20 Most Recent Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer - Page 4 Questions & Answers


You may have a short in that circuit or a bad breaker.

Kenmore 98702... | Answered on May 31, 2014


Model# 110.88752799 Kenmore stacker washer/dryer

Q; How do I remove the front control panel? (to remove the timer dial, to replace a switch, etc)

A: reference diagram- http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/printSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fK1105180-00001.png

-remove four crews (#8 on diagram) from left and right sides.
-remove one screw (at #21 on diagram) from the bottom of the panel.
-remove #7 panel from the left and right side
- this will expose a thin metal catch (#9) on each side. With a small finger or screw driver, push down on the top of this metal strip where it bends horizontally. This will compress the spring (#14) and release the catch.
- the control panel will fold down now.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/printSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fK1105180-00001.png

Kenmore 98702... | Answered on May 02, 2014


I have one of those Kenmore "Laundry Center" stacked washer/dryer units. It comes built that way - it is not two units stacked on top of one another (if there is such a thing).

My guess is that it is at least 13-14 years old now (it came with the house I bought) and about 3-4 years ago, it also stopped heating. The dryer would run for a couple of hours and all of the clothes would still be damp and the air in the dryer was not warm or hot.

I searched online and found that the usual cause is the heating element wire was probably burned out if the dryer was otherwise running all right. I found some repair instructions online and the procedures to take the dryer apart (can't recall where - just Google it).

The heating element is like a long coiled resistance wire, similar to what you would see in a toaster but heavier duty. It is strung in a circle behind the dryer drum tub to heat the air that enters the dryer.

If you've ever looked into a toaster when toasting, you'll notice that that thin resistance wire glows red hot which generates the heat. Now imagine that thin wire being red hot and the dryer tumbling, causing constant vibration. It's amazing that the heater resistance wire doesn't break more often!

A pretty handy DIY-er can take the dryer apart and replace the heater wire, but the challenge is getting the stacked unit out in the open somewhere where you can work on it. You need a fair bit of room.

My advice would be to also buy the drum belt replacement kit to also replace that at the same time. If you're going to go to the trouble of taking the dryer apart to replace the heater wire, you might as well replace the drive belt and associated felt pad, etc. at the same time. You DON'T want to have to take the dryer apart again a little later to change that part when it breaks. (It's like a timing belt on your car - if you're doing major work on your car and have the engine apart and it's "about time" to replace the timing belt per the manufacturer's maintenance schedule, might as well do it a the same time to save on repeating the labor again.)

Kenmore 98702... | Answered on Apr 23, 2014


It on the heating element housing on back of dryer. It call a linkfuse.

Kenmore 98702... | Answered on Apr 10, 2014

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