20 Most Recent GE DVL223GB Gas Dryer Questions & Answers

If your dryer only runs when you hold the start button in, you probably have a broken dryer belt or it came off inside. There is a belt safety switch near the motor that if the belt comes off or breaks, it won't let the dryer run. There are 2 screws in the top lip of the door area that the door would close against facing up into the dryer top. Remove the screws and lift the top up. If you don't see a skinny black belt around the drum, it broke and fell down inside.

If it has a static igniter check to see if it is trying to ignite. They are not expensive and easy to replace.

It might be igniter problem or dirty gas line or defective valves or controllers or control board or even clogged nozzle The safest way is get help from local service centre for any gas operated appliances

check the start button, if it runs with a jumper, the switch is bad

Hi lil indreams...

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.
Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.
Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.
This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.

While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
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It sounds like the drum is off balance, the drum could be scrapping along the side of the dryer. Check for a loose bolt on the drum assembly. Once it starts running the drum levels out and the scrapping noise goes away

I have more HERE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

http://www.applianceaid.com/gas_dryer.html#odour

ALWAYS UNPLUG ANY APPLIANCE AND TURN OFF THE GAS VAVE BEHIND THE DRIER BEFORE ATTEMTING TO MOVE IT. I HAVE REPAIRED GAS FIRED EQUIPMENT FOR YEARS ...ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOU LOCATE YOUR GAS METER IN THE HOUSE OR OUTSIDE AND HAVE A ADJUSTABLE WRENCH READY. I HAD A GAS VALVE BREAK-OFF IN MY HAND AND, A FLEX-LINE BREAK WHEN I MOVED A DRIER ... I WAS LUCKY I KNEW WHERE THE METER WAS. YOU CANT BE TOO SAFE !!! THE ONLY WAY TO CHECK A BELT IS TO REMOVE IT ... THERE IS A SEPERATE ADJUSTABLE PULLEY THAT ADJUST THE BELT TENSION (USUALLY LOCATED AT THE BOTTOM OF DRIER BELOW THE DRUM NEAR THE DRIVE MOTOR) YOU MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE TO LOOSEN THIS ADJUSTABLE PULLEY TO REMOVE THE BELT. FIND A CLEAR AREA WHERE THE BELT IS NOT ON THE SRUM AND PRESS ON THE BELT ... THERE SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 1/2" OF "PLAY" ( MOVEMENT)IN THE BELT AFTER YOU REMOVE THE BELT ... TURN IT IN-SIDE OUT. AND SLOWLY ROTATE IT ... INSPECTING EVERY INCH FOR CRACKS AND EVSERSIVE SIDE WEAR. IF THERE ARE ANY CRACKS, VISABLE PLYS (LAYERS) OF THE BELT CAN BE SEEN, OR IT IS REAL SHINNY ON THE SIDES... THE BELT SHOULD BE REPLACED. WHILE THE BELT IS OFF ... USE YUR HAND AND SPIN THE DRUM TO CHECK FOR ANY WOBBLE.... THERE SHOULD BE NO WOBLING ... IF THERE IS IT MAY INDICATE BAD BEARINGS... HOPE THIS HELPED

Probably nothing more than a good cleaning is all it needs.
Some repair photos: HERE
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

I believe your problem is the rear drum pivot and bearing.On high heat you would hear i squeak per rpm

A couple of things could be causing this, first one of your elements are probably going bad. Try this first. Pull out the lent holder and clean area well. Remove air vent hose and clean/vacuum into vent housing and also exit leaving home. Make sure hosing is clean. When you put dryer back make sure that the hose is not kinked. After all this if it does not heat as it should you might want to check out craigslist for another one. You can get a good deal for around 50-70. Your wasting more electric trying to dry your clothes. Hope this helps. Let me know if I can help you with anything else.
JimmyC

what is the make/model of your dryer and does it have an electronic display? different solutions apply to different models thank you

It is your operating thermostat. It controls the heat and runs the timer down. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c