20 Most Recent GE WBSE2090A Top Load Washer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

You quite possibly just have a broken drive belt. This will allow most functions to work but it won't spin the tub.

If you disconnected both hoses and there is no water flow, remove the sediment filters at the feed end of the hoses and clean them out. Before you reconnect them, flush about 2-3 cups of water through the pipes to clean out the junk.

check your inlet vavle...check that fill hoses are on proper

Could be an air lock in the water pipes,turn off the water to the washer, disconnect the hoses, and hold them over the sink or into a bucket, then turn the water taps back on to the washer.
The water should come through at full pressure.,
If it does not , then the problem is with your supply and not the washer.
Hope this helps.
Plz leave feedback.
Ta.

Hi,

Initially and based on your description, one strong possibility is that the seal on the bottom of the drum is faulty. This seal acts as a cover for the bearing underneath. Although this is repairable, most techs would not go through the trouble of replacing the bearing alone since it is force fit into the drum. The normal procedure is the replacement of the entire drum assembly, rather expensive. Due to this your posted comment of considering purchase of a new unit may have more merit. Depending on the design, in some other versions, rather than the bearing, it could be the differential.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

coupling between motor and drive assy broken. take motor loose and you can get it out. Visual check first to see if motor is running when in agitate cycle.

Take the hoses off the back of the machine and clean out the screen inside where the hoses where attached. Also check both ends of the hoses to make sure there are no screened hose washers there which need to be cleaned or replaced. If all clear, a new water inlet valve may be needed, but most likely it is just the screens in the inlet valve.

bad lid switch?mike

If you hear a humming, the coil on the water valve is probably OK. On warm, you are getting cold fill only. (hot + cold = warm) Take the hot water supply hose off the machine and look inside where the hose attached to the washer. There should be a screen inside. Remove it and clean it out. Also, check both ends of the supply hose, as sometimes you will find a screened washer in there too.

sounds like you need a drum bairing kit try ebay or the net or if you need more help let me now ill do a search for you

Repair requires replacement of the transmission / break assembly. Unless you are really attached to this machine, it's time for a new machine. Average life of a washer is about 11 years doing 8 loads per week. Look into the front load machines, which use about 1/4 the water and spin about twice as fast, and are gentle on fabrics while cleaning very well. Please don't bother rating this, as non FixYa ratings drop my rating, and I'm sure you don't want to shoot the messenger.

Turn water cold water valve off by hose. Unscrew hose from both ends. Clean out filter inside the end of the washer water valve where the hose was connected to the machine. Check to make sure there is not a screened washer in either end of the hose which may also need cleaning. Reattach and turn water back on.

if you have a rubber smell that means that the belt is burning through. Several problems can be the case.
1 bearing of the drum ( check if it turns freely if so the bearing is ok)\
2 the belt is worn and need to be replaced.
3 carbon brushes in motor are worn
4 bearing in motor is gone

open the backside of the machine and check belt.
think that is your problem

Most machines have a back panel held on with a half-dozen screws; several around the edges in back and perhaps another couple somewhere in the middle going to a brace.
Before you even move the machine, I would recommend bailing most of the water out since the machines are hard to move with 80-100# of water in them.
The front and sides are typically bound together and have to be lifted free after a few screws are removed from the lower edge of the housing that attach it to a frame. It shouldn't be necessary to take that much off to find the problem.
If you have a Johnstone Supply in your area and need a pump or belt, they will likely have it and at a much lower price than a GE dealer. They sell mostly to tradespeople but I have never been turned away. 
Be sure to have plenty of old towels handy to catch some of the water if you have to remove the pump; they make a heck of a mess otherwise ;-)

I had a problem almost like yours. The hose attached to the load size switch had a clog in it, and the washer wouldn't fill with water or spin. Will need to take the front panal off to check the whole line.

There is a mixing valve normally located (and part of) the threaded connection for the hoses on the back of the machine.
These are junk when new and fail often.
The water heater replacement may have resulted in some ‘stuff’ getting into the lines and interfering with the mixer operation.

If one source is working and the other isn't, you may have screens at both ends of the water hoses and one end is clogged.

Removing the back panel is pretty easy and the valve is normally not tough to reach and often held in place by 1 or 2 screws only, with 1/4" or 3/8" heads.

If you have a Johnstone Supply in your area, the part will cost about half as much as from GE or Sears.

If it is doing it regardless of setting water temperature to hot or cold, then the water control valve to which the hoses are attached has failed.
These are junky when new, not generally expensive or difficult to replace.

If one source is working and the other isn't, you may have screens at both ends of the water hoses and one end is clogged.

Removing the back panel is pretty easy and the valve is normally not tough to reach and often held in place by 1 or 2 screws only with 1/4" or 3/8" heads.

If you have a Johnstone Supply in your area, the part will cost about half as much as from GE or Sears.

direct drive has broken simple 3 dollar part and changing out is simple turn washer over after disconnect take out motor you will see this part


it comes in 2 parts they both fit together this is direct drive
put back together way you took out motor too and then turn upright connect everything and turn on washer this should be the problem
also since your down there under washer replaceing part get appliance oil and oil all major movable motor mechanical parts

yes !! carefully with a flat screwdriver open the front panel, its snaps , hope it helps AJ

Hi,

If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Goodluck..