20 Most Recent GE Profile Harmony DPGT750GC Gas Dryer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Hi, If you have a gas dryer.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...

Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

Gas Dryer not Working Gas Dryer Not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

If your dryer is electric..
There could be a number of different problems...
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

Dryer Troubleshooting Electric Dryer won t Heat
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

heatman101

Hi,
If you have a gas dryer.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...

Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

If your dryer is electric..
There could be a number of different problems...
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

heatman101

Check the dryer drainage. It can occur if the outlet is clogged.

The model number you gave is for a gas dryer.
You will not find a thermal fuse in this dryer.
Your problem with no heat most likely lies in the gas valve or its subcomponents like the thermistor/flame sensor or igniter/glow coil.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

This is a classic case of things being overcomplicated for what they do.

I think there will be a bad connection to the LCD, or failure of the LCD driver if everything else works ok.

Unfortunately, it is likely the whole display assembly is needed as a replacement. They will be available from the manufacturer, but won;t be cheap.

If there were no problems before replacing drum I would go back and make sure all 3 wiring connections are made behind the door panel. From there this machine is too complex to diagnose over the phone.

Replace the blower motor. Check condition of blower wheel and replace if found defective

check the drive belt ... if broken, thank your luckey stars it was not the motor ... could be the motor start circuit.

I am not a repair professional. I am just a 78 year old
man who has been making his own repairs for about
50 years. Therefore the washer or dryer ID doesn't
mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a
schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and
discovered that more than 4,700 people were asking
for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer
repair of my own and found an excellent video which
showed me how to take my machine apart. This
video made it possible for me to do my own repair. I
was so impressed with the video that when I saw all
these people needing help, I wanted to tell them
about it. If you have a top loader (washer) of the
direct drive type, this video might be a Godsend for
you. If you look at the back of your washer and the
panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove)
chances are you have a direct drive and this video
is just what you need. You can see this video at
www.acmehowto.com You will probably need
more help in determining what the problem is and
how to fix it. If your repair problem is a washer or
dryer I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com
where they have very good trouble shooting and
repair information on most washers and dryers.
I think you'll find what you need there. Don't worry
about the timer, they hardly ever go bad. Good
luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my
advice on fixya.

First make sure that the gas valve is on. Then verify that the gas connector is not kinked or restricted. then remove the connector at the back of the dryer and make sure there is gas pressure. Then visually inspect the pipe at the back of the dryer. Use a flashlight to inspect inside the pipe and make sure there is no debris inside the pipe that could restrict gas flow. On this dryer there is no removable burner door cover on the front or inspection window so you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer. Once the panel is removed you can turn on the dryer. You should first hear a click sound. That is the first gas solenoid valve opening. Then the igniter should start to glow. Once the igniter reaches 2200 degrees the secondary gas solenoid valve should click and the burner will come on. If you do not hear a click when the dryer is first turned on you will need test the first gas solenoid valve. Make sure it is getting voltage with a fluke meter. You can also touch a piece of metal to the top of the valve and the top should be magnetized when active. If you hear the first click but no igniter glow then verify the igniter is getting voltage and test the igniter with a fluke meter. You will need to test the ohms and most should be 500 to 700 ohms. If the igniter does not get a good reading or none it is probably defective and needs replacement. Usually most places that sell appliance parts will test the igniter for free. Just because the igniter glows does not mean that it is good. It can glow but not reach the 2200 degrees needed for the proper operation. Now if the igniter is good and you hear a second click then there might be a restriction somewhere in the gas line between the solenoids or the gas orfice at the burner. The sensor Gort was talking about is the flame rectification sensor and can detect the flame. It is rare for this to be faulty but not impossible. If you get flame for a couple seconds and then it shuts off it could be this sensor. Blow the burner assembly and this area off with compressed air and lint can block the sensor's ability to detect the burner flame. Also I believe your dryer has a larger fan blower than standard dryers. If this blower motor is not working the rest of the system will not come on. make sure the assist fan is working and that the vacuum switch is working and not stuck. Also check the vacuum line is not disconnected or restricted. And always remember that there are exposed power connections inside the dryer that could shock you and cause injury. use caution and if you do not feel comfortable working on this you might want to call a professional.

Marty, you need to remove the front cover on these and most dryers by removing lower front kick panel screws, then remove the front cover and then you access the top cover screws to remove top cover then you can access th drum belt

the drum is easy to replace, you need to remove the control panel and the top of the dryer to get the front panel off the dryer. Make any connectors so you know what way to hook them up again just to be safe. After you have all of this apart, relieve the tension on the strap that go's around the drum. Replace the drum and and reinstall everything in reverse. I don't have the link to the repair manual here at work, but I did find it here. Read it over and take you time, it's really not a hard item to replace.

Where are you located, I have a heating problem and if I don't fine the answer to fix it will more then likely toss mine out and could part out the known good parts.

Harry

I went to GE's website and found the solution there. Just enter "problem detected service" in the search bar and use the result for the washer - it's the same diagnostic tool. Follow the instructions and you're good to go.

the humimg you hear is from the motor,check the blower wheel that is below the lint filter,if a sock or something gets sucked into the blower the motor can't spin,check the belt,if it is jamed the motor can't spin,if these things check good you have a bad motor