Top 20 GE Freezer  14.8 Cu. Ft. Manual Defrost Chest Freezer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

All fridge and freezers should be plugged into an NON-GFCI protected outlet, since the inital start of the compressor can cause the GFCI to detect a millivolt surge, when the compressor starts, causing the GFCI to trip.

If this is in a kitchen, you should change out the outlet to a non-GFCI outlet BUT only to a single outlet that only has the freezer plugged into.

If it's in a basement, garage, or some other place with a GFCI outlet, you can change out that one outlet to a standard single outlet device of which ONLY the freezer will be plugged into and remain code compliant. You will need to make sure that any other outlets served by that current GFCI outlet stay protected, by installing the GFCI you swap out, and put it in place of the NEXT outlet in the circuit.

By doing that, you will have the first outlet that was the GFCI, now a single outlet NON-GFCI serving the freezer, but the next outlet in the branch circuit gets a GFCI outlet, thus protecting the rest of the circuit, in compliance with the NEC (National Electric Code)

If you need further help with this, please comment back and I'll check back later and provide you more detailed info. Of course, be sure to turn off the breaker to this circuit before making any changes to the outlets, etc.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Hi,

My first target would be to check Thermostat. The procedure to check thermostat would be :-

http://www.ehow.com/how_2167621_troubleshoot-refrigerators-thermostat.html

Then, you can check defrost timer ( Defrost control ). The procedure is :-


http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/check/defrosttimer.php

Once done, let me know the update.

Thanks.

I have reviewed your problem and have the fallowing for you to aces.
First, if the unit is not making ICE, it could be for several reasons.
1. The temperature inside the unit, is not low enough to generate a cycling of the Ice Maker. ( Not Cold Enough ).
2. Water can be restricted at some point, either at the solenoid or outlet, at ice maker.
3. The Ice Maker itself has a mechanical problem.
My suggestions would be to pull out the unit and check the fallowing.
A. Make sure the Condensor coil is clean and not matted with de-bree, restricting air flow across the coil.
B. Condenser fan is working properly.
C. Water is turned on and the solenoid is working correctly.
D. The unit temperature is cold enough to make ice.
E. The unit is not bound by Ice, restricting air flow, across the evaporator coils. ( If the unit is ICE Bound, you may have a problem with the Defrost timer.)
I hope this information has helped you.
Please feel free to leave a comment and I will respond ASAP.
Thank you. Please rate......

have you tried to replace the fan motor located behind the panel, just remove the 4 screws in each corner and the fan is behind this panel, it should be 2 screws and a few wires to disconnect, replace motor and connect wires this should cool the freezer properly

hello, how are you, if there is water in your ice bucket, it seems as though when your icemaker sends a signal to water valve to give water, your water valve is sending too much water into icemaker, the solution would be to replace water valve which is behind the refrigerator at the bottom. it should be blue in color which clear plastic tubing connected to it. This happens when the water valve solenoid doesnt close completely.

Here's one place you might can find the part. Post your model number in the proper place and select the dispenser parts. You'll have to go through the ordering process to see where they ship. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

This would indicate moisture is getting into the freezer and not getting out.
Run a manual test of the defrost cycle.

Take all your things out of the freezer and pull the racks out. there should be a way to remove the back panel inside. Behind the panel is a bunch of coils. If they are covered in ice you have a problem. At the bottom is usually a single element or double element heater. Replace that and you should be good to go. They are about 30-40 dollars at your appliance store. They will need your model number to get the right one. Let me know if that works.

Take everything out of the freezer and remove the back panel in the rear of the freezer compartment, just a few screws, and see if the evaporator coil is iced up, if it is you have a bad defroster timer, if it is not then you have a bad compressor.

Probably the defrost timer is bad or the defrost sensor ,but to be sure I need to know the model number of your freezer .

check tem.p inside cabinet and let us know what you find

There are several type of attachments, so pick the one best suited to you....
1. (most likely) With the door open, pull on the plastic panel. If it is held on by clips, it will pull straight off. Look carefully at the clips on the panel. Usually, they bend out of position after being forced back on. Adjust the clips, and gently press back into place. If they are damaged, the clips can be reattached with a 2 part epoxy. I prefer JB weld epoxy.
2. Locate the screws that holds the plastic piece on, and loosen them. Adjust the piece. Tighten the screws.
Best regards, --W/D-- please feel free to rate this solution! thanx!

first of all, switch off your freezer and let all the ice to melt. now snap the capilary with a great force....... don't worry nothing will be damaged beacuse it is the only way to pull the capilary out.............have a nice day :-)

There are 3 parts to the defrost system,Which did he replace? You should ask and don't name the parts for him,Let him tell you what he replaced.Here are the 3 parts to listen for.

Improper installation,a faulty part,or a short could cause it to fail in that short time.

1. Defrost timer
2. Defrost element
3. Defrost thermostat.

Any other question, feel free to ask


Please rate this a fixya

The defrost control is integrated into the main circuit board on the rear of the fridge.
You have to change the complete board.

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Wow, amazing that it is still running. Too bad they don't make them like they used to. Anyway you can get a new gasket though you will have to make it yourself. The following website sells universal gaskets that you will have to cut out. I have posted a link to one size, but since I am not so familiar with the dimensions, you may just have to contact the company about the size you need. You will find a "Request Dimensions" spot on the page so you can get what you need. So please click on the following website link and let me know how this turns out.

http://store.appliancezone.com/servlet/-strse-45327/SU2002-refrigerator-refrigerators-door/Detail



Benjamin

The compressor as well as the evaporator coils will get hot when the freezer is getting cold. Simple principle: Refrigerant gets cold and there must be an equal reaction, something getting hot. Just like the heat transfer in your car with the engine heating the radiator which dissapates the heat. hope this helps you, Rick

Take a hair dryer and heat the auger drive gear. These will sometimes get moisture on them and freeze up.
Turn the refrigerator off first. Then remove the ice bin. The "U" shaped drive will be in the back.
After you have heated it thoroughly, try to move the gear manually. Resume power and try it again.

Disconnect the water line from the water control valve to the ice maker to see if it is letting water thru all the time. It should only let water pass when the ice maker is empty.