20 Most Recent Samsung Syncmaster 2033SW Monitor - Page 2 Questions & Answers

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Looks like the brightness button is somewhat stucked on the inside. Try to blow the buttons using a compressed air. Turn of the monitor and unplug the power for 2 mins. Test the issue again after doing the troubleshooting.
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The computer is most likely going into a sleep mode after 30 minutes, normally you can wake it up by simply moving the mouse, or pressing a key on the keyboard. If the sleep mode is malfunctioning, which is sometimes the case, you can disable it by clicking start, then control panel, then power options, and on the left hand side you should see 'choose when to turn off the display'. It varies slightly for different versions of windows, but what you're looking for will be in the control panel under something mentioning power. The instructions I've given are for windows 7
hope this was helpful.

Check all connections (power and data cords on both ends). Otherwise, these don't last forever and may be near the end of it's useful life.

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The menu popping up sounds like faulty switches, easily fixed. That may also be the cause of the switching off as well, or it could be a symptom of bad capacitors also easily fixed. So I've posted my solutions for both here.

Switch solution

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You have 2-3 options.

1. If it's under warranty then send it back to be fixed, although you'll probably have to pay for it to be sent back etc. But anything else will void the warranty.

2. Pay a tv repairman or similar to fix it for you.

3. You could remove/replace it yourself if you're handy with electronics, or know someone who is. The part itself is called a tactile switch and should cost around £1 if you live in the UK. Make sure you get the correct one as they come in different heights and orientations.

Should look something like this:


Tools
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1. Soldering iron - 40w+
2. Solder - not acid core
3. Phillips and flathead screwdrivers

Instructions
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1. Unplug monitor and open case, you may need to carefully lever the case off with the flathead screwdriver.

2. Find the little board with the buttons on, and identify the faulty button(s). This is done through watching what is happening with the menu or a trial and error process.

3. Very carefully heat up the contacts on one side with the soldering iron, you'll probably have to do the two contacts at the same time, and rock the switch the other way, then do the other side, keep doing this until the switch comes out.

4. Either test without switch first or just replace with new switch. Make sure it's securely seated, correctly, and soldered in. Make sure the solder is neat, tidy and doesn't contact anything else.

5. Replace casing and test. If it doesn't work then you'll have been a bit messy with the solder, tidy it up and try it again.

Bad Caps solution

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1. If it's under warranty then you could send it back to be fixed, problem is they will likely use the same rubbish brand of capacitors again, but anything else will void the warranty.

2. Pay a tv repairman or similar to fix it for you. They may still use substandard capacitors, so specify what brand you want them to use, this will probably mean waiting longer and possibly paying a little more. This way you know the job should be done right.

3. You could replace them yourself if you're comfortable with a soldering iron, or know someone who is. The capacitors themselves are quite cheap and easy to replace.

Go for the best ones you can get for the job and try to buy from reputable companies, the links below will help you chose but you can't go wrong with Rubycons. Every capacitor manufacturer has several ranges, each having different properties which make some more suitable than others

Always match the values on the original capacitors. You can actually use slightly different values for the capacitance and voltage (uf and v) but never use ones below what the originals are rated at.

The links below will explain this further.

They should look something like this:

As you should be able to see, the one on the left is bulging. The blue stripe with the arrow tells you that the lead on that side is the negative, the positive lead should also be longer than the negative one(only on a new cap, old ones will have been trimmed).

Tools needed
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1. Soldering iron. - preferably with a stand with a sponge in.
2. Solder - there's different types so make sure it's suitable for electronics
3. Phillips screwdriver
4. Flat head screwdriver
5. Wirecutters
6. De-soldering wick, or pump. - definitely recommended but not really essential.

If you haven't already got the tools then it's a good investment, as bad caps cause a lot of faults in all kinds of electronics.

Instructions
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1. Unplug monitor and open case.

2. Identify power board, it should have a lot of electrolytic caps on there and obviously should be connected to where the power lead is attached.

3. Identify the bad caps, they should be bulging and/or leaking, although not always. Note down the three values for each cap (eg 220uf, 16v, 105c) and their approximate dimensions, and get new ones, preferably Rubicon or Panasonic, the link below will help you chose some good ones. If in doubt you could remove them and take them to the shop, but you'll have to remember where each one goes and which way round it was (take pics).

