If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”
Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts.
It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If
it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is
still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more
of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified
appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
The compressor
The Thermostat
The overload, relay, or capacitor
The defrost timer
The condenser fan motor
Cooling is poor
For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read
about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A
refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a
problem in one of several areas:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the
evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and
dirt.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the
evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on
the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the
presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or
ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a
problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in
every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting
system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually,
though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the
circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a
small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow
over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite
limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the
problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable
food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the
refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be
sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice
causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to
defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely
melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the
refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of
three components in the self-defrosting system:
The defrost timer
The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
The defrost heater
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If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the
refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a
qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan,
usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If
these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not
cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide
radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them,
disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator
condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum
cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be
able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary
to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the
refrigerator.
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