20 Most Recent GE JVM2070 Microwave Oven - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Some appliances do not work well when used on a gfci protected circuits. Move the microwave to an outlet that is not reqiured to be gfci protected and it should work fine . If you do not have a dedicated outlet for your microwave , it is a good idea to install one , or have an electrician install one for you.

One would think that you would have the sense to use the extractor that is above your stove and under your microwave, would you use a laptop in a sauna!!! no wonder the thing is shorting out. Contact the person who fitted the microwave. always use the extractor when you boil things on the hob.
I live in England it is illegal to have a microwave above a hob for this exact reason. America will catch up eventually with building regulations!!

Your owner's will have the part numbers for the filter. You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here. I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

There's a bad fuse in it. You need to replace the fuse whether it's blown out or not.

If same problem occurs even after replacing the fuse, then you may need to contact the manufacturer to consult the problem. The circuit board might have a problem that needs to be serviced.

I hope that your microwave oven is still under the warranty.

Have a great day!

Hi. It sounds to me like the control PCB was damaged and is not switching power to the cooling fan or T/T motor.... Does the oven light work?

You have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo) and then you'll see the previously hidden screw(s) you need to remove.

Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) that demonstrates how it's done.

In some cases, you then have to gently rotate the handle to unlock it.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

I called a technician out today. Seems like the problem is the circuit board. It wasn't working properly and the sound is the fan. The fan is supposed to turn on when the microwave is in use and off when it is not. In this case, the fan continued even when the microwave was not in operation. A new circuit board has been ordered and will replace the old one when it arrives. For now, I can still use the microwave, but I have to unplug it everytime I finish heating something up. A little inconvenient, but at least it'll still heat my food up in the meantime.

Yes, but If the cavity metal of the oven is chipped or charred, it will have to be sanded smooth and clean and dried thoroughly.

Then you can apply some high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Builder's Square.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

This is almost always due to a defective or loose magnetron causing electrical interference and disruption in the control circuit board.

Details covering some previous models are in their bulletin here. Even if your model is not on the list, the same type of problem can occur.

If your magnetron was recently replaced, it may have loose mounting nuts or bolts or maybe the wire mesh RF gasket was not installed or got pinched.

NOISY MAGNETRON TEST (c) 2009 William E. Miller [email protected]

One way to test it is to do the following:

1. Unplug the microwave or turn off its breaker.
2. Open the door, then detach the control panel as shown in the video at http://www.microwavedisplay.com and swing it down, but without disconnecting the wires. If you have any trouble getting the grille off once the screws are removed, slide the hood vent grille to the left about 1/4", then then pull it forward. On some models there are L-shaped clips that fit into a slot to hold bottom of the vent.
3. Plug the microwave back in.
4. Make sure neither you nor anyone else reaches in behind the control panel. There will exposed high-voltage connections.
5. Put a few cups worth of water in a microwave-safe container and place it inside the microwave.
6. Shut the door.
7. Run the microwave for about 1 minute or so on full power. (Time Cook > 1 > 0 > 0 > Start, e.g.)
8. If it does not fail, try it several more times.
9. When the water boils, change the water and try again.

NOTE: If your model does not have a door handle, you will need to unplug the oven and reattach the control panel to be able to open the door.

If it still does not fail, I would recommend that you put it all back together and keep using it until it fails more consistently, then repeat this test.

While a microwave should never be left running unattended under any circumstances (as your owner's manual will tell you) it's even more important when one is exhibiting a failure or any odd behavior. So play it safe and stay with it while it's running!

If you or someone you know want to replace the magnetron yourself, you will need to remove the oven from the wall.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.



You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

If it's within the magnetron portion of the warranty (usually 5-9 years) but out of the original full warranty (usually 1 year), then your manufacturer will cover the part cost, but not the cost to visit you or the labor charge to do the work.

Sometimes they will send you the magnetron to do it yourself. Call them at 888-239-6832.