4. Very carefully heat up the contact on one side with the soldering iron, and rock the cap the other way, then do the other side, keep doing this until the cap comes out, if you have a de-soldering wick/pump use it to remove the solder and it should just pop out easily.

4. Replace with new cap, making sure that you observe the polarity and make sure it's securely seated and soldered in. Make sure the solder is neat, tidy and doesn't contact anything else. If there's any solder left in the holes then you'll have to heat it up or remove it before you can get the new cap's leads through. Once done properly trim the leads off so they won't cause any problems.

5. Replace casing and test. If it doesn't work then you'll have been a bit messy with the solder, tidy it up and try it again.

Here's a few links to help you:

Bad caps faq - should have pretty much everything you need to know.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=425

Hints on soldering.

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/solder.htm

http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200810/20081024105827812/BN59-00803A-Eng.pdf

- You can test the monitor by using another CPU, if still the same then the problem is monitor, but if it's working well then the problem is your CPU, to make it sure then you can try another monitor on your CPU. - check if the hardware connection is well attach, you can pull & re- plug the hardware just to make sure. - the monitor is need a DVI connection (white or gray) to run properly, if you use AGP connection ( blue ) on your VGA card that might the problem, so you can also try upgrade your VGA card. - other ways is to install the latest driver for your VGA card.

The fact that you could see icons with the flashlight would mean that the digital part of your monitor is still working. The part that has failed is the backlight circuit. It could mean a bulb or components on the backlight power supply board has failed. Often the capacitors fail and the caps blow. Other parts that go bad are the transistors. To repair you would unsolder the bad parts and replace them.

The monitor case is held together with plastic fingers that lock the bezel to the back case. Removed any screws from the back of the case. Then to open the back of the monitor, you will need a thin tool like a putty knife. You start at one corner and insert the knife into the seam between the bezel and the back. You slide the knife down the seam to seperate the two halves. This video should help you to understand how to do this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Q6_TgNJvQw.

After you have opened the monitor, examine the power supply board and look for any parts that look blown or burned. An company that sells replacement capacitors for your monitor is http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ The kits they sell are reasonably priced under $20 including shipping. Hope this helps you.

Power capacitor problem, common on a lot of these type of monitor. Repairable but needs someone who knows what they are doing given the voltages of the capacitors

monitor playback defective need replacement

If you have to ask "how", I suggest that you STOP, and take the monitor to a qualified video/TV technician for proper and safe trouble-shooting.

Or, if the WARRANTY on the monitor still is valid, exercise the warranty to get it fixed, at no cost to you.

To adjust the brightness follow this iamge:

Try the monitor on another computer that you know works, If it works on another computer then that means you have no video output on the original computer and you'll need to reseat the memory on that computer.

If you get the same response on another computer, then that means the monitor is bad and you'll need to replace it.

HI,
Tere could be couple of reasond due to which this issue comes up:
First and the foremost issue looks like a driver issue. You might try reverting the driver back to the previous state and see if you can get your picture back up. If you dont remember the settings try running the CD again that came with the monitor and upload the drivers again.Also, you might want to check to make sure you're displaying in resolutions that the monitor can support.
I would also like to inform you that the monitor should have come with two cables. One is for analog and the other is for digital and is rectangle. Before turning on the computer connect only the Digital cable to your monitor and the video card on the computer. Most of the monitors sence automatically the Digital signals and start operating when you start up the computer. Make sure the monitor is on when the computer starts. Your manual should have instructions that will help.
Do not conect both the cables together as only one is needed.

You also might want to tryTry using theauto-adjust feature on monitor. If that does not work, try booting in SAFE mode. It should boot completely but at low resolution. Try increasing resolution then reboot to normal mode. Also try updating your graphics driver.

You have to us Fn key and either F4, 5, 6, or 7, depends on your laptop to select either internal, extenal, or both displays.

http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums

I would take it back right away, when electronics break down in lees than 6 months it is not a good sign. Get the replacement or have it fixed under warranty.
http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

try to revert back to your old nvidia driver, if it works, the latest driver does not support your syncmaster, contact nvidia or samsung..

check your connections vga plug '

It will be more likely to have power supply problem, open it up and look for bad caps with bulging tops first and report back what you see so we can guide you further, see failed SAMSUNG monitors due to bad caps: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums