20 Most Recent GE PDS22SBRLSS Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Yes I do need a new control board. One of the four relay's will not hold an open circuit. Continues to click on and off not allowing the compressor to kick in. Therefore neither the refrigerator or freezer will cool. I considered replacing the relay only but being in operation since 2004 I figured replacing the whole board would be a good percautionary measure.

any hardware store

CALL A LOCAL REPAIR SERVICE YOU NEED AN AIR DAMPER CONTROL REPLACED

the freezer blows cold air over to the fridge side so the problem is in the freezer.send the model number,also open the freezer door,do you hear the fan blowing,if not the fan could be bad or have ice around it.also touch the back wall in the freezer,is there any like snow or ice on it?if so you have a defrost problem and have to take off the inside back wall of the freezer,melt out all the ice and with a meter and the fridge shut down or unplugged check the heater and the defrost thermostat to see what is bad,also,ge has had alot of problems with the computer boards.one more thing,if it's a bottom mount freezer on the bottom the door could have been left open,look at the packages and shelves,if there's frozen water droplets on them the door was left open and the air ducts frooze up and the fan can't blow clod air to the fridge side,you need to melt it out with a hair dryer or unplug the machine for a day or two and let it defrost on it's own.send the model number and tell me what you found from what i told you and if you need more help i'm here.let me know what you find

see pics

sounds like compressor

The blinking 'op er' may be an indication that your free refrigerator has failed and can't be repaired.

defrost timer probably is at fault or the heater itself

The water is caused by a blocked drain when the freezer units defrosts. It does this once every 24 hours. If you pull the fridge out, on the back just below the freezer that is a small black u-bend. That is blocked. Pull it off, soak it in hot water and bleach for 30 minutes. Then flush it through with cold water. Put a little bleach in it and carefully replace it. At the next defrost, the bleach will be diluted and it will clean the pipe down to the compressor pan. The water comes from the evaporator coils, which are behind the panel at the back of the freezer.

Usually it is at the bottom inside on the laft and catches the condensed water vapour deposoting it upon a saucer shaped item that is above the compressor. When it fills with droplets the heat from the compressor evaporates it away.

turn off water and start moving back and forth dont be afraid to use pressure on handle

contact a local repair service it might need freon that only tech can add

Only by fitting it or calling out a GE certified engineer. They can return items if the control panel is not the cause. It IS the most likely cause, but they aren't cheap. You could check all the connections to it.

have you checked in the back of it??

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You might give this business a call with all relevant information. https://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-board-with-core-wr55x10942p-ap6048447.html I think this is the part but of course you would want to confirm. Here is another potential resource. https://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-specs/GSH25JFXWW/parts

your do not need that type of outlet your fridge freezer is drawing more current than it will handle

Clean the drain to the drip tray. They block with a sort of slime mould. Use a compressed air can, or a piece of wire. https://www.google.com/search?q=GE+GSS27RGMF+WW%2C+water+is+building+up+in+the+bottom+of+the+water+and+ice+dispenser ..

best bet will be to call in a local repairman

Unplug it for 5 minutes and try again. But..... Voltage spike damaged the control board is likely. Damages Claim to the Utility company supplying your electricity.