Our GE Profile JTP18 Single Electric Wall Oven (30") has been flashing "Door Lock" and the locking mechanism keeps engaging and disengaging, ever since we ran a Self Clean. We've had a repair man out who has replaced the entire control panel, the touch panel, and the locking mechanism. He just told me he was giving up and going to have another repair company take a look at it. The Control Panel will only respond to the Self Clean button, the Clear button, or one of the timers (Kitchen or Cook Timer seem to work), and the Oven Light. The door will open if you catch it while the lock is disengaged. Any help would be great. We've been w/o an oven for just over three weeks, and we have three growing kids to feed.
most of the time a simple fix....
http://www.geappliances.com/search/fast/infobase/10004586.htm
you have to trick the door lock mech into cycling through the cleaning process (takes about 20 seconds)
Print
Range - “LOCKED DOOR” flashes in the display
If “LOCKED DOOR” is flashing in the display of your range or oven, and the self-clean cycle has not been selected, follow the steps below to reset your control:
Motorized Switch
Manual Switch
If the above does not correct the situation, a service technician will need to check your cooking product. To obtain in or out of warranty repair on Major Appliances, you may call 1-800-GE-CARES (800-432-2737) or schedule service online.
Posted on Mar 18, 2010
In the last two days we have experienced an F7 code on our GE Profile Oven. At this time none of the options work on the key pad. The only button that will do anything is the Start button that will stop the alarm for the F7 code. Can any offer some advice on what this problem might be and how to resolve it? I have seen some posts on cleaning some connections in the touchpad control panel, but I do not know how to get the control panel off. This advice is appreciated as well. Your help is appreciated, Mr T
The F7 problem is usually caused by a short circuit between segments of the ribbon cable connecting the touchpanel to the ERC. Open the touch panel. Insert a slip of paper (yes paper) between the two segments of ribbon cable where it exits the slot in the touchpanel. Try to work the paper down as far as possible. A piece of file card may work better. See the attached photo. If you have a metal touch panel, also add slips of paper between the ribbon cable and the edges of the slot. I have shared my solution with over 795 folks with the F7 problem. Most report success. Cleaning the contacts is a myth. It is only a short time solution as when you move the cable you are temporarily disrupting the short circuit, but it will grow back. The short is caused by what is know a dendrite. It is a growth from the silver traces on the membrane switch conductors. If you want more technical information, contact me at [email protected]. The solution should work for all ovens made by GE including Kenmore as far back as 1998. Don't be concerned about putting paper in the top of the oven. GE places a set of instructions in the top of the oven. Many folks have replaced touchpanels only to have the problem return.
Posted on May 29, 2007
We have a GE Profile TrueTemp oven capable of convection and regular baking. (JTP18B...).
After we bake and all heat is off, a fan keeps running and running and running...even after the door is open.
Otherwise, the oven works.
Is this normal?
Is there a chance an open/close-indicator switch for the door is not working properly?
3 to 4 hours is a long time. Get to the fans (behind the control panel) and check the screens for dust. Chances are the screens are clogged with dust and need to be cleaned so the fans can move air for cooling better. I had this problem on my GE JTP14, and after cleaning just one fan it can keep up with cooling the electronic area while the oven is running. It runs much less often.
Safety first! cut the breaker before removing anything with a nice conductive screwdriver! Hope this helps!
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
Hi, I have a kitchen aid glass top stove, approx 2-3 years old. I left a tea kettle on it, (too long) it melted a nickle size divit out of the glass and 2 cracks run out from the divit in opposing directions...
question 1: can i still safely use the other burners? the crack does not go over or near the other burners.
question 2, how can i replace this without a taking out a second mortgage on the house? ps ive been told it would be cheaper to buy another stove altogether
You can buy replacement tops for your range. Check with your manufacturer for local parts distributors or service locations and they should be able to find you one. There is also online part stores that sell them like http://www.partadvantage.com/store anywhere from 150-400$
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
GE Built-in oven model JTP15
Went to self-clean oven. After hitting the proper buttons to start, the door locked, but nothing happened in the way of self cleaning. Turned off the oven breaker for an extended time (days), but when I reset the breaker, still flashing "Door Locked."
I took off the panel and managed to force the latch to unlocked, but not entirely opened. The locked signal still is flashing and I can't seem to get any further than that.
Once before this happened, and the repairman hit some combination of control keys and managed to reset the oven.
• What keys did he press?
• Should the latch motor turned when I tried to rotate it (it didn't)?
• Could the latch motor need replacement?
• Any ideas what to do next?
The problem may very well be in one of the micro switches on the self cleaning motor bracket. These switches control the electrical flow to the heating elements. In the owners manual there is/should be a chart that lists the unlock and safety combinations. This would be your best source of information.
Posted on Jan 26, 2008
WANT TO CHANGE COLOR OF GE PROFILE WALL OVEN..... CAN THIS BE DONE?
I'm in the same situation. I've done a little research and found that the oven door can be changed out rather easily. If you have your Model # and Serial #, located on the inside bottom left corner, you can call GE (1-877-959-8688) and ask if there is a replacement door in the color you would like available for your model. I haven't contacted GE yet, but plan to do so tomorrow to find out if there is a stainless replacement door for my model (and how much it will cost). Hope this helps...good luck!
Posted on Dec 05, 2010
hey doc see if you can help with this thanks 17 http://www.fixya.com/support/t371622-locref
just solved the Loc ref problem by going to Ge customer net. By pushing the 6 and 8 numbers at the same time on the contriol board, will reset the machine. worked for me, hope it does the same for you.
Posted on Oct 15, 2008
After a 4 hour cleaning the DOOR LOCKED keeps flashing and the locking motor keeps running - constantly cycling locking and unlocking the door - but the DOORLOCKED Flashing does not change.
check the interlock switch, can be some object has stuck to it...
Posted on Sep 06, 2008
cooling fan stopped working and is making a rattling noise
I had the same problem. The screen protecting the fan bends into the fan from the heat. Take off the top front control panel (3 screws), reach in to the back where the fan is and push the screen back away from the fan. As always, turn the power off first to avoid shock. This should solve your noise problem.
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
I have gotten the F7 Error Code. I can use the oven for a short amount of time and then the error code comes up. I can turn off the power to the unit and it resets only to happen again. Please, any suggestions
I'm not sure what your problem is, but I have the same one. My stainless steel glass top model ?? is beeping all the time with error f7 on all the 4 tem control readouts. I'm guessing this is your problem as well. By turning the temp knobs it will stop, but sometimes restarts later for no reason. Other sites mention a ribbon cable on the touch controls (if yours has it, mine does ) that must be cleaned with rubbing alcohol. You turn off the power, and after unlocking the cable you clean the contacts with an easer and a q-tip w/rubbing alcohol. I don't know if this works but I might try it as the beeping is driving me crazy! The service techs will try and sell you about $450 in parts to fix the problem. This problem apparently has plagued these units for almost 10 years. Seems heat makes the cable get shorts at the contacts.
I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS YET so beware, but I had a short in my microwave and the site helped me fix a $500 control board for about 15 cents ( jumped a short on the board with a small wire!) Hope you get your problem fixed.
Posted on Mar 13, 2008
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