Top 20 GE JTP20 Electric Single Oven Questions & Answers

Check the door switch. If it is stuck in the closed position the light will remain on. Part number WB24T10147

Likely you need a thermal cutoff replaced near where your heating elements are. It senses the fault and shuts down. You can but an after market thermal cutoff from most any electronic parts supply, and maybe even from an appliance parts supply.

First, no First, no First unplug the range after you gently scoot away from wall. Then check youy main circut breaker for house to see if you tripped fuse. Then with stove still unplugged remove back access panel, look to area where light goes into oven. Check again and make sure oven is unplugged, then repair the wire by splicing wire with new wire line splice purchased at your nearest local auto parts store, sales person can show how to install. THEN plug in to see if you can see the light!
Joe Don

most oven brands say it cant be replace in the field , never had to replace it give me more info and i will look for one for you , make, model serial number , thanks

I have seen this before , turn off the ower or unplug oven, then remove the control panel you should see the ribin cables they need to be unpluged and cleaned , you will need a pencel with an eraser , use the eraser to clean the end of the ribbin cable where you see the connection was , plug the cable back in and then the main power also plug it in, then give it a try

Hi

Helen, the keypad is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

It would be very unlikely that both elements went out at the same time. Is it possible that one element went out a long time again and went unnoticed? I know you said the are both not working but try this, Turn your oven on BROIL and the temperature up all the way and see if the top element begins heating.
Then turn it on COOK and see if the bottom element comes on.
If both elements fail to work then your problem may be in the selector or thermostat control. You may also have a wire that has come loose (or burned loose).
If you are comfortable working with electricity, you can turn the circuit breaker off and remove the controls for testing. Also, verify that all the wires are properly attached.
If you are not comfortable, have a service technician check it out immediately. There may possibly be a burnt wire behind the panel or oven.
If one of the elements worked and one did not then the problem is "most likely" a bad element. Turn off the circuit breaker to your oven and make sure all the knobs are off on the oven and you can remove the element and take it to a parts store for replacement. If you have a volt ohm meter you can check the element for resistivity, it should read infinity if it is good but a low reading if bad.
It is easy to remove. Take out the wire shelves and unscrew the screws where the element goes into the back of the cooking cabinet. There will be some wires attached which should pull off, check for loose or burnt wires at the element connections and control connections. you may have to slide the oven out and look for broken or burnt wires in the back of the oven.
Elements are reletivly cheap and most can be found at the big hardware stores. With no error codes, I would replace one of the elements and see if it starts working.

that is not a problem. I copied the instructions straight from the manual which you can also review by clicking here.
Using the clock and timer.
To Set the Clock The clock must be set to the correct time of day for the automatic oven timing functions to work properly. The time of day cannot be changed during a timed baking or self-cleaning cycle. Press the CLOCK pad. Press the HOUR and MIN + or – pads to set the time of day. Press the START pad. Make sure the clock is set to the correct time of day. To Set the Timer Press the KITCHEN TIMER ON/OFF pad. Press the HOUR and MIN + or – pads until the amount of time you want shows in the display. The maximum time you can enter in minutes is 59. Cooking times more than 59 minutes should be changed to hours and minutes. For example, enter 90 minutes as 1 hour, 30 minutes. If you make a mistake, press KITCHEN TIMER ON/OFF and begin again. Press the START pad. After pressing the START pad, SET disappears; this tells you the time is counting down, although the display does not change until one minute has passed. Seconds will not be shown in the display until the last minute is counting down. When the timer reaches :00, the control will beep 3 times followed by one beep every 6 seconds until the KITCHEN TIMER ON/OFF pad is pressed. The 6-second tone can be canceled by following the steps in the Special features of your oven control section under Tones at the End of a Timed Cycle. The timer is a minute timer only. The timer does not control oven operations. The maximum setting on the timer is 9 hours and 59 minutes. To Reset the Timer If the display is still showing the time remaining, you may change it by pressing the KITCHEN TIMER ON/OFF pad, then press the HOUR and MIN + or – pads until the time you want appears in the display. If the remaining time is not in the display (clock, delay start or cooking time are in the display), recall the remaining time by pressing the KITCHEN TIMER ON/OFF pad and then pressing the HOUR and MIN + or – pads to enter the new time you want. To Cancel the Timer Press KITCHEN TIMER ON/OFF pad twice.

