Top 20 Honeywell HE260A1010 Whole House Humidifier Humidifier Questions & Answers

He is a link for your humidifier, has directions how to wire it up http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/PackedLit/69-1570.pdf

Yes when you turn the dial on the humidistat 24 volts gets sent to the solenoid valve and it will click open and allow water to flow through it.

make sure filter is in right.

Best thing is to always replace with a new one, the filters are not that expensive and very easy to change.

Hi,

For the humidifier to work you need to have th blower running do that means that you either have to turn the blower on manaually or the heat must be running alot...
I would suggest that you turn the blower or fan switch to the on position for a few days to force the blower to run...this will get the humidity up and then you may have enough runtime for heating for it to keep up then...

heatman101

Keeping the humidity level in your home below 50% will greatly decrease mold growth. You can pour some bleach in the drainage tubing to clean it out and do it every three months to keep it clean


http://www.ehow.com/how_4798220_clean-honeywell-humidifier.html

http://www.forwardthinking.honeywell.com/related_links/humidification/truesteam/sell/50_9718.pdf

Yes you still need a transformer the hum. port on the furnace goes to the 24 volt transformer. one leg of the primary side goes to the transformer and the other leg of the primary goes to the neutral on the board. Then you have your 24 volt terminals one goes directly to the humidifier and the other goes to the humidistat the other wire from the humidifier goes to the humidistat.

Neither, even if the solenoid or humidistat stick, it should always drain properly. Is the unit mounted on the cold air return duct or the supply plenum? If it's mounted on the supply plenum, the water panel might be getting blown forward and spilling the water. High efficient furnaces also can leak water on the floor if its drain is restricted. If hum. is mounted on return duct make sure drain is clear by blowing through it. On Honeywell hum's I've seen the rubber hose from the solenoid valve to the distributor tray leak too, check the rubber 1/4" hose.

Could be a couple of things. Transformer can be bad. Try connecting the two wires (usually wired red and white) from the transformer to terminal W and C on the circut board. Your bypassing the transformer and if installed a current sensing relay. The furnace transformer will/should handle the extra load. Turn on the furnace, if still not working, loosen the water supply line at the water solenoid on the humidifier, if water flows out then your supply valve isn't clogged, if no water then try screwing in the needle on the supply valve all the way in then back out. If still no water then the valve is clogged. If all is good then it looks like the water solenoid is bad or wiring to valve/humidifier control. Don't find the controls bad that often. Have fun!

Sounds like water has got into the electrics!

Be careful with this one!

kwh is kilowatt hours. it is a function of the electric meter to take the amperes and the voltage and multiply them together to give total watts. this figure is again multiplied by one thousand to get killowatts. a killowatt hr is 1000 watts times 60 minutes.

Humidifiers are made from a very durable heat resistant plastic. If it melted or warped you have a serious overheating problem. That plenum should not get over 140 to 155 degrees. If this furnace is running to hot it could stress and crack your heat exchanger. Install a good carbon monoxide detector in your home!!!! Check your filters. Check your airflow. Make sure all registers in the house are open. Is your blower speed set high enough? If this furnace is operating to hot it is definitely worth the investment to have a pro look at it before you replace the humidifier.
Is this overheating problem new? Or was this something thar happened years ago and may have since been solved But you are just now noticing the heat damege that was caused.
Goog luck
HVAC Teacher

If you chose to install this with an auxilary transformer. Turn the main power off to the furnace. Mount the transformer on the handi box to the furnace or inside the furnace cabinet. Wire the primary wires from the transformer to the main power coming into the furnace. Connect black to black and white to white. Wire the secondary side of the transformer in "series" with a #50 relay, the humidistat, the solenoid valve and back to the transformer. Determine which wire powers the blower motor for the heating speed. Clamp the #50 relay to the wire.
Good luck
HVAC Teacher

Think of it this way. One side of the transformer can go straight to the solenoid valve on the humidifier. Then the wire from the other side of the trans. goes to the sail switch or humidistat either one. Then coming off of the other side of the sail switch or humidistat go to the sail humid that you didn't go to first. Coming off of the other side of that control go to the solenoid. The humidistat and sail switch both should be on the same line you are just splitting that side of the circuit. Then the other side goes straight to the solenoid. If that doesn't work then try wiring straight from the trans. to the solenoid just to see if the solenoid works.

it is best to use a seperate transformer for the hummidifier, but in some cases you can use the low voltage t-stat wire that runs your furnace, you will need to have one wire run to common, and the other to the heating side of your low voltage, normally its the red wire hooked to the w circuit of your terminal board, if you do decide to go with an extra transformer, make sure you you have it wired to bring on the humidifier only when the unit calls for heat, hope that helps

try this forum...there are wiring diagrams posted there:
http://forum.doityourself.com/humidifiers-dehumidifiers-130/

24v ac cyliniod on the water line, probably mineral deposits or just went bad, it gets its power from the terminal board on newer units have a humidifier output on them, check there to.

Hi AB, I am mr.grzz,
thanks for your questions, well first off there is no fixing the pressure switch, it will have to be replaced, you will need your model and serial number on the furnace, make of furnace, to order a new one from a parts supplier, fairly easy to replace.first make sure the power is off to the furnace, undo the two wire leads on it, then the two screws holding it in place, remove the one or two small hoses attached to it, if you remove it before you go to look for a part, that would be best, there is a rating on it, just follow these steps in reverse to put in place, hope that helped ya, thanks again, mr.grzz

if you just replace the unit and it is working, no your do not need the tranformer. The unit is getting power from the furnace. For reference though. The black and white wires are your 120 volts. Black hot, white common. the 2 screws are your 24 volts

http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/PackedLit/69-1105EF.pdf

These are the instructions