20 Most Recent Janome MyLock 634D Mechanical Sewing Machine - Page 4 Questions & Answers

could you explain more about the problem

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Manual for your Janome 534 D, with bonus.....HERE

Manual for your Janome 184 D, with BONUS....HERE

You need to disengage the cutting blade by openingfirstly opening the front and left hand side covers. pull on the larger of the two silver knobs and slide the red lever towards you. I'm not sure what the tension settings are, but I'm certain you need to reduce them a fair bit to aid in the rolling effect. I only use 3 threads when doing a rolled hem.
My description isn't too detailed but I hope it helps!

For knits with lycra in, you are best to thread up four threads and seam with the 4 thread marrowing stitch like this, preferabbly with ball point needles in your overlocker, size 80. Use cones of polyester thread, 3,000 metres or 5,000 metres rather than normal thread. (Although if you have trouble matching thread colours you can use a small reel on the left needle as this is the thread that will show on the right side of the garment.)Start with your machine tensions on 5, both needles in and threaded, stitch length of 2.5 and no differential (set it on zero) and test stitch. Using stretch or ballpoint needles is a good idea too to avoid any deflection and skipped stitches. Then practice serging on some fabric scraps, double layer and look at the seam, if it is tunnelling (pulling up the fabric), then move the cutting blade to the left. Test again and if still tunnelling, then loosen off the tension on the top and bottom loopers by a half number and test again. If the opposite is happening and the threads are looping off the edge of the fabric, then move the cutting blade to the right to trim less fabric, test again. If still too loose, then tighten up the top and bottom looper tensions by a small amount and test again.You want the seam to lie flat, the two looper threads to meet right on the cut edge and the needle thread to be just visible from the right side when you press open the seam.There is always a small amount of adjustments needed on an overlocker when setting up for a new project as every fabric will behave differently. Don't tighten up the tension on the needles much past 5 though, or you may get thread breakage.If you find that the seam is flutting then you can use the differential feed to adjust for this too. There is some good overlocking info on Debbie Cosgroves website, www.sewing.about.com, with images which may help too.

can you hear the engine humming when you plug it in? if so, that eliminates electrical supply to the engine.If you manually turn the flywheel towards you does the loopers and needles move through a stitch sequence? If yes, then its not the main drive gears inside. If there is no movement or if a looper just "flops" around, you've got an internal drive problem, probably time to take it to a technician.Lastly, check that the looper cover and side cover are fully closed as they will have safetly cutouts on the doors that prevent the machine from operating when the door is still not fully closed.

I don't think so, the D in your model name would denote that it has Differential feeding but is probably a 3/4 Marrowing stitch only. So this means it would do 3 thread overlock, 4 thread overlock and you can probably set it up for rolled hemming too.Coverstitch is fairly new to home sergers and is available on some machines along with the 3 and 4 thread stitches, but changing between the regular overlock and a coverstitch takes a few minutes. The model number will usually have a "C" in the name. Also, during coverstitch the blades are disenaged and don't trim your fabric so you still need often to go back with blunt scissors and trim the raw edge.And sewing coverstitch can be finicky, with skipped stitches a problem. Use high quality thread and XL (extra long) or SUX (stretch extra long) needles to avoid this. However some manufacturers are now making dedicated coverstitch machines; if you are assembling a garment with your regular serger, you can then just move over to the coverstitch machine to sew the hems and necklines and not spend 20 mins changing over your machine's functions. Much more productive. You may wish to check out the Brother 2340CV, this is their dedicated domestic coverstitch machine. Link to product info is http://www.brother-usa.com/homesewing/ModelDetail.aspx?ProductID=2340CVIn the meantime, best solution is a twin needle to stitch the hem from the right side of the garment on your regular sewing machine, looks much the same, and you can get twin needles with a 4mm or 2.2 mm gap and in stretch and sharp tips for less than $10 each. Just iron up the hem about 1.5cm deep, and thread up your sewing machine with the twin needle and two spools of same colour on top (I just wind an extra bobbin and use this plus the original thread spool rather than buy two spools). Just sew really slow as the twin needle builds up a lot of heat and will break if you push it along. I use this finish on all my knit garments and it works just fine. Sometimes I'll iron in a 2cm strip of fusible web inside the hem to give it some firmness in a neckline, then twin needle stitch at about 1.7 from the folded edge. Hope this answers your question.

If you are in the USA you can cCall Janome head office on 1-800-631-0183, ext. 774.Their address is: Janome America, Inc.10 Industrial Ave. Ste. 2Mahwah, NJ 07430 Or go to your nearest Internet Janome retailer, the list is here http://content.janome.com/index.cfm/FindaDealer?action=listInternetRetailers Just make sure if it is a foot control and power lead combination, that you get it in the right voltage for your machine. IE USA, 110V but Australia will be 240V.If you are in another country then start here http://janome.com/chooser/ and chose your country, to find the Janome website for your location, and then go to the Contact Us page to find contact details.Hope this helps you to locate a new foot control.

I presume you mean that the lower looper thread is breaking; are you sure that the thread is not snagging somewhere on the aerial, on the thread stand or on one of the thread guides? Is the aerial fully extended? You need the clearance so the thread can flow off the cones quickly.Also, some overlockers have a little slide device on the lower looper to make threading up easier, you slide it over to access the thread guide, then slide it back into position to stitch. Is yours like this; and if so, is it back into the right position.If you are absolutely certain that your threading up is correct then I'd be looking at the tension dial on the lower looper. Give it a clean, reseat the thread into it, and test if it is tensioning correctly. Pull the thread from below the tension on 3, then turn up to 5 or 6, does it feel significantly tighter to pull? Turn down to zero, does it pull through easily?.If the above doesn't resolve the issue, then perhaps time for a professional service, perhaps the tension device is faulting or the timing is slightly out.