20 Most Recent GE JES1039 Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

Hi

The issue is with the door switch assembly that should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

F3 occurs if the controller detects a key shorted for more than 60 seconds. Luckily, on this model, the "keypanel" as it's called is available as a separate part. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety & disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering the model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383 The "keypanel" is shown as reference number 44 on that exploded view.

dont worry yourself, it isnt a major expence, either the capacitor and diode need replacement or the magnatron need replacement.( Please dont do it yourself, as serious injury will occur due to the high voltages that sit in the system).

In all likelihood the mangnetron has failed, or perhaps even the Power Supply. or a fault that is shutting the system down for safety reasons You need to have it serviced by a reputable service centre/man. Ensure you get a firm "Quote" before proceeding, and remember these days the cost of repair can equal or exceed the price of a new one.

Yes there is!. At http://www.repairclinic.com it is item number 277 and is a spray paint for the microwave cavitys. You can call them at the 800 number on that page or order right there..

Test the high voltage capacitor, the rectifier diode.or the magnetron. If all this are fine, test the control board.

If it additionally does not spin and no light, then check also the door switch and fuse.

The diode and capacitors can br tested. The capacitor must be allowed discharge before testing, or you risk to get electrocuted, even if power is off. Capacitors can get discharged by shorting their two contacts.
Replace the magnetron if the checks and all of the high voltage component tests are good, but the unit still does not heat.

All locations, and description of this parts can be located using the diagram here: Counter top.

Parts must be tested to find out what is wrong.

Remember that microwaves are potentially dangerous devices if not repaired properly, the job must be done by a competent person.
A microwave energy leakage test must always be performed when the oven is serviced for any reason.

Regarding parts, contact the seller here to purchase parts. (here in UK).

Probably magnatron is bad. Best test is to substitute a known good one. There are others but you are in the 4000 volt area of the unit.

WHAT POWER SETTING DO YOU HAVE IT SET AT, CHECK IT

The turntable has a small motor underneath it that rotates the glass tray. You could have a motor that is going bad, or the plastic spindle (what the glass plate sits on) could be slipping. You can access the motor through the bottom panel. Be careful to make sure the microwave is unplugged for attempting any repairs inside. There is potentially as much as 14,000 volts in the high voltage network around the magnetron. Let me know if this helps.

Explain a little bit better please. I do not understand what you are saying. Is the oven dead? No power? Or just won't heat the food? What did you do? It says you cooked the oven?

GE JES1142WD02 I would bet. If the circuit breaker and outlet powering the microwave are good, then the most common internal causes of a "dead" microwave are the fuse, a thermostat, or a control board defect. You can usually find local servicers in the Yellow Pages under Appliance Repair. I would pick the shop whose people sound most concerned, professional, courteous, helpful, and knowledgeable. Good luck.

I'm wondering how old this is? There should be a date on the model number tag, or an FCC IC number on the label I could look up if you can supply that. You may have a defective control panel assembly. We routinely repair these nationwide for $32.50, but I'd be interested in how old you think this is. Does it do this when the door is open? I really doubt that it's actually cooking when it comes on, but it is possible. If the door is open, that should prevent it from happening. Only a temporary stop gap, though. Another way to find out if it's really cooking when it comes on is to place a cup of water inside. After it has run by itself a couple of minutes, check to see if the water is warmer. Besides the control panel, it might be the upper door switch or mount. You can do a Google search for my text file "doorsw.txt" which gives you good safety info and tips on how to check and replace defective door switches. Let us know what you find.

The problem with your Display of your GE Microwave/Speedcooker is not the Digitron WB27X10856 display board? The flickering and ultimately failure over of the display is due to the WB27X10861 GE microwave control board which is a rebranded (LG 6871W1A417/6871W1A417A board) which GE then sells as a markup. The princple purpose of this board is to convert (i.e. rectify) AC to DC at various voltage levels needed by the rest of the microwave to run their control circuits in the microwave. A portion of the GE microwave is always on so the AC/DC supplly is always on. Overtime the electrolytic capacitors in a section of the board fail or degrade to a point they the DC suppy starts to produce ripples in the DC power supply which results in circuit board failures. These ripples produce deep spikes of voltage of 120 Hz that the other circuits are sensitive too. I just exmined a failed WB27X10861 board and measued the capacitance of each of the seven electroylic capacitors. Of the 7 capacitors, 2 had failed over time. The others 5 have degraded 10 to 15 percent but still within their design spec. The two that failed, C07 - 1000uF 25 V had a measured value of 207uF and the other C08 - 220uF had a measured value of 13uF. There was no visible bloating on either SAMWHA SG capacitor. Nomally, these capacitors are rated at 2000 hour at 85 degree C. 2000 hr is only 83 days, but since the voltage is less and the temperature is probably 40 to 50 degrees inside the capacitor these capacitors may last 10 years. They harder they work the shorter the lifespan. There are two solutions, either purchase a new replacement control board or replace the failed C07 and C08 capacitors within the failed board with better ones. You can easily buy 10,000 hour , 105 degree C rated capacitors for probably 25 cents more than 2,000 hour capacitor. Most people don't have the resouces to repair a board so buying a new board is their only solution. Don't buy a used board on ebay because a used board is probably on the verge of failure.