Our stackable dryer starts to squeak loudly after a few minutes and continues until the end of the cycle. This is so loud that you can hear it from outside. It seems to dry the clothes fine but the squealing and screeching is almost unbearable. Any solutions or suggestions? Thanks. Tracy Miller
Posted by TracyMille... on
If the dryer model number begins with 417, the drum is supported by a ball bearing in back, and a seal and glides up front. Often, the bearing will become very dry, either from years of use, or from excessive lint blowing up into the bearing. If the bearing isn't cracked or otherwise noticeably bad, you can usually solve the issue simply by lubing the bearing with a high temp grease. While the machine is apart...(a major pain in the butt), make sure to check the condition of the seal and glides on the front panel, and replace the belt if it looks at all cracked or frayed.
If this dryer is not a 417 and/or does not have a rear bearing, it's best to get a maintainance kit (belt, idler pulley and drum rollers) and install all the aforementioned parts, as they are the most likely source of screech. Also, check the motor by spinning the shaft manually with the belt off....if that is squeeking, it's motor
Posted on Jan 17, 2008
kenmore stackable washer dryer is leaking from bottom
Posted by cherylbryc... on
1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.
2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.
3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.
WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.
4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.
There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.
5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.
WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.
Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.
6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.
If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.
Replace any valves that are cracked.
Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.
If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.
Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.
The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.
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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
After the final spin and the machine has stopped there is still a lot of water in the machine.
Posted by shayshay87... on
There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.
It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.
First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.
As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.
With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.
A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.
As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!
When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
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Posted on Sep 17, 2010
Our washer has recently started creating holes in our clothes. It appears that they somehow get caught in the holes of the washer and torn up. We would appreciate any help! Thanks you in advance!
Posted by Andrew79 on
We purchace a washer and dryer in Dec 08 Kenmore HE energy star. They started destroying cloth about 2 months after purchace.
under our warranty and many many calls they sent a new set. 2 months later same problem. HELP
Posted on Jan 21, 2010
Can anyone tell me how to replace the heating element in this Kenmore stackable dryer. I have the coil heating element, just don't know how to access it. THANKS. Del
Posted by delski on
hi thanks for the question just underneath the dryer on the front theres a panel remove this panel the element is on the right thanks for the question the appliance doc
Posted on Sep 15, 2008
why does my washing machine in spin mode always sounds off balance with a terrable banging sound that i could hear out side
Posted by popcycle on
Try lifting the inner drum to check if there is any movement between the inner and outer drums, also turn the drum and listen for any grinding or scraping sound from the rear of the drum. Its possible that your bearings have gone out & need to be replaced. The job is far from easy.
Posted on Jun 17, 2008
How do I find the appropriate wiring diagram in order to disconnect the wire responsible for the loud dryer buzzer?
Kenmore Stackable Washer/dryer
Posted by captain... on
The wiring diagram is located in the slanted panel above the washer door
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
My Kenmore 98702 washer Fills and agitates as expected but stops at the end of cycle failing to drain or spin. If knob is manually moved from drain cycle to rinse unit will agitate but not drain or spin. When in drain or spin unit is quiet making no noise. I would hate to spend a lot of money chasing various potential problems. Any help would be appreciated.
Posted by Opcop on
My Kenmore 98702 washer Fills and agitates as expected but stops at the end of cycle failing to drain or spin
Posted on Dec 13, 2007
Could this be the motor?
Posted by trippingpa... on
could be belts slipping or a bad motor going - what's it smell like - burning rubber or an electrical smell?
Posted on Aug 29, 2007
The stackable dryer gets small parts of clothes, i.e. the tie in a hoodie sweatshirt; the ******** my child's overalls, stuck in the edge of the dryer and leaves brown marks on them almost like they have burned. Is this fixable?
Posted by TikiTime on
I have had this same problem with my stack-able dryer. It was leaving small burns on my kids clothes and my good sheets. My dryer has a felt-like seal at the front of the drum. If this seal is worn, torn, or missing, the clothes in the dryer can get caught and scorched or torn in the space between the clothes drum and the front of the dryer interior. My seal was worn out, so I needed to replace it. I had someone come in and do the work the first time but when it wore out again I just order the part and replaced it myself. It is fixable:)
Posted on Apr 08, 2008
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