20 Most Recent Crate FlexWave FW15 Guitar Amp Combo, 15 Watt Single 8 Speaker Questions & Answers


You can try Loud Technologies @ 866-858-5832, [email protected]

They hooked me up with parts and schematic for my Crate G212XL.

Crate FlexWave... | Answered on Dec 04, 2012


Your amplifier is a solid-state rectified tube amplifier. This means that a tube is NOT used for the power supply. Why is this significant? Because most of the time you have the problem you are describing, it is because of the tube rectifier.
Since this amp does not have a tube rectifier, the problem is likely one or more of the tubes. I have seen in 95% of the amps I repaired that the tubes were the cause, and since the amp is so new, I would suspect tubes first.
Now the hard part: which tube? Without a tube tester, you will have to use the 'firewall' technique. You will need to get a bunch of replacement fuses, as you might go through a few untill you find the problem. Radio Shack is a great place for fuses (make sure they are SLOW BLOW type).
The problem is almost guarenteed to be the power tubes: they are a big failure mode in tube amps (the preamp tubes are not as likely the problem).

This is what I do at a customer site without a tube tester:
(1) Have either a KNOWN TO BE GOOD REPLACEMENT SET OF TUBES or a NEW SET OF TUBES.
(2) Have plenty of fuses.
(3) Start with power tubes: they cause most of these problems. Replace burned out fuse.
(4) Replace all 2 (or 4 in your case) with the good tubes.
(5) Turn on amp and play on it (30 minutes at various volumes and settings). Turn it on and off many times using the on/off procedure your amp requires (like using the standby switch on some models).

* if the amp plays and works, likely you had a bad power tube. If you are blowing fuses, the problem is either the power amp circuitry or the preamp tubes.

* Leave the good power tubes in before going on to the next step. Also: the minor difference in bias wont matter for what we are doing now: the bias being WAY out is almost never the cause.

(6) Check preamp tubes (easy to do, as this does not require us to poke around on the insides).
(7) Replace burned out fuse (atleast number two by this point).
(8) Replace all preamp tubes.
(9) Turn on and repeat step 5.

* Blowing fuses at this point means atleast two types of repairs needed: retention tube sockets or someone to look inside the amp. Either way, this is a serviceman repair (things I do). Since the amp is so new, take the warentee buyout and throw it back to where you got it. Crate is real good about dealing with these issues (if you are the only owner and it is within warantee).

If you need to contact warantee support, you can tell them you have had the amp re-tubed and the problem still persists (meaning they can brush you off with 'just get it retubed and then call us if there is problems'. This is like 'take two asprins and call me in the morning: 95% of all tube amp problems can be fixed by this (retube, not asprins).

If you have to do the warantee route, KEEP YOUR NEW TUBES. The preamp tubes are fine, but the power tubes may be damaged. Wait for what Crate tells you before you use them. This is if you are cheap. I would pitch all of the tubes and consider the 70 bucks as my cheap attempt to bet I am in the 95% solution number (tubes are the cause). Otherwise, the repair will cost shipping at a minumum. Dont you love it: tube amps are expensive and require someone with deep pockets to enjoy the tone. But what can we do: tubes DO sound better and when everything is working, they perform reasonably well.

Good luck on this!
-mike

Crate FlexWave... | Answered on Jan 27, 2012


Hi, blowing a fuse in an amplifier is a problem that most guitarists face at one time or another. If an amp won't turn on, or it turns on for a second, then makes a popping sound and turns off, the problem is usually a blown fuse. Though a blown fuse can be a hassle, especially during a performance, it does not have to put a stop to your musical enjoyment. With a spare fuse you can be back jamming to your favorite tunes in no time flat.

Things You'll Need

Fuse.

Instructions

Turn off the amplifier and unplug it from the wall.

Locate the fuse, which is usually found at the back of the amp. The fuse will look like a small black wheel sticking out of the amp with a number and the letter V next to it. For example, 9V.

Gently turn the fuse counter-clockwise to remove it from the amp.

Discard the old fuse.

Insert the new fuse into the empty fuse slot and turn it clockwise until it is firmly in place.

Plug in the amplifier; make sure the power switch is in the off position.

Turn the amplifier on to make sure the new fuse is working properly.



Hope it helped..

Crate FlexWave... | Answered on Jun 14, 2011


It is likely that there is a failure of one of the amps in the unit. It could be a cracked circuit board, bad solder, bad volume control, or a bad compnent in the power amp section for one side. HOWEVER something does NOT compute here as you can't connect more than one speaker to a 15 Watt Crate amp... Maybe you have two of these amps.

Crate FlexWave... | Answered on Jan 04, 2011


Witth an oscilloscope analyze the ripple voltage across C67, C70, C14, and C12. Pay close attention to the last two of these which are on +/- 15 volt lines.

The "chirp" when shutting down is LIKELY normal and would probably be from teh DSP effects unit as it goes down. The voltages go out of the operating range and the device essentially goes nuts for a second or so.

Crate FlexWave... | Answered on Sep 16, 2010


If you play this loud the amplifier MAY be going into a thermal pprotection area. It would be about as loud as a typical boombox when at safe levels.

If you need louder than that, you need a bigger unit.

If the volume always is strong after letting it rest and cool and then fades as you drive it hard, this is the probable cause.

Crate FlexWave... | Answered on Aug 17, 2010

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