20 Most Recent GE 168954 Deep Fryer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

www.powercord-manufacturers.com/kp-GE-Electric-Griddle-Model-106733-Power-Cord-10431.html

here is an active link that may help.

If it is a DP16 cord, good luck with finding a new one, but if you still have the old one, the following might help,

Solution for fixing DP16 Cordset for GE deep fryers: To begin with, you willl need to clean the electrical contacts on both the fryer and the cordset. They will be burnt from electricity arcing between the two when the cord is plugged into an outlet before connecting to the deep fryer. I used a dremel tool attachement grinder used for sharpening chain saw chains. It is cylindrical and fits in the holes in the cordset perfectly. You could use sandpaper rolled into a small cylinder, or whatever is available that will do the job. To open the flaps that cover the holes, insert a toothpick in the center hole of the cordset while you work. Make sure that both sets of contacts are completely clean before proceeding with the next step. Next, using needle nose plyers, make two tight coils of fine or extra fine (.032") resin core solder the same size as the holes in the cordeset. Press into place in each of the holes in the cordset against the electrical contacts. Spread the coils a little so they cannot fall out when the cordset is not attached to the fryer because the flaps will likely not close properly or at all. You can work the coils down so the flaps will close if you use the .032 solder, but they will still be a little loose, so they might jam the flaps open or partially open. This definitly isn't a UL approved method, but it will fix the problem completely. Happy frying!

You need a good external thermometer to check your oil temp.
Everything fries at 350-375 degrees.
Any hotter and the oil burns.

The release mechanism is going to be exactly the cause of the problem. A steel plate, attached to the inside plastic handle, engages and is held by an electromagnet as the handle's pushed down. When there are any crumbs obstructing the plate from good contact, the transformer's current varies, trying to bring the contact to the electromagnet's plate. This causes the transformer to hum, or buzz. The fix is to clean it out, and sometimes you can hold it upside down and shake it out. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble it and clean it out.
After that, it should work like new.
One other thing to check, is that the transformer is tightly secured to the circuit board. If it works loose, it will vibrate and cause noise.
Last suspect component would be a failing capacitor or component in the circuit board breaking partly down, which takes an oscilloscope to pinpoint, in which case it's cheaper just to buy a new toaster.
Good luck, thanks for using FixYa, and hope this helps!

call GE customer svc for replacement parts (877) 207-0923

call GE customer sva for replacement parts (877) 207-0923

call GE customer sva for replacement parts (877) 207-0923

there is a safety switch that prevents the thing from turning on unless the control head/heater is mounted to the base. the safety switch on mine melted (confirmed this when I disassembled the control head)

there is a safety switch that prevents the appliance from turning on unless it is fully assembled. the safety switch on mine melted.

try Pearsol Appliance 214-939-0930

GE does not provide replacements parts for skillets

Hi there,

Not safe to cook with the glass crack. Heater may not distrbute temperature evenly and this will cause a problem since at one point, temperature is being sensed from the glass and if the temperature is not even in the surface, that would cause a disaster.

Sadly, there is no way to repair cracked top glass so you will need to replace it.

Regards,
Jeep Brainy