drain time exceeds 8 minutes (see images below). If you have a volt/ohm meter and are comfortable working around live electricity I can give you a few checks that will help you diagnose the problem. If you are not already sure you can perform these checks safely and competently, refer this work to a qualified professional. Working with live electrical current can be very hazardous and possibly deadly. Testing voltage output requires working with electrical current. Do not attempt these measurements without the proper tools and safeguards. I have included a set of illustrated instructions (See below). These should step you through the process of checking the drain system of your washer.

• You will need to ohm the drain pump. To ohm the drain pump gain access to the CCU (Central Control Unit), find the DP2 connector and disconnect it from the CCU. Ohm the 2 wires going down to the drain pump. It should ohm around 15 ohms.
  • If not the drain pump is bad and will need to be replaced.
• Check the drain hoses for clogs or kinks.
• Make sure the drain pump filter is clear.
• Reseat and check all wiring connections from the pump to the CCU.
• If the problem is not corrected, replace the drain pump.

This is common for front loader washers. They make cleaner that you run through your washer once or twice a year to correct this problem. Take a look at this page there is a link to where you can buy some of the cleaner under the section called clean washer http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/dryer-maintenance.html