Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel -don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Question edited for clarity.
The bake element failed? Test for continuity.
If it has a fan, test that too.
If it is electronic, check the thermistor temperature sensor.
For suspected control panels or mainboards, I always suggest dealer service so you get the correct diagnosis and warranty on the parts and the job. They are also expensive.
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Most modern appliances like cookers and washing machines have the control panels and displays are fitted from behind the front panel, inside the machine. You will be better off getting a professional repairer to do it for you. *Remember* this is a Gas appliance that you're working on so BE CAREFUL. You might have to remove several other panels to get to the touch pad so if your going to do it yourself turn OFF the main gas supply first then make notes and take photos as you go.
No reset found in the manual. You can try this and hope it works..
Turn off the circut Breaker to the stove for 5 minutes to see if it resets. Checking around the net I've only found
"Item Discontinued"
The part is no longer sold by the manufacturer.
The manufacturer does not stock any substitute parts to replace this one and therefore, unfortunately, we cannot obtain or recommend a substitution for this part.
We cannot obtain the part through any other means.
If your GE stove is beeping and displaying the message "bad line," it typically indicates an issue with the electrical power supply. Here are a few troubleshooting steps you can try to resolve the problem:
Check the Power Supply: Ensure that the stove is properly plugged into a functioning power outlet. Verify that there is no issue with the circuit breaker or fuse that supplies power to the stove. You may need to reset the circuit breaker or replace a blown fuse if necessary.
Inspect the Power Cord: Examine the power cord for any signs of damage, such as cuts, fraying, or exposed wires. If you notice any issues, it's advisable to replace the power cord with a new one to ensure safe and reliable operation.
Test the Outlet: If possible, try plugging the stove into a different power outlet to see if the "bad line" message persists. This step helps determine if the issue lies with the stove or the electrical supply in your home.
Contact a Professional: If the problem persists or if you are unsure about performing further troubleshooting steps, it's recommended to contact a qualified appliance repair technician. They can diagnose the specific issue with your GE stove and provide the necessary repairs or replacements.
This issue could be caused by the oven regulator valve not being set correctly for the altitude and fuel source. I'd suggest double-checking that the regulator is properly adjusted to the altitude and fuel source. Additionally, you may want to check the oven igniter and burner for proper operation and make sure the correct model and size of burner is installed. If you have any further questions or need help, please feel free to reach out.
It might be from the burners being dirty or from the electrode not being properly sealed.Or the burner head and the caps are not correctly have been matched up.