If you need further assistance follow up with a comment and please let me know and i will be glad to assist you further. Thanks, Midwest-tek

Hello,F1 means Stuck touch pad.
Usually means that either the touch pad or the oven control (also called clock or ERC) is defective and needs to be replaced. If this fault code cannot be canceled,replace the oven control(also called clock or ERC),touch pad,or both.

Thanks

Hello there:
on most ge models this code it can be either a (f 0) or the (f 1 ) is telling you that the the thermistor controle circuit is going bad or has failed all together. or there is a short in the erc circuit meaning the electronic controle board. ok
So i would recommend have a repairman check out the thermistor first since this is the most common thing to fail then if this passes have them test the controle board or the ecr circuit
and if the oven is still under warranty you might be able to use the warranty to get it fixed ok
Hope this is very helpful for you
Best regards MIchael

Hi,
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

Remove the bake element and use a meter set for continuity to check the element. No reading is a bad element.

F7 Stuck Button
1. Function pad button stuck or
2. Bad clock. Try to free stuck button or
3. Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC).

I have a GE JT950 double oven that just did the same thing: F7 and beeps like crazy. I found solution on another post: an engineer figured out how to solve the issue without calling GE or buying parts. I just did it tonight and it worked fine. Here is a copy of the post:

Send an e-mail to Charlie at [email protected] for a fix-it that you can try. He explains a possible solution fully with his 'The Dreaded "F7" Error' solution. I actually found his information on another website when I did a web search for "GE Profile Oven F7 Issue". I sent an e-mail to him and he replied with free fix-it information. I am not a repair person myself, but, his instructions are very clear and simple to follow. I did the fix-it at no cost in approximately 10 minutes and it has solved my problem

Try turning the breaker to that unit off and keep it off for 20 minutes or overnight, if possible, then flip the breaker back on. If it still shows the PF code, call us and we can get the correct part to you. Hope this helps.

HI, this is a lock switch mechanism failure.


Check wiring to door lock switch (the wire harness may be connected wrong). Check for stuck lock switch.

If the wiring is connected properly, simply replace the door lock switch.

***(It is possible that is is stuck. trying correcting this before purchasing a new switch)---(Highly uncommon)

Not sure if this link will work, but give this a try
http://claimworks.servicepower.com/mfgltr/I404/RC/Wall%20Oven%20Repair%2011-4.pdf

There is a recall on the oven door for a few models
Safety Recall GE Wall Oven Models Included in the Recall
Brand Model Numbers Must Begin With Serial Numbers Must Begin With GE® and GE Profile™ JCT915, JT912, JT915, JT952, JT955, JT965, JT980*, JTP20, JTP25, JTP28, JTP48, JTP50, JTP86 TD, VD, ZD, AF, DF, FF, GF, HF, LF, MF, RF, SF, TF, VF, ZF GE Monogram® ZET3058, ZET938, ZET958 TD, VD, ZD, AF, DF, FF, GF, HF, LF, MF, RF, SF, TF, VF, ZF Kenmore
(All model numbers start with 911) 4771, 4775, 4781, 4904, 4905, 4923*

* Lower Oven Only 2T, 2V, 2Z, 3A, 3D, 3F, 3G, 3H, 3L, 3M, 3R, 3S, 3T, 3V, 3Z
and that link shows the door and hinge. Recall info at
http://www.geappliances.com/products/recall/wall_oven_08/

This is a shorted touch pad. replace the touch pad or, if the touch pad is incorporated within the control board, replace the entire oven control board.