The F-26 error refers to the motor drive system, you will need a multimeter to diagnose the problem. Your start switch, belt switch and door switch. Check the belt first. the idler pulley could have gone bad and the belt slipped off or broke. try the door switch button by pushing it in and listening for it to click. Thank youKurt
If it is a timing cam, then it will be motor driven, a bit like the turntable in a microwave.
Check the motor is running as it should. That clunk you heard may have been the motors gearbox falling to bits.
It sounds like there may be an issue with the motor or the motor switch. The thump sound you heard could be the motor attempting to start but not being able to, which can also explain why the drum won't spin. It could be a problem with the wiring, capacitor, or the motor itself. You may want to check the wiring to ensure there are no loose or damaged connections. If the wiring appears to be in good condition, it may be best to call a professional technician to inspect and repair the dryer.
If your Whirlpool LTE6234DQ3 dryer is not drying clothes properly on the automatic/permanent press cycle, there are a few parts that may be causing the issue:
Moisture Sensor: The dryer's moisture sensor detects the level of moisture in the clothes and adjusts the drying time accordingly. If the sensor is dirty or faulty, it may not be able to accurately detect the moisture level, resulting in clothes not drying properly. Try cleaning the sensor with a soft cloth and see if that resolves the issue.
Thermostat: The dryer's thermostat regulates the temperature inside the drum. If the thermostat is faulty, it may not be able to regulate the temperature properly, leading to clothes not drying properly. A multimeter can be used to test the thermostat for continuity.
Heating Element: The heating element is responsible for generating heat in the dryer. If the element is faulty, the dryer may not be able to generate enough heat to properly dry clothes. A multimeter can be used to test the heating element for continuity.
Ventilation: Poor ventilation can also lead to clothes not drying properly. Make sure the dryer's venting system is clean and free of blockages.
It is recommended to have a professional technician inspect and diagnose the issue if you are not comfortable with checking and replacing these parts yourself.
The orange glow is the heating element. The smell is the Phenolic Resin in the circuit boards. My dad worked for 20 years at the factory where the board material was made. It has a distinctive fishy smell. It should all settle down. Just make sure the vent pipe is as short as possible, there are no kinks and that the flap on the outside wall opens properly. There are three temperature safety devices in all dryers, thermostat, high limit thermostat and thermal cut out.
The breakers could had tripped or there could be a fuse that has blown on your dryer or the start switch or the door switch is bad or the motor is not working for the dryer.You will have to call a repair person to see what the problem is with the dryer.
The capacity of the Whirlpool Duet GHW9300PW4 front-loading washing machine is approximately 4.3 cubic feet. This is a standard capacity for a front-loading washing machine, and it should be sufficient for most households.
It is always a good idea to refer to the manufacturer's specifications or the manual for your specific model of washing machine to get the most accurate information on capacity and other features.
I hope this information is helpful. Let me know if you have any other questions or if there is anything else I can assist with.
Hi,
please power cycle your dryer and check for the error again. Ensure that your the lint has been cleaned out of your dryer before checking for the error again. If still having issues, please check any initial document that has tips/trouble section to help overcome that specific error.
Thank you.
That is annoying and it happened to me on a GE Debra. Pull the oven out and you should see a small panel where the rear of the element is. Remove it, normally just 2 screws. There will also be fibreglass insulation, but just move it to one side.
I would not be surprised if there's a loose bit of steel somewhere near the heater element. Current in the heater generates an alternating magnetic field that could act on the loose steel.
A more likely possibility is that you have a loose contact on the heater element, and what you hear as rattling is actually sparking. This is fairly common, and can cause severe heat damage to the insulation on the wiring going to the heater element. I've seen the terminals on the heater burned off by the arcing. Check that out ASAP. If you get it soon enough, you may be able to fix the problem by cleaning up the male terminal on the heater and (if the wiring is still good), cleaning and slightly tightening the grip on the female terminal. If the wire insulation is damaged, trim the wire back to undamaged insulation and crimp on a new high-temperature rated terminal.
