Top 20 Hayward SAND FILTER, PRO SERIES Questions & Answers

The spider gasket inside the 6-position valve is probably leaking. Take the model number of the valve to a local pool store and they can order a replacement. You will also need a special sealant to install the new gasket.

the trick is to start with the pump pulling from the main drain, you will see air pocket in the pumps basket (most cases) turn the valve back slowly towards the skimmer as soon as you see the air pocket disappear, You have the perfect blend between the two sources. and a happy pump. Jay the pool pump motor repair guy Longwood Florida

That sounds like the multiport. You need to make sure all the gaskets inside are in good shape and that all the screws holding the multiport together are tight. First start by taking the lid and handle off of the multiport, there is a lid gasket that may be in bad shape. If the gasket leaves black on your fingers, then that says the gasket is bad. Replace it and tighten the lid back down with the screws and bolts.

1) Make sure that you have thoroughly backwashed the sand. 2) Make sure your chemical balances are correct 3) Remove filter canister top valve and insure that it was properly seated on the filters canisters center pipe. 4) Remove all sand from the filter canister 4) Clean all components thoroughly 5) Check for cracked laterals or plumbing 6) Repair or replace any bad or missing components 7) Reassemble Tip: carefully use a rubber mallet to seat the canister valve by lightly tapping on and about the circumference of the valves seat. Hope this helps, https://www.oskopoolnspa.com

The spider gasket did not seat properly! Take it apart and try again. get the inside of the valve body completely dry, and make sure the grooves in which the gasket seats, are completely cleaned and free of any old sealant or gasket material. Then apply a little bit of Silicone sealant, not much, into that groove. Then reassemble. Do NOT turn pump on for at least 8 hours to provide time for the silicone to cure, then try it. Hopefully this helps you. Good Luck.

Check to make sure the ball in the inlet and the outlet valve has not moved. If it is a plastic type plumbing one the ball can actually fall out of the the housing. Personally I do not own a sand filter my pool came with a DE type.(6 of one a half dozen of the other). I would remove all the sand from the filter and see if the pump works as you think it should. After that it is a matter of figuring out the obstruction. Could be valves leaves, almost anything but it should be easy to locate.

Sand is cheap so replace it if you think that is the problem. i would be looking into water chemistry also. Take your samples of water to a reputable pool shop and let them test it. They will usually do it for free since most likely you will need chemicals to remedy the situation.

I assume the basket is part of the front of the motor/pump housing , if so it can possibly get hot enough to melt if motor is getting hot (overload)or pump impeller is run dry or is rubbing housing with an obstruction inside , also i caution folks out there that think they can use a pool pump for a hot tub /spa , as these pumps are made of special materials and have addnl clearances in there construction to pump hot water , not all pumps are marked for there max fluid temperature , ask mfg if not marked .

You could have a seal leaking in your pump, the lid could be loose, or possibly a drain plug on your pump. You may need to put a check valve on the suction line

The Hayward Pro Series Sand Filter uses an O-Ring on the stand pipe to separate water returning to the pool, after being filtered, from water coming into the filter from the pool. If this O-Ring is broken, missing or sufficiently worn, small particles of dirt and sand can by-pass the sand filter and return to the pool without being properly filtered by the sand filter. This can be especially evident just after backwash and rinsing of the sand filter bed. During this time water flows up through the sand bed, opposite the direction in normal operation. This forces the top-most material of the sand bed to dislodge and wash out of the filter to waste. It can also force fine particles to enter through a faulty O-Ring into the pool return stand pipe. Then, when returning the filter system to normal operating mode, those fine particles enter the pool through the water return piping and collect on the bottom of the pool -- mostly small sand particles but potentially filtered debris particles that were captured on top of the sand bed. To avoid this problem it's wise to replace this O-Ring every few years. And make sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the amount of sand to fill when replacing sand. It's important to keep the top of the sand bed at the correct level to insure proper filtering and minimize stray particles coming back into the return water.

