20 Most Recent Masterbuilt 20070411 30" Electric Smoker with Window Questions & Answers

Before trying any of the lengthy suggestions regarding repairs on Masterbuilt electric smokers, consider this. It APPEARS (based on testing, not reverse engineering) that Masterbuilt designed the controller on my unit (140S) to error out below a certain minimum temperature. If you are like me and have your smoker outside (as you should), but in sub freezing temperatures, you too may get this error. Just shoot the short temperature probe (on the back wall of the cabinet) with a hair dryer for a minute or two. Then plug back in for no error (assuming you do not have an actual wiring or probe failure). Just make sure to immediately start it heating before it drops too low again...

If this was by design, shame on Masterbuilt! If this was by error, shame on their engineers! If this behaviour is due to an intermittent problem with my unit, shame on me for not fully testing all possibilities once I found an easy fix...

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Nov 22, 2018

Contact Mastercraft directly to inquire.

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Dec 25, 2019

Try this site for a manual for your BBQ grill. If they do not have it, check with google.

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Dec 25, 2019

Fixya is unable to suggest sources for Masterbuilt parts.

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Jul 28, 2019

I am not clear how an electric smoker works but I am guessing there are two basic problems - one of design and the other of material specification.
I have dismantled many electric heaters of various sorts, lots made redundant because they were old-fashioned and expensive to run. Some of them were in excellent condition even though they were perhaps up to half a century old.

The remarkable thing about the design of these was how substantially over engineered they were. This was partly due to the fact when they were built a significant number of homes and offices were using direct current mains electricity, consequently the switches needed powerful springs to ensure a rapid connection and disconnection and the large contact area had a wiping action with a classic knife-switch design. Poor contacts from arcing generating additional heat was designed out. The switches were almost exclusively ceramic bodied.

The internal wiring was another point of interest. Where wire was used at all it was so heavy as to be practically rigid, probably an alloy of some description (possibly with nickel).
These were preformed into a shape where thermal expansion would be no problem and insulated with a woven asbestos sleeving; today's equivalent would be a woven ceramic. These "wires" would be terminated with an overly large and substantial screw and flat washer.

A significant number of heaters had no internal wiring and instead used flat metal strips, again insulated with heatproof sleeving.

Later heaters did use multistrand wiring but it wasn't copper - again it was probably an alloy and again covered with a woven insulation and even the terminals were rated for high temperature use.
Wire suitable for greater temperatures than 200 C and quite difficult to find but probably the best modification for your smoker would be a little over engineering and specifying wire capable of withstanding 450 C.
Check out the link to some wire wisdom...


Masterbuilt... | Answered on Jun 16, 2019

Fixya does not sell Masterbuilt parts.

Masterbuilt... | Answered on May 30, 2019

1 means the digital thermometer is too cold. Try hitting it with a hair dryer before starting the smoker. Not sure about 4.

Masterbuilt... | Answered on May 02, 2019

Take it to someone that does Soda Blasting.


Don't worry about it!

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Apr 30, 2019

You have to hold it down long enough for the safety thermocouple to heat up. If you hold it down for a slow count to ten and it still shuts off, then the thermocouple needs to be changed.

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Apr 23, 2019

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