20 Most Recent GE JTP15 Electric Single Oven Questions & Answers


Try unpluging the oven for about 5 minutes and then plug it back in. It should reset itself.

GE JTP15... | Answered on Sep 01, 2018


Hi, Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go intothe self clean mode(self destruct)....check out this tip...

Self Cleaning Oven Problem


heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaningoption. Thanks for the info!!

GE JTP15... | Answered on Jan 06, 2017


Hello & Welcome to FixYa

Correct, it is recommended to replace the control panel completely. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

GE JTP15... | Answered on Mar 01, 2015


I had this code come up on a double wall oven once and I fixed it myself for $200 less by ordering the part and using Repair Clinic.com for step-by-step instructions. It still cost me $100 + for the part and $65 for a serviceperson to tell me what I already knew (the code was F7) and it seemed confusing at first but I did it! Make sure to turn the electric off first from the fuse box!

GE JTP15... | Answered on Jul 14, 2014


I ordered a new control board and it did not fix my issue, I found that my ribbon cable is touching one of the boxes and getting hot, when I bend it away from the board, my button works, I used electrical tape to keep it from touching. It could be just a bad ribbon cable instead which costs about 25.00 , you have to know the exact number of pins your unit will need

GE JTP15... | Answered on Jun 20, 2014


Based on you description, fail codes, you've got a temperature sensor failure and or a loose connection in your sensor harness.

GE JTP15... | Answered on Apr 24, 2014


It may be possible that the electronic control is bad. On some models there are three relays one for the bake and one for the broil and one for the common. This one goes out and the bake and broil will not work. The control is fairly expensive you may want to have a tech check it out.

GE JTP15... | Answered on Nov 26, 2013


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
$%#$Y

GE JTP15... | Answered on Mar 20, 2013


Hello & Welcome to FixYa

Please review this video if you are doing the replacement yourself:


Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

GE JTP15... | Answered on Nov 26, 2011


Hi

F2 Error indicates a loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel

GE JTP15... | Answered on Sep 16, 2011


Hello,

When checking the sensor it shouls be checked at room temp (even if power off) at it should be between 1060-1100 ohms at room tempature. 16 ohms the new sensor is shorted the F2/F3/F4 all relate a faided sensor and the F5 error code says the clock (electronic oven control) is defective.

Test the sensor again at room temp...if only 16ohms its no good and will throw the F4 code everytime again a good sensor measured at room temp should be between 1060-1100 ohms


GENE

GE JTP15... | Answered on Sep 06, 2011


Hi.

F2 is displayed when the ERC (the control board) detects a sensor impedance corresponding to temperature above 615F-630F. This may happen either because sensor is open as it has blown, because wiring from sensor to ERC is broken, or because ERC is defective. Before replacing the ERC check the wiring from temperature sensor. The test is done using a multimeter set on impedance. Disconnect power first, touch with one of the multimeter probes one of the sensor contacts, find which of the contacts on ERC shows continuity (low impedance- not open or infinity) between sensor contact and contact at board. Test also the thermostats(the temp.sensors) just to know if any of them is bad (including the old one). A good thermostat for this oven will read about 1080 Ohms at room, at 800 degrees it will read about 2600 Ohms (test it only at room temperature). Go for the ERC if wiring and thermostat are OK. Before replacing the ERC test also wiring to element in the same way you did with temperature sensor wiring. Test also the elements, just in case. They must be from 30 to 80 Ohms.

Regards.

Ginko

GE JTP15... | Answered on Aug 09, 2011

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