20 Most Recent Kenmore HE5 Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

I found this F:50 - Water Valve Failure F:50 flashes if no voltage is detected at the water valve relay. ? Check that the wires are plugged in on the valve and at the relay on the electronic control. This fault code appears ONLY when in the Diagnostic Test Mode. and then the OP said Well the thermal fuse and the thermistor were both bad, replaced and the dryer is working fine. Thanks for the help Jeff.... https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+HE5+steam+dryer%2C+error+F50 ..

YOU MAY WANT TO TEST YOUR DOOR SWITCH WITH AMULTI METER ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket.Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater. Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?) Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually)Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor. GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

If this is not a joke, then PLEASE follow 2 basic tips when repairing or attempting to repair anything. First take several good sharp high rez images of everything you are going to be working on BEFORE you do anything and as you are taking things off. Do a simple edit on each image by placing a number or letter next to each screw or terminal or anything else you may be removing and/or replacing in the original images. Then using boxes, labels, small cups, an egg carton, or similar, place each screw or part as you remove it into a separate spot labeled as you did in the images. I have been tinkering around with just about everything for more years than I like to think about, but I still use this method when I am working on something new for the first time. Specifically the door is obviously not closing perfectly and you "screwed up" if you have screws or any parts left over. The mechanic in "Doc Hollywood" always had a bag of parts left over if you have ever seen that sappy movie. You could just take it all apart again and look for some holes that need screws but don't have them and experiment until you get all correct. If this is your model then you can see a complete parts diagram here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/11047701800/0583/0153200.html Each of the parts including screws will be labeled and have a part number which you can look up. If this is not your model, just enter your model number in the search box and find what you need. If you can't tell which screw goes where by looking at the images of each, then you will have to do a google search on the part number and find out exactly what size it is.

CHECKS UR THERMOSTATS AND UR VENT LINE FOR CLOGGING. MY GUESS UR CYCLING THERMOSTAT OR THERMISTOR

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs

The error code f01 indicates the primary control board failure. Before you replace that board I suggest that you unplug the dryer for 2 minutes then see if the error come back. If it does replace the board part number W10110641.

here are some results I found on youtube one might help you see how it's done http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Kenmore+HE5+Electric+Dryer+Replace+the+heating+element

IF you can hear the motor start then the belt has broken or come off. The belt can be accessed by removing the bottom panel under the door.