first install the RED & BLACK conductors on the cord to the L1 & L2 terminals or the 2 outer terminals on the 3 position terminal strip on the dryer,next take the WHITE ( NEUTRAL) wire on the cord connect it to the "N" terminal on the dryer terminal strip usually located between the 2 phase wires RED & BLACK so the terminal strip will be(RED-WHITE-BLACK) red & black can go on either outer terminal as they are not polarity sensitive due to the A.C. current, then the GREEN on the power cord goes to any metallic portion on the dryer case
First thing you have to do is pop the top up using a paint scraper or something thin enough you can slide in between the top and the front of the machine, There is a clip on each side that has to be pressed in that releases the top so it can come up. Once that is done then you'll be able to handle the rest. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3
If you are having dryer problems and you cannot even get the thing to start, then you might want to start going through this check list of possibilities. There are a number of things that can cause your dryer to not run.
A couple of the most common problems are the thermal fuse has blown or the door switch is not operating properly. On many dryers if the thermal fuse blows, the dryer will not run at all. This fuse can be checked with an ohm meter. It should show continuity if it is okay. If there is no continuity then you need to replace it and also find out what else failed. This is a safety device that usually blows because something else allowed the dryer to get too hot. It is usually located in the back of the dryer, on the blower housing. Some are oval in shape and others are rectangular, usually with two wires attached.
A defective door switch or a bent door switch lever can also cause you to have problems. If the lever is broken or bent it will not activate the switch. If the switch is broken, this also will not allow the dryer to be started.
The push (or turn) to start switch can go bad, but is unlikely. To check this, hold it in or turn it and then check to make sure you have continuity with an ohm meter.
If the dryer starts and then stops when the switch is released check the control board or the ?even heat? control on some model dryers. Some dryers have a belt break switch that can fail or your belt may be way loose or broken.
Check for burn marks or burnt wires at the terminal block on your dryer, poor connections can cause all kinds of problems. Also poor connections can cause fires.
A bad power cord also falls into this same category.
Of course, always check that you have the proper voltage to the outlet that you are plugging into.
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley, or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place. Note: This method works for most front loading machines. Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections. Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid. Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips. Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame. Move the door and front of machine forward to remove. This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum. Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
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First it may not just be them. You need to check all the rollers also. Turn off the power or unplug. Take off the front panels.Then the front bulkhead. pull belt off motor then slide drum out. The drum glide will be 2 plastuc strips on the front bulkhead. The rollors wil be on the back bulkhead. Give them a spin if they don't spin freely replace both cause you don't want to do this again in a short amount of time. To take off those rollers you will need a set of lockring pliers. Also check the Idler pulley that puts tension on the belt for wear.
There are only two things that I can think of, both related. 1. The drum is turning with difficulty. 2. The drum is dropped down in the cabinet letting the belt be loose. Open the dryer door and feel around the opening just inside the opening. Feel for the felt seal. Is the gap even top and bottom? My guess it's not. If not, he top part which is the support for the front of the drum is worn out, letting the drum tip down and loosen the belt. Check the rear bearing. With the belt loose, pull up on the back end of the drum. Does it move up and down in the bearing. If it does the rear bearing needs replaced. Both are simple to do.
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Jul 21, 2017 - The way it works is that power from the heater goes to the motor so that the heater can't heat unless the motor is running.
1 answer · Top answer: The buzzer is not actually controlled by the timer. It's controlled by the centrifugal switch ...
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