20 Most Recent Kenmore 74602 Gas Dryer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Coil valves need to be replaced.they are the 2 black rounded on top of module where gas line goes into.aout 35 bucks for both.

the coils on your gas valve are going out , this is why it will work at first and stop , the coils heat up and wont open the valve again after they are heated.
I thought they were some what cheaper than they are now but still not too bad. you can try this part number search on ebay for the best price I can find.

279137 coil kit
Phil

could be that you have a bad radiant sensor. or timer? unplug the unit and check continuity across the radiant sensor, you should have continuity. the radiant sensor is attached to the left side of the flame tube. make sure you remove one of the terminals first from it to get a more accurate reading. if that is good you should have one more fuse inside of there it is usually small and round with 2 wires going to it and it is also usually attached to the flame tube. you should have continuity if not this would be your problem. let me know if you have any other questions.

Do you hear a snap when it first starts? If yes check the ignitor. If no check the thermal fuse and/or the thermostat.
Eric

First make sure that your exhaust pipe going outside is completely clear. Also you may need to clean the lint out of the drier. If you take the lint catcher assembley off on the inside, ther will be alot of lint inside. Just clean out what you can by hand, then vacuum out the rest. This should take care of your problem.

sounds like you have a bad fuse. does yours have a kick panel? sounds like you have a bad timer and fuse.

Bad thermal fuse

It should be on the flame tube , small round part with 2 wires , it may be hiding toward the back of the tube or built on a bracket close by it.
Phil

Is the ignitor glowing when you set for heat?
If so,
Your flame sensor mounted just outside the heat canister may be bad.
Your gas valve coils may be bad.

Its possible that sometime when you were touching the wires that something came unplugged, or moved and short circuited

A fuse is tested using the continuity or resistance (ohm) setting on a multimeter.

Disconnect the power to the dryer. Disconnect the leads to the fuse. With the meter set on continuity, the meter should beep - if you set to ohms, you should read 0 ohms across the terminals of the fuse. If you read infinity, the fuse is bad.

Possibly change in the baffles or something in the blower housing.

pf indicates a Power Failure, press start to resume cycle (if in operation at time of fault) or turn off for 5 seconds and turn back on, error code should be cleared.

please take the time to rate this solution

IF LESS THAN 10-YEARS OLD/CHECK THE TUMBLER BELT AND BAND.IF 10-YEARS+ REPLACE YOUR MOTOR OR BUY A NEW DRYER.***ALSO UNPLUG THE DRYER AND MAKE SURE ALL YOUR WIRES ARE TIGHT.

repl/ drum rollers that its should fix the knocking noise

motor needs to replaced

No heat at all? does the top of the machine heat up, but not the drum? could be your drum seal is damaged or slipped off.
If the firebox doesn't light up, could be your igniter, the unit's safety switch, thermocouple, or regulator; Your Gas Company may provide a service that would check it for you... some do.

hello,

i have a kenmore series 70's gas dryer that will not heat up when it is turned on and i am now smelling gas when i do try to dry my clothing. it was working yesterday but now this is happening? please help.

thank you,

tina

i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.