check that you are using chain bar oil and not engine oil as that is the main reason for excessive oil usage
make sure that there is the small restriction at the exit point
if that is missing , then that will be your problem
I have a Homelite XL and was having problems with rope pulling from difficult to unable to pull rope while trying to start saw. I removed the muffler, squirted some WD40 through the exhaust port ABOVE and BELOW the piston compression ring. Then pulled the rope about 20 times without spark plug to fully lubricate the piston and cylinder. Left it till the next day, pulled it through about 20 more times, put the spark plug back in,and it works well now. Guess it was just gummed-up a little and the lubrication freed it.
You can download then print your Homelite manual by going to www.homelite.com/service/product owners manuals the best way to do it is to right click on the material, left click save, put in in your Documents folder, then retrieve it to print if you actually have to hold paper. Good luck
Hello again Asher, I'm back. Let's just check a few things:Gas may be old and stale, this happens when you don't use machine for a long while. Empty old and put in new. Cap should have measurement.If this is a fuel/oil mixture machine, did you use straight gas? Not good if you did. This could damage your engine.Do you have spark? If not did you move OFF to ON switch?Did you put on choke and pull cord till engine almost starts?If it does this did you then put choke to 1/2 choke?If you get to this point and engine does start, let it warm shortly and put choke to open.If still no start it is possible that you have a carburator problem, and need a rebuild. Please let me know how you made out, GOOD LUCK.
Hi paulbonser... Set your point gap to .20 using a feeler gauge... You can also use a paper matchbook cover, it ia approx. .20 to set the gap on the points. Please take time tor rate me
Hi paintercy...
Your problem is with dirt/trash in your inlet valve of the carburetor allowing the fuel to continue running into the engine.
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible. Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor: Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor. Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces. That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor. Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank. Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws . When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference. Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb. Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle chainsaw with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting. If the chainsaw is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank. The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages. Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable. Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages. Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages. Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from. When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws. But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position. Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper. That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started. Note: The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm. That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end. Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation. The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position. Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem. Please take time to rate me thumbs up
Hi gjoun...
You will need "Chain and Bar" oil to lube the chain and bar. Special oil made just to lubricate the chain and bar as the chain is running.
For the engine you can use the low grade of gasoline...and 2 cycle oil.
Fuel mix...50 to 1 = 1pint of 2 cycle oil to 6 gallons of gasoline.
Please take time to rate me
Dolmar, Echo, Efco, Homelite, Husqvarna, Jonsered, Makita, Oleo-Mac, Red Max, Ryobi, Shindaiwa, Solo, Spear & Jackson, Stihl & Tanaka; all recommend 50:1 and have for a number of years. • 1 gallon of premium fuel to 2.6 ounces of quality 2-cycle oil. • 4 liters of premium fuel to 80 milliliters of quality 2-cycle oil.
dO tune -up.Here is a link : www.ehow.com/how_6971799_homelite-chainsaw-tuneup-instructions.html also visit www.homelite.com/ for more.If you need more help post back!Thumbs and testimonial are welcome!
It probably is not getting enough fuel. Check the filter in the tank. If it has been sitting with stale gass this filter plugs up.
Try running the engine with some choke. If this helps, try adjusting the carburetor high speed screw.
Home depot,lows any hardware store,call around first and if you mean bar oil 30 weight oil non detergent oil will work just fine.3 in one oil will burn the bar and chain because it's to light.Tighten chain so you can pull chain 1/8 inch from bottom of bar then pull spark plug cover off to the side and screw driver cross ways to pull chain to check for binding.Please use gloves for this.I have someone hold saw or sit on the motor after I sharpen the chain.Stay away from the end of the bar cause that's where kickbacks happen.Keep the saw off to the side of your body when cutting.One last thing when chain is sharp big chips,dull sawdust until you learn how to sharpen best let saw shop do it for you.
Thank You for choosing FixYa.com.......................Darryel
loosen up the bar nuts by the motor, this will allow the bar to slide, and you will be able to get chain back on. then to tighten pull the bar out away from motor and tighten bar nuts.
Either that season's gas dried in the
carburetor affecting it's operation or you are drawing air through a
fuel seal somewhere. Both are common with this model. Sometimes will
start from cold and run up to half speed until you take the choke
off. Then it just dies from not drawing gas. Status proved if it revs
up if sprayed with short blip of ether from 7" away at the moment
it dies. Do not try to keep it running on ether more than a minute.
Like pure gas, it'll burn up the engine or worst. Do not use ether if
the air is not moving. Ether may collect and explode.
