20 Most Recent GE Profile 21.7 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer Refrigerator TCX22PACWW Questions & Answers

Hi, It sounds as though the condenser coil may have a sheet of lint on the front of it causing the compressor and system to have higher then normal head and suction pressures. If you can pull it out to get behind it, there should be a fiber panel on the bottom. Remove it. You will see a small fan motor, a coil, and the compressor. It sounds that if the compressor runs all the time and its not as cold as before, this coil needs to be cleaned. If the fan motor is not on but the compressor is, the condenser fan motor is faulty. If it is on, try and clean the front of this coil very good. Shine a light through it also. If you pull a sheet of lint from the front of it, this was your problem. Do this, and keep me posted on the unit in case this is not the problem. Thank you,

GE Profile 21.7... | Answered on Feb 16, 2010

Did you ever figure out this? I have the same issue!!!

GE Profile 21.7... | Answered on Sep 22, 2009

Do you have your condenser coils at the back ? Yes it is normal - How much air clearence do you have at the back ? If your unit is fairly close to the wall there is not much room for the heat to dissipate properly - those condensers do get hot and radiate heat - it is important for your fridge to get rid of heat and critical to its cooling properly. Make sure the condensers are cleana nd not clogged with dust - if your ambiant room temperature is hot your refrigerator will work harder and you will feel it getting warmer at the back - check to see if your compressor runtime is excessive or not and make sure your cooling temps are in the normal range - Freezer no warmer than 10F (optimal at 0F and colder) and refrigerator no warmer than 40F, optimal at 34F.

GE Profile 21.7... | Answered on Sep 04, 2009

try checking the fan in the freezer at the top which pushes the coldness over to the freezer

GE Profile 21.7... | Answered on Jul 09, 2009

My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermister and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
*One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall.  On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. A ball of ice on the coils and the rest of the cooling coils are bare or only a few coils frosted a little and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. Example picture oneexample picture twoexample picture three. System problems may be a leak in the refrigeration tubing, an inefficient not 100% pumping compressor. 

GE Profile 21.7... | Answered on Apr 03, 2009

I had the same problem. The cause is the digital display is not communicating with the motherboard. What had happened in my case is the plug connection between the door's digital display and the motherboard had become unplugged. The wire running from the motherboard runs below the fridge, and connects via plug located along the bottom of the fridge below the freezer door, connecting to the wire running from the display to the bottom of the freezer door. I just reconnected it and that reset the display. Glad for it too, I thought I needed a new $130 motherboard! Hope this helped!

GE Refrigerators | Answered on Oct 12, 2020

I need someone to feel the top of the compressor. Is it cool, hot or too hot to keep your hand there? Usually on GE models like yours the=> WR55X11072 Main Control Board is the problem along with the start relay, overload and run capacitor. GE Refrigerator Model GSH25JSDD SS Parts
I'm here should you have question, Thanks, Sea Breeze

GE Refrigerators | Answered on Oct 06, 2020

The freezer controls the fresh side temp by letting the cold air through the divider. Make sure that the passage is not blocked or iced over. Also check the cooling coils to make sure they are clean.

GE Refrigerators | Answered on Sep 28, 2020

Hold Energy Button & Light Button for 10 seconds!! No repairs needed. Solution is not in manual.

GE Refrigerators | Answered on Sep 20, 2020

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