20 Most Recent Whirlpool Inglis IP8200 Dryer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

It is a simple process. Just use the same gauge wire and a spade to connect to the thermostat.

Hi gllippensSounds like you have a faulty timer, replace your timer and this should solve your problem.When replacing the timer, be sure to only remove and replace one wire at a time to not get confused.Please rate meBud

1) remove filter2) remove 2 screw from top of filter housing3) pop the top4) remove front panel5) remove drum and clean the dryer6) oil the rollers7) oil the idler8) place drum back with belt9) Insert idler in floor 10) install the belt by passing it through the idler and looping it onto the motor. Turn the drum a few rounds to make sure the belt is not twisted then re install the front.Here is me in my movie I made that shows how: If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

You must have a gas dryer. Assuming it is a gas dryer, the ignitor is working because she glows. the flame sensor is also working because the ignitor shuts down. The only other thing in the assembly is the solenoids which tend to work properly but short and die when warm, then when cool will work some more much later. very difficult to diagnose. Replace the solenoids and party on Amigo. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

is the blower wheel turning freely and all the time,if not replace it,they do strip out on the motor shaft,if the air is surging then if its not the wheel,then it still has to have a restriction somewhere else

Take a look at this video to troubleshoot your no heat problem.

Make sure you have 240 going into the dryer. If one side of the breaker is tripped it is posible for the dryer to run because the motor runs on 120 volts ac. The heat uses 240 volts. Next check the heavy red wire coming out of the timer. Remove it from the timer and attach a lead from an ohm meter to that leg on the timer. See if you can get a reading from any other leg on that timer. Move the dil to various spots on the timer and keep checking for continuity. If you cannot get a reading from that terminal to any other terminal on the dryer then you have a bad timer.I did a few homemade movies today and posted them on my youtube channel:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbez7kjzNic&list=UUKBjalPycKRmo4Mz9vRsydg&index=3&feature=plcphttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoVmPvUG_7o&list=UUKBjalPycKRmo4Mz9vRsydg&index=2&feature=plcp If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

There is nothing to worry about, as long as it is heating it will be fine, The heater element is just a big resistor and will always get hotter in the middle so the color of it will vary. If you can see it on or not depends on a lot of variables, The thickness of the metal, temperature setting, supply voltage, element resistance.

The door swtch is a known weak point in the Whirlpool Inglis.

The Whirlpool Inglis has had a lot of problems with the door switch. Which would keep the unit from starting.

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

If you have already cleaned the vent then the problem is with the Thermal fuse. When the thermal fuse goes bad it cannot be reset and replacing it is recommended repair. It is located on the blower wheel housing inside the rear panel to the exhaust duct. You can test it for continuity before replacing. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

broken belt,that's what spins the drum

most likely you have a broken belt

did you remove the metal duct to the left of the t-stat and thermal fuse?usually this gets filled with lint and will take out either the thermal fuse or the high limit,pull it off and clean it,also if the vent line is long,you can stick a leaf blower into the end of it and blow it out.most problems i find in dryers is from lint buildup.

Well if you have this:or this:Then yer fuse is gonna melt and kill the door switch circuit. It will be just as if the door was open.Clever ain't it?The fuse and dryer heat control klixon sit on the blower housing:I recently cleaned up 2 diff styles of dryers made by wp:2 wheel model 4 wheel modelMore here If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

You want to do a few things to correct this. First make sure your air flow is good. then replace the cycling thermostat. That stat is mounted on the blower housing right next to the fuse:



I recently worked on a dryer that was doing this exact thing and I replaced the control thermostat.
My friend Larry brought it by because it was overheating and he had already changed the fuse once.
I always see the tough or the strange. LOL. Anyway I took the dryer completely apart and cleaned it up real good. Replaced the fuse and observed the dryer with the back off. I watched the heating element and it just stayed on way too long. Normally you can hear the control clicking and observ the element coming on and off. The cycling thermostat has 4 wires. 2 small wires and 2 large wires. The large wires carry the current to the heater element. The 2 small wires are use to warm up the klixon so that it will shut down even faster for knits and perma press items. So what goes wrong? The bimetal inside the control simply gets fatigued and don't shut down no more. The dryer overheats and the fuse blows.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

If the belt is still around the drum you may be able to reach in and wrap it around the motor pulley making suren that it also is on the spring tentioner. good luck