20 Most Recent Jandy Laars Lite 2 Pool Heater 250,000 BTU / Natural Gas Questions & Answers

I would suspect that it is not the valve making the noise. I would bet it is the thermal expansion of the metal that you are hearing. Other than that, I have seen cases where there is a flow control valve, and depending on its operation, when it opens or closes on spring power it will over shoot and make a loud clicking noise as the clutch overshoots. This will usually only be about 2-4 clicks though, and around pool equipment I doubt you would hear much of it. I would bet more on the thermal expansion. Kind of like the clicking noise you will hear after you have parked your car and the engine is cooling down.

FL 1 normally means shorted temp sensor

this can be caused by a few different items. it can be a faulty/broken flow sensor, broken pressure switch, bad fireman switch. the best bet is to get a qualified pool heater technician to fix it properly. bypassing any of these safety devices is a bad idea

This issuesounds tricky. I recommend you call the Jandy technical support at 800-822-7933and they should be able to help determine what to do next. Ihope this helps.

Problem with the thermocoupler its not producing a minivolt of 250 plus that is needed to open the main gas valve

http://www.laarsman.co.uk

Miles

The fuse link is a device that will open when over heated. If the exhaust temp is to high it will open and is a one time device. It can not be reset it must be replaced with a high temp fuse link made for the exhaust location. It will have a red mark on it indicating high temp. Low gas pressure can cause a lean fuel condition that may cause the exhaust temp to rise enough to trip the link. I would also check for scale inside the heat exchanger. Scale inside the heat exchanger will not allow for proper heat transfer to the water, this will cause excess heat to be present in the exhaust. Proper water balance and flow are very important.

If you have checked the circuit breakers and they appear to be functioning properly, here are a few other things you can try:

1. Check the GFCI outlet: If the AquaLink RS is plugged into a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlet, make sure the outlet hasn't tripped. You can do this by pressing the "reset" button on the outlet.
2. Check the transformer: The AquaLink RS requires 24 volts AC power to operate. If the transformer that converts your home's AC power to the 24 volts required by the AquaLink RS is faulty, it can cause the system to fail. Use a multimeter to test the transformer to ensure it's supplying the proper voltage.
3. Check the power supply: If the transformer is supplying the proper voltage but the AquaLink RS is still not receiving power, the power supply board may be faulty. Check the power supply board for any obvious signs of damage, such as bulging or leaking capacitors.
4. Check the wiring: It's possible that a wire has become loose or disconnected, preventing the AquaLink RS from receiving power. Check all of the wiring connections to make sure they're secure and tight.

If you're still unable to get power to the AquaLink RS, it may be time to call a professional pool technician to diagnose and repair the issue.

1. Check the air sensor: The first step is to locate the air sensor and check for any visible issues. Make sure it is properly connected and not damaged.
2. Check the wiring: If the air sensor appears to be in good condition, the problem may be with the wiring. Check the wiring for any loose connections or damaged wires. If you find any issues, you may need to repair or replace the wiring.
3. Check the control board: The control board is responsible for managing the various functions of the pool heater. If the control board is malfunctioning, it can cause the air sensor to short out. You can check the control board by testing it with a multimeter. If you suspect the control board is the problem, you may need to replace it.
4. Check the air intake: If the air intake is blocked or restricted, it can cause the air sensor to short out. Make sure the air intake is clear and unobstructed.

go into system set up and turn on on remote

see if hooked up with 4 wire from heater to aqualink if so try checking wires for one loose or off if ok try to use the firemans swith to pins 1 and 2 then heater button will work

bad display board

replace water sensor that goes from board to header

check the air switch hose make sure not pinched or hole in it then if ok make sure fan running correct speed

check with your local dealer . we have no clue

WERE I YOU I WOULD ASK THE HEATER COMPANY OR THE JANDY