Not sure what you mean?? A little more detailed information, even if you don't know proper terminology, some greater description will allow us (someone on this forum) to assist you. If you have a filter similar to the picture of the one above that accompanied this post, then there is NO cap! There is no cap that you can open or close. Can't tell for sure what it is you are referring to when you say "pressure cap"? Then you mention something about the Clamp? I will take a stab... Did you just remove the " MultiPort - Dial Valve" from the top of the filter? And now you are trying to reinstall it? And is it that you can not get the valve to go all the way down onto the filter tank? And the two flanges: the one on the valve is not meeting the one on the tank? And the "Clamp" just can't grab both of the flanges to tighten the valve to the tank? Is this your problem? If so: You have a problem!!! The plastic "Stand Pipe" from the bottom Lateral Assembly is sitting "Too High" and the valve has bottomed out on top of the stand pipe. Thus not allowing the valve to go down any more, leaving the gap you just can't close. What may have happened: when adding the sand to the tank, the following bags after the 1st, allowed the lateral assembly to rise and instead of sitting on the bottom of the plastic tank, it is now sitting on some sand, raising it? Even an Inch or so, will now create a situation where the Multiport filter valve will be too high and not allow the Sand Filter Multiport valve to seat properly. Fix = Remove the sand and start all over again. Remember: Very Important:

• Add water to the tank "First", just above the individual laterals
• Place a cup or tape or something/anything covering the opening in the stand pipe, so NO sand gets into the lateral assembly!

After the 1st 1/4 of the 1st bag is poured, stop and adjust the pipe - "BUT NOT LIFTING IT", to be centered with the hole. Good Luck

you have a leak in one of the intake unions make sure to use pool lube if those ok check pump top seal or chlorinator top keep checking youll find it if not need more info

That hole that you thread in your pressure gauge is 1/4" size. The pressure gauge is a 1/4" x 20 threads NC. So, the fix I would attempt is to drill out the hole to the next size up and re-tap new threads - I would go to the next commonly used size: 3/8". to do this: Obtain the proper drill bit size for a new 3/8" hole. That drill bit size will be a 37/64". Once you drill out the stripped hole to the next size opening, get your 3/8" Tap, and slowly & carefully start turning in a clockwise direction. Make one complete rotation, check to see if bites into the new hole, if not, then push into the hole a little bit harder, and try again. Once it bites, turn 1 more full turn and then backup a 1/2 turn. Continue a full turn, back up a 1/2 half turn. What this does, will break away the plastic fragments and will clean out the hole so it will not ruin the new cut threads. Once the tap is in about half way, thread the tap all the way out, and then turn the tap back in by hand. It should screw in easily, yet firm. Now you will need a reducing bushing. Threads on the outside of 3/8" and inside threads of 1/4". This is a reducer bushing commonly labeled 3/8" x 1/4" NPT also sometimes known as a Hex bushing 3/8"x1/4" NPT Use only 4 wraps of teflon tape wrapping in a "Counter" clockwise rotation, on both the busing and the new pressure gauge. Good Luck

yes if backwash is leaking plug it that will get you by until you fix it

The back pressure at which it's time to backwash a sand filter is about 6-8 psi above the baseline pressure of a clean filter. Just after following the procedure to backwash and rinse your filter, check the sand filter's back pressure at the time you return the pump and filter system back into filter mode. This is the baseline pressure of your clean filter. As the filter gathers particulates from the pool water, the back pressure will rise over time, as indicated on your pressure gauge. Once the pressure reaches 6-8 psi above the baseline, it's time to backwash. Some advice: Don't assume the baseline pressure will remain the same for your sand filter. The baseline pressure will change over time and when the sand media is replaced. Typicallly baseline pressure will go up slightly over a season due to captured particles that are difficult to backwash out. Use of a filter cleaner will help remove these captured particles. More advice: Even with the use of filter cleaners and proper backwashing, sand media will not last forever. The constant water flow and movement of particles in the sand over time shears the surface of each little sand grain. Like a river flowing over rocks, over time each sand grain surface is smoothed, and thus its effectiveness for capturing small particles is reduced with ongoing use. A typical rule of thumb is to replace the sand media +/- 5 years. Some pool owners do it more often, some less. It depends on how long your pool season is each year and how much debris the filter much extract from the pool water.

this is a sign that the spider gasket is damaged. this comes from turning the dial without depressing the handle first

you dont need a lot of pressure to backwash just make sure water is clean coming out then rinse for 30 sec then put back on filter do not turn valve while filter is running you will ruin multiport gasket

Either the tank canister has cracked, (probably from ice damage), or your drain cap is missing, loose or cracked.

Remove the 6 screws from around the valve assembly. Pay close attention to the current orientation of the valve assembly before removing. Lift the value assembly straight out and the spider gasket is on the bottom. This could be twisted a little which would also cause your back flush port to leak when positioned in the filter position. If twisted, just position back in alignment with the valve holes on the bottom of the valve assembly. If the gasket is worn or torn then just replace and place the valve assembly back in the valve housing and replace all 6 screws. If you still have problems with water not functioning based on the way you have the handle turned then it might be time to replace the entire valve assembly.