Be persistent. You may have to speak with a supervisor.

If it is not within the magnetron warranty, you can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Hi this will happen when the touch pad circuits become unstable and damaged, due to abundant usage or , old age.

simply replacing the touch pad will fix this issue.

what is the make and model number

Quite often this is due to grease or food particles stuck to the inside of the oven or stuck on or behind the waveguide cover.

In some models it is a larger stirrer cover type made of thicker plastic in the ceiling of the oven.

It can be fragile, and the metal edges of the oven behind it can be sharp, so be careful!

The cover and the metal behind it should be cleaned with a mild, non-ammonia cleaner.

If the cavity metal of the oven is chipped or charred, it will have to be sanded smooth and clean and dried thoroughly.

Then you can apply some high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Builder's Square.

If your waveguide cover is burned, it will need to be replaced. It provides important protection for the magnetron.

Sometimes this problem is due to a defective magnetron or a failing stirrer.

Details of GE's recent magnetron trouble are in their bulletin here. Even if your model is not on the list, the same problem can occur, requiring a kit.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

Since it's within the magnetron portion of the warranty (usually 5-9 years) but out of the original full warranty (usually 1 year), then your manufacturer will cover the part cost, but not the cost to visit you or the labor charge to do the work.

Unless it's covered by this bulletin's campaign, in which case it may still be free to fix it all.

If needed, they may send you a replacement magnetron. GE Customer Service is here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

change your electrical wall plug to a diffferent one, do not use extention wire pls, there is insufficient to drive your microwave, thats why it resets and restarts again
cheers 

It could possibly be the touch pad, but since you mention that it runs longer when the exhaust fan is on, I would say your magnetron is heating up.

Say Guest, your "repairman" could have started it cooking, then disconnected the keypad while it was running. Bet he didn't, did he..? *grin*

The magnetron on most GE's have a 5-year warranty now.

Here is a reply I've posted on this problem dozens of times here on FixYa:


Sadly, we hear of this over and over.

This is usually due to a defective or loose magnetron causing electrical interference and disruption in the control circuit board.

If your magnetron was recently replaced, it may have loose mounting nuts or bolts or maybe the wire mesh RF gasket was not installed or got pinched.

It may also need a new high-voltage diode and stirrer, and the cavity may be affected.

GE had a campaign (but not a recall, mind you!) covering several models.

Details are in their bulletin at http://207.234.249.73/mwd/ge_mw_mag_kit_bulletin.pdf

Even if your model is not on the list, the same problem can occur, requiring a kit. I just think the difference is that GE has stopped paying for the repairs.

The parts kit (that GE used to pay for) is part # WB27X10489 and is shown here: http://207.234.249.73/mwd/wb27x10489_ge_mag_stir_kit.jpg

(Your model may use a different kit - this is shown for illustration purposes only).

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Chances are the flames opened the oven cavity TCO, which acts as a flame sensor.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can also find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

Accessing some components (cavity TCO) for testing and possible replacement will require you to remove the oven from the wall.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Please be sure the oven is unplugged.

There are two Phillips head screws on the very top of the outside of the cabinet above the vent.

When they're removed the vent grille just snaps out.

In some cases, an installer may have installed the oven so that the screws are covered up by the bottom cabinet. I hope that's not the case here...

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

My unit does the same thing - it will often simply power down or power down and display garbage on the control panel within a second or two of starting operation.  I have found in my case this seems related to slight obstruction preventing the exhaust hood from pivoting to the open position at the top of the unit.  Mechanical misalignment of the pivoting fan panel seems to cause a motor overdraw, or something similar, which shuts down the unit.  I've found that I can usually slide the pivoting fan panel a mm or so to the right or left, usually right (oddly), and then the panel will swivel unimpeded and the microwave will work.  As my unit has cabinets above it, I believe that over time there has been sufficient physical contact/impact with the pivoting exhaust panel to slightly deform it, affecting its ability to freely rotate down from the vertical.