20 Most Recent Black & Decker 1000w Power Inverter - Page 6 Questions & Answers


you need a card reader that you plug into usb port of computer then put 64 Gb microSd into reader device. go to file explorer find drive thAt represents drive. possibly D: or E: right click on drive icon with mouse then move mouse to format about half way down second item down is shown as file type change this to fat32 click click on start at bottom of format window

Electronics -... | Answered on Dec 31, 2018


Power surges usually fry a lot of components before the fuse blows. Sometimes the fuse never blows, but the damage is done. You can change the fuse if it's blown, but I don't think that will fix anything.

Electronics -... | Answered on Dec 29, 2018

Tip

Startup/Shutdown Procedure for SILCON 10— 8OKVA


Startup:

1. Switch on the mains power supply Display shows - System type and kva
2. Wait about 10 seconds Display shows - Stop charge DC caps yes
3. Press C on the keyboard Display shows - Start charge DC caps yes
4. Press # on the keyboard Display shows - Data Stored
5. Wait about 1 second Display shows - Start charge DC caps yes
6. Wait about 1 minute Display shows - Insert DC fuse or close MCB
7. a) Systems with internal batteries DP310/340 Display shows - System Off
insert fuses F020 and F021
b)Systems with external batteries. Close battery MCB's You have a 30 second window to attach the battery.
8.Press the "Green On" pushbutton Display shows - Normal Operation load xx%

Shutdown:

1. Press # to enter parameter stack
2. Press up or down until Display shows - Bypass Operation : No
3. Press C until Display shows - Bypass Operation : Yes
4. Press # to store
5. Press drop down arrow (enter key) to exit Display shows - Bypass Operation load %
6. You can now open the battery breakers

For more procedure go HERE

on Dec 20, 2018 | Electronics - Others


Ya, the internal protection wants to protect your XTAR from "shorts"... that low voltage fools the regulators. I have one just like yours and mine can't be 'tricked' into charging no matter how many times I connect and reconnect. If you bypass the regulators you may cook your batteries ~ if you forget about them in the charger; so "smart chargers" are your best bet,
After my XTAR I purchased a POWEREX and it was much better, but failed too after just 4 months. Sadly the seller is out of business. Now I'm using a really crummy charger I really don't trust...

Electronics -... | Answered on Dec 20, 2018


What every you take out of the battery you need to put back in (plus the losses), the amount of watts you need is proportional to the AC load the equation I use is array size in watts X peak sun hours divided by 2 or .5 the .5 is the losses in the system also your inverter should be matched to the batteries as a rule you should not draw anymore than 100 amps from the battery .

Electronics -... | Answered on Nov 09, 2018


Try using google translate. Its on the internet. German to English.

Electronics -... | Answered on Oct 30, 2018


I sssume you mean a Microsoft Surface Pro 2. If so, follow the troubleshooting steps in the link below (meant for an external hard drive, but same principles apply).

https://www.lovemysurface.net/usb-external-drive-not-recognized-surface-troubleshoot/

Electronics -... | Answered on Oct 29, 2018


Find the exact model number and do a search for that and manual in google. Follow the instructions in the manual.

Electronics -... | Answered on Oct 20, 2018


Good day Sheila.
"D:" is often the optical drive (CD or DVD reader / writer).
If so there may be a disk in the drive which is continuously being re-read, especially if the disk has corrupt data.
Eject your CD / DVD and reboot the computer.

Electronics -... | Answered on Oct 05, 2018


You're running more than the specified power. The refrigerator is an inductive load, which means the power factor Pf will be less than one. Consequently, the power draw from the inverter is Volts x Amps / Pf. Also, if the inverter voltage is less tan 120V, the refrigerator's compressor and fan motors will draw more current than the nominal rating. How much more depends on the motor design. The harmonics from the inverter (it has anon-sinusoidal input) may increase energy loss in the motors, especially if there is a fan with a shaded pole motor (common in refrigerators). The bottom line is that you are probably drawing at least 420 Watts from an inverter rated for 410 Watts. It's very close to shutting down on you, and may cause premature failure in the refrigerator.
I recommend getting an inverter with at least 450 Watt capacity, preferably with a true sinusoidal output, or harmonic content less than 5% under full load..

Electronics -... | Answered on Oct 01, 2018


The reasons for the generator dose not generate electricity are as follows:
1, the magnetic pole of the generator loses magnetism;
2, the excitation circuit component is damaged or the circuit is broken, short circuit or grounding phenomenon;
3, the exciter brush has bad contact with commutator or the brush frame pressure is insufficient;
4, wrong connection of excitation winding, opposite polarity;
5, poor contact between generator brush and sliding ring, or insufficient brush pressure;
6, broken circuit of generator stator winding or rotor winding;
7, loosening of generator lead wire or poor contact between switch and wire; Fuses, etc.

Electronics -... | Answered on Sep 28, 2018


Naturally due to the size of solar chargers they are going to be a little heavier than a regular charger, but keep in mind that solar chargers are able to charge you device so long as the sun is up.

Electronics -... | Answered on Jul 29, 2018

Tip

TIP: Brief guide to visual electronic fault-finding:


First, IS the appliance plugged in?
IS it switched on?
If YES to above, disconnect ALL power and visually check PCB components for obvious damage or shorts:

PCB: is the Printed Circuit Board burnt?
This indicates that a nearby component has overheated, possibly due to a short-circuit or overload.

PCB traces: are any traces (copper tracks) damaged / blown open?
Traces, the thin copper track 'wires' of the board, can be damaged by shorts / overload / overvoltage or rough handling of component.

Capacitors: are any caps bulging at top more than others, leaking from ends?
This indicates a failed capacitor.
Renew with exact same Farads value and minimum working voltage rating.

Resistors: are any burnt or blown (discolored, holes/ gaps on body)?
Resistors can work as voltage dividers, current limiters, feedback devices or in filters.
All have either screen-printed Ohms values or color-band coding of same.
As the connected 'parallel' circuit can affect a resistance reading, unsolder one leg only then test ohms.

Semiconductors:
Transistors and IC's: Although usually not visible damage, these can fail internally.
They perform many functions, including amplification signal generation and switching.
A very hot transistor / Integrated Circuit "chip" may spell trouble, as heat from overdriving / overloading / shorts may cause the internal junction to fail.
Some are electro-static discharge (ESD) sensitive.
Always renew with same component or, in some cases, an equivalent device may work.

Fuse: As most people are aware, a fuse protects the connected circuit (load) from overload, or over-current in case of shorts, too many devices, etc.
When current limit (Amps) is exceeded, the fuse blows, disconnecting the supply.
A blown glass fuse may have black soot-marks, or loose / blown fuse wire 'floating'.
Besides glass cartridge fuses, there are also resttable PTC types, which look like a disc capacitor, but usually blue.
PTC's open when overloaded, and may take a long time to reset themself, (if at all).

Dirty / oxidized connectors or pads:
May cause erratic and intermittent failures, where signal does not pass through.
Common on "pad" type connectors, as with a ribbon-type 'data' belts used for displays, keypads, etc.
Tactile buttons, common on keyboards, keypads and remote controllers, are also prone to contamination.
Molex plugs & IDC header pins can also become oxidized.
Usually, a wipe with a soft cloth or pencil eraser does the trick.
Surgical spirits or Servisol (contact cleaner) can remove oils / oxidization.

Bent pins: IC's and header connectors may have a broken or bent pin, rendering that pin non-functional.
Pull connector plug out in a straight direction, without twisting, then check all pins are good, before re-inserting any connectors.
Some connectors use a hook / catch system to ensure firm grip.
A small screwdriver, thumbnail or squeeze can unhook the various types.

Rectifier Diodes: usually in the power supply section, maybe individual diodes or a bridge rectifier, (with 4 internal diodes).
This converts AC voltage to DC.
Failure of any diode will disable the appliance.

Potentiometer: is the knob loose, crackling or erratic when touched / moved?
What people sometimes call a 'volume knob', the 'Pot' is actually a variable resistor, consisting of a resistance track, usually carbon, with a center wiper contact.
Often wired as a 'potential divider', the (common) wiper adjusts the resistance inversely between 2 outer terminals.
For example, the wiper may be signal in, the 'minimum' terminal grounded, and 'maximum' terminal out to amplifier.
If wiper or track are worn, signal can be temporarily lost.

LED: is your indication / display LED not working?
Outline of an LED:
As a Light Emitting Diode is polarized, the voltage to it must never be reversed.
This is why the negative cathode has a flat spot on the flange, and positive anode is bevelled.
The current must not exceed the forward current 'If' and voltage through diode must not exceed forward voltage 'Vf' rating.
That is why most LED's have a small 'current-limiting' resistor in series, connected to one of the legs.
A quick & simple single-color LED test using a single 1.5 volt cell and 2 thin insulated wires:
As LED Vf usually begins at 2V-2.2V, we can safely use a singe 1.5V cell without a resistor.
Hold negative wire to cathode side, either on the LED or soldered point on same track.
Briefly touch the positive wire to the anode side, watching for a flash or glow.
Some 2-3 lead LED's may be bi-color, tri-color, or the 4-lead RGB type.
Others may use a higher operating Vf, such as 3V for U/B or 8-12VDC for 'Jumbo' LED's.

Infra-Red Remote LED's: Remote or motor-gate beam suspect? Not sure if working?
Humans are unable to see Infra-Red wavelengths.
The image sensors of most digital cameras, webcams, security cameras, cellphones are sensitive to the IR radiation emitted by the IR-LED at front.
Point your remote at one of these, and watch screen for whitish-purple flashes / pulses of light from the LED.
The pulses are modulated digital data being sent from remote, or for a broken-beam detector, just 'active'.
Also check batteries, and for universals, that pairing is correctly done.
Thassall!! :)

on Jul 15, 2018 | Electronics - Others


Check the power supply look for anything that might be burnt or damaged.

Electronics -... | Answered on Jul 08, 2018


Manualslib.com might possibly have the manual, if your'e lucky.
Visit their site and type your model in the search box.

Electronics -... | Answered on Jul 05, 2018


Take it in to a Multichoice / DSTV agent with all the documentation for a checkup.
If your'e lucky, they will replace it if faulty.

Electronics -... | Answered on Jul 05, 2018

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