Amana NGD7200TW Gas Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Put a construction level on top of dryer, use a 3/8 '' wrench to adjust the bottom feet as needed, to bring the level bubble to the middle.

Thermistor is bad. Call the Company, they should send you a new one. 1-800-555-1212, toll free directory for Company phone numbers.

Bearings worn.

Ist regular dryer or front loader?

Dryers are pretty simple when it comes to shutting down. It is either over heating or out of balance from a bad belt. I would start but taking off the vent and doing a thorough cleaning of the entire air path and vent coming off the back of the dryer.

Not my expertise, but check exhaust vent, making sure it is not clogged, then contact manufacturer for probable causes, maybe burner nozzle is clogged, or gas valve is not functioning properly. Burner nozzle would be first place to start. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/frankie_091f536560a54e12

Amana? Huh, I thought they only made Frigerators!? OK, You have to locate the Four heat sensors on your dryer and run a voltage meter through them. You put the meter on just the volume icon so that when you touch the two leads it makes Contact and emits a sound. That means it is a good circut. You have to test each one of these sensors to see which one is bad. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_b77d19396bfe2249

You probably have a bad sensor that tells the gas to stay on after you have hit the selection of your dry time fairly not to expensive contact sears parts

Perhaps something as simple as cleaning the sensor strips inside the dryer so that moisture can be detected better by the control would help. That is what I would try. The sensors are metal strips below the filter inside the dryer. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Some basic helpful instructions below. Really not much to it. Convert the regulator and replace the orifice. Basic instructions should come with the kit if purchased for that specific brand and model.In my opinion, always best to buy the conversion kit at a local appliance parts store to be sure of getting all the required parts with specific instructions for the brand and model.Basic Step By Step Instructions:First access the burner compartment. Usually a small access door in the lower right hand or left hand corner on some brands or models. Remove access panel.On some brands and/or models the entire front panel must be removed. Look for screws in the door frame and/or at the base of the front panel. May have screws in both locations on some machines.Some brands and/or models the top lid must first be lifted up wards. On many of these machines there will be no screws in the door frame. Usually only two screws are the base of the machine. Some no screws anywhere external. In this case, if there are two screws at the base remove them.Then insert a thin blade or old credit card between the top lid and front panel about two or three inches in wards from each corner. Push in wards to release the clips while lifting up wards on the top lid. Each clip can be released separately or both at once.Once the front panel is removed or access door is opened, look to the right of the gas control valve. There will be a tiny gas shut off valve on the gas supply pipe. Turn that tiny lever so it is across the pipe. Doing so turns off the gas to the control valve.Than remove the wire quick disconnects from the solenoids on top of the gas valve. Than loosen and remove the hex nut on the control valve to separate the gas supply pipe from the control.FYI:That hex nut is reverse threaded. Which means the hex nut turns opposite (counter clock wise) to loosen it and clockwise to tighten it. Use a backup wrench to hold the pipe while turning that nut counter clock wise.Once the pipe is removed, there will be two or more sheet metal screws holding down the plate the control is mounted onto. Remove those screws. Than carefully remove the burner out enough to get to the wires attached to the flame sensor, which is attached to the burners shroud cover. Remove that wire quick disconnect also.Than remove the entire burner as an assembly. Remove the brass or bronze orifice in the burners nozzle. Replace the orifice with an LP or NAT orifice to match the BTU rating of the burner.BTU rating is on the manufacturers plate with the model and serial numbers, usually located in the door frame. Most dryers are either 18,000 or 22,000 Btu's. Install an LP or NAT orifice to match the rating.Than convert the built into the gas valve regulator. By removing the cap on top of the tower and turning it over and reinstalling it. Cap should be marked "N" or "NAT" for natural gas and "L" or "LP" for propane.Turning the towers cap over converts the regulator. Side of the cap facing you indicates the fuel type it is set for. Not all regulators are convertible in this manner. Check with any local appliance parts store.Some gas control valves do not have regulators that are convertible while some have a set screw to turn to another position or a lever to turn to another position. Several variables are possible.Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and conversion parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks when reconnecting any of a gas part.Use the reply button to add additional information or ask additional questions. Doing so will automatically move your question to the top of the forums list of questions.DRYER SERVICE TIP:It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.

need more info

replace the gas valve coils on the top of the gas valve,they get weak and can no longer hold the valve open,then they cool and repeat the same condition,they may appear warm after shutting off,remove 2 screws off bracket holding them on and unplug each coils harness and replace coils,there are plastic pins for getting them in the right position,so its hard to reverse them

ON the rear of the top, there should be 2 screws, remove them and slide the top back about 1/2 " and lift the top off.

if you rapped the belt around the pulley and it's not tight enough then you popped the spring off of the pulley,you'll have to pull the drum again so you can see where the spring connects to the pulley,here's the sears site,put your model number in,click on cabinet parts and you'll see number 15 tention spring,this has to be connected to the pulley arm.http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Amana-Parts/Dryer-Parts/Model-NGD7200TW10/1268/0151200/W0712024/00002?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

Hi

TS/T5 error means that the dryer thermister is either shorted or open. If you have already cleaned the lint filter then it is the thermister that is located inside the rear panel to the exhaust duct that is bad and should be replaced. If you want you can test this part for continuity and if bad replace it, as it cannot be reset. If thermister is fine then test the thermostat, thermal fuse located near thermister for continuity. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

There are 5 possible causes for this. Click here for the Service Manuals=> Trouble Shooting Guide and click here=> NGD7200TW Parts List and click here for your user manual=>NGD7200TW User Manual
For any Whirlpool Related manuals please contact me=> HERE Need Adobe Reader? Click Here

I will be here should you have other questions, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks.
If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the
wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed
component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame.
Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed.
If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause
heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the
thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape
or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged
with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's
plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

if your igniter turns on and off and you got the gas supply on then your coils in the gas valve are